Sticky, chewy Chinese rice cakes are definitely a textural affair.  These Chinese gnocchi make a great base for many flavors – leeks with lamb, salted egg yolks with crab roe or simply in a clear soup.  This simple Shanghai-style stir-fry recipe, which I recreated from eating the nian gao that my friend Geraldine’s mom makes, is a truly satisfying comfort food.

Chef’s tip: Well, Mrs.Liu recommended the Korean-made rice cakes over the Chinese made ones since it doesn’t require parboiling or soaking.

Marinade:
4 pieces chicken thighs, boneless, skinless, trimmed of fat, thinly sliced
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1/2  Tablespoon shao xing wine
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 Tablespoon oil

Sauce:
4 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon shao xing wine
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 cup chicken broth (and more if needed)

3 Tablespoon canola oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
5 slices ginger, thinly julienned
1/2 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced
4 cups napa cabbage, stems and leaves separated, sliced into 1/2 inch strips
16 oz rice ovaletts (fresh, refrigerated ones, preferably Korean made), toss to separate
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
1 stalk green onions, green parts only, thinly sliced

1. Marinade chicken strips with soy sauce, oyster sauce, shao xing wine, sugar, cornstarch and oil for 20 minutes.
2. Mix sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
3. Heat a wok or a non stick pan over high heat.  Add half the oil, when hot, add garlic and ginger.  Saute for 30 seconds until fragrant.  Add marinated meat and onions and brown meat, about 2 minutes.  Push to the side of the wok.
4. Add napa cabbage stems and red bell pepper and saute until limp, about 2 minutes.    Push to the side of the wok.
5.  Add remaining oil, then add the rice cakes.  Drizzle in part of the sauce mixture, being careful to not soak the rice cakes.  Toss all wok ingredients together.  Add in cabbage leaves.  When the sauce has cooked off, add remaining sauce in parts, each time being careful not to soak the rice cakes.  Continuously stir fry until the rice cakes are tender, about 6 minutes.
6.  Drizzle in the sesame oil, and toss with green onions.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 4

Tags: Chinese, noodles, Shanghainese.

This summer, I welcomed the arrival of my twin boys.  In Chinese tradition (or rather, Malaysian Chinese tradition) there is a post natal resting period of 30-days which we refer to as the “confinement period” where the new mother rests and eats all sorts of food that serve to replenish the blood and energy lost at child birth and to nourish the body to take care of the newborn.  In true tradition speak, the foods removes “wind”, cools down the “heat” and cleanses the body of blood clots.  Most of the food is cooked with sesame oil and lots of ginger. For 30-days, the new mother is not supposed to go out or even take a shower (yeah, right!).  My mother cooked me some of these classic “confinement” foods, which I think is absolutely delicious; baby or not.  Here is her recipe. Some folks may not subscribe to having that “much” wine while breastfeeding, I hope the simmering will burn off the alcohol.

Chef’s tip: Traditionally the expectant mother will make her own rice wine aka moonshine by soaking some of the special yeast with cooked glutinous rice and some wine.  I just used Japanese sake.

1 cup dried wood ear fungus, soaked, trimmed, cut into strips
2 Tablespoons sesame oil
1 hand ginger, peeled, and cut into thin juliennes
4 pieces of chicken thigh, boneless, skinless and trimmed of all fat
3 cups rice wine
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1.  Soak the wood ear fungus till tender.  Trim off hard stems and cut into strips.
2. In a wok or a heavy bottom saucepan, heat sesame oil on medium heat.  Add ginger, saute for 1 minute until fragrant.
3. Add chicken pieces and brown chicken, about 3 minutes.
4. Add wine and bring to boil.  Add salt.  Turn heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.

Serves: ahem, 1 new mom

Tags: Cantonese, confinement foods.

This is my family’s staple dish.  A simple soy sauce braised chicken flavored with ginger and wine.  It tastes better if eaten the next day, so make a whole big pot of it.

In Malaysia, the dark soy sauce has caramel in it, making it thicker, sweeter with a blackstrap molasses-like smoky flavor.  We call it “hak you” literally translated to “black oil”.  My mom puts a dash of this black magic into almost all her dishes.   It’s also an excellent condiment with hard boiled eggs, fried Chinese sausage, cold tofu, etc.  You get it – we put it on everything.  I also remember eating hot steaming white rice tossed with a tab of butter or a tablespoon of pork lard (crunchies included) and the hak you, and when money was tight, we’d throw in a raw egg into the hot rice and call it a meal.

Chef’s tip: It’s all about the humble “hak you” dark soy sauce!  If you can’t find it, use the Indonesian kicap or Chinese dark soy, but add a little more sugar to the dish.

3 chicken legs (drumstick and thigh), about 2 lbs
5 cloves garlic, skin-on slightly smashed
3 inches ginger, peeled, sliced
3 Tablespoons sesame oil
3 Tablespoons light soy sauce
2 Tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup sherry or Chinese rice wine
1/4 cup water

1. Heat a wok on medium high.  Add sesame oil, when about to smoke, add ginger and garlic.  “Pow” or stir fry for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
2. Add chicken pieces and brown chicken.
3. Add soy sauces and sugar and toss to coat.  Add sherry and water, cover and simmer under low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add a little more water if it dries out.

Tags: Malaysian.