Last week, I had the most dissatisfying ribs at Citizen Cake.  Tough, and dry, and  crazy numbing and pungent spice only on the surface.  I should have know not to order any thing else but dessert there….let them eat cake should be Ms. Falkner’s mantra, too.

Ribs should be succulent, yet easily fall off the bone. The meat should be well flavored all the way to the bone.  I came home and made this simple Wuxi ribs, and felt a lot better after that.

Chef’s tip: In Japantown, you can get some paper sponge that you place on top of the sauce to soak up the excess oil.  It’s super handy and saves you the time in chilling the sauce.  This dish also works well in a slow pot.

1 rack pork ribs about 2 pounds, cut into smaller 3 inch riblets, or country-style ribs
5 slices ginger
3 whole scallions
1/4 cup black Zhejiang vinegar (sub: balsamic)
1/4 cup dark soy sauce
1 small stick cinnamon
1 piece whole star anise
1/4 cup + 2 Tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup water

Preparing ribs:
1. Cut the ribs into 4 pieces lengthwise about 3 inches in length, then cut into smaller pieces along each rib.  (Ask butcher to do this).
2. In a large saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil, drop in ribs, and bring to a boil again. Drain and rinse off scum from ribs in cold water.  Drain well.
Cooking the ribs:
3. Place ginger and scallions in a 6-quart dutch oven over high heat.
4. Add prepared ribs.  Add vinegar, soy sauce, cinnamon, star anise, sugar, salt and water. Bring to a boil.
5. Turn flame to medium low and cover.  Cook for 1 hour, then remove ribs.  Alternatively, place the covered dutch oven into an oven 350F for an hour.
6. Remove ribs and keep covered.  Chill sauce to solidify fat and remove fat, or blot the fat with towels.
7. Bring sauce back to a boil and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes or until the sauce is reduced by half.  Add in ribs and heat through.  Serve immediately with steamed rice.

Serves: 4

I try to provide recipes that preserve most of the traditional flavors with as little work as possible.  In classic business terms, a high ROI in the kitchen, and in simpler language, making ethnic food accessible.

This is a quick, modern version of the beloved Thai Panaeng beef curry.  Since we have access to quality beef here, the traditional slow simmer turns into a quick stir-fry, and you will have a very tasty curry in a matter of minutes instead of hours.  In addiition, instead of  boiling peanuts, and grinding them down to make the paste base, I reached for freshly ground pure peanut butter that you can find in many grocery stores these days.

Chef’s tip: “Cracking” coconut milk means separating the cream into its oil, and using the oil to fry the spices.  Unfortunately, canned coconut milk is homogenized and is a hard nut to crack (pun!).  And fresh coconut milk is almost impossible to obtain here in the Bay Area. To achieve a similar effects, you can add a tablespoon of coconut oil to the coconut cream.

Sauce:

2 cups unsweetened coconut milk, separate into 2 parts
1 Tablespoon coconut oil
1/2 Tablespoon ginger, peeled and grated
2 cloves garlic, minced

1 Tablespoon Thai red curry paste
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
2 Tablespoons creamy peanut butter
1/2 Tablespoon curry powder
1/2 Tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground
6 kaffir lime leaves, tough middle stem removed, torn into large pieces

2 Tablespoons fish sauce
2 Tablespoons palm sugar

10 basil leaves, whole

2 lbs grass-fed beef steak  – Chateaubriand, NY Strip or rib-eye, trimmed, cut into ½ inch thin strips

1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper

Garnish:
1 sprig basil
2 kaffir lime leaves, finely chiffonade
¼ cup coconut cream

1.     In a heavy saucepan over medium high heat, add half the coconut milk, ginger and garlic and bring to a boil, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes, until the oil starts to separate aka crack.
2.     Add curry paste, tomato paste, peanut butter, curry powder, paprika, cumin, coriander and kaffir leaves and sauté, stirring, 1 minute, or until fragrant.
3.     Add fish sauce, and palm sugar and remaining coconut milk.  Stir together.  Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes until thick.
4.     Slice the meat at an angle against the grain, about ½ inch thick. Season with salt and pepper.
5.     Raise the heat on the curry sauce to moderately high, add the meat to the pan and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Cook for another 2 minutes for medium rare or longer for more doneness.
6.     Taste for seasoning, adding more fish sauce or palm sugar as needed.
7.     Remove from heat. Stir in the basil leaves.  Transfer to a serving bowl.
8.     Drizzle with reserved coconut milk. Garnish with a sprig basil and kaffir ribbons.

Serves 6

I entered parenthood later in life than most of my friends.  I recall my friends with kids complaining how little time they have to cook, or how they struggle with feeding their kids right, and I naively thought to myself then, hmmm, that sounded a bit exaggerated.  But now that I have two two year old toddlers tugging at me while I am trying to put together a simple sandwich, I finally understood what those mom friends of mine were saying.  And from what I can see from the mothers’ group forum I subscribe to, feeding toddler seems to be a passionate hot topic.  It’s not just the time it takes to cook, but also the shopping, schlepping, prepping, cleaning, scrubbing the food scraps off the floor, and worst, your toddler rejecting the meal you had just spent precious time to prepare.  The routine does get old fast and you longingly look at those fruit puree pouches with the twist off caps they love so much….then your guilty conscience takes over, and you think about how you need to offer a complete and nutritious, organic meal choc full of whole grains, high ANDI, low sodium, fiber, omega-3 etc,. etc…the good stuff to develop those little brains and body.

I know the experts say to serve the colors of the rainbow, and to introduce different types of fruits and veggies early on, don’t offer options, offer but not feed -  we all have heard them before. Perhaps it is my cultural background – fearing the kid would starve that I quietly give in and bring out his favorite food in desperation so that the kid won’t go to bed on an empty stomach (even if he gleefully tells me that would be a trip to where the wild things are.)  I have friends that serve their toddlers brussel sprouts and roasted beets….heck, I can’t even get my vegetarian husband to like them.

Even as a chef, it’s been a huge challenge catering to the needs of my fussy eaters with two very different palates!  How they came out that way when they both started on the same path baffles me.  One likes veggies, not fruits, the other is a fruitman and hates veggies.  One likes Asian flavors, the other likes stuff with cheese.  I was so excited when they started really eating thinking of all the yummy foods they may like – quiche, roasted sweet potatoes, beans but alas, these days, to keep my sanity and the power struggles at bay, I practically only make a handful of items – avocado sandwiches, bolognese sauce or soy ginger pork with pasta or quinoa, zucchini patties, and lasagna.  And of course, pizza!

Now about the pizza, I finally found something that they both love and easy to prepare!   I wouldn’t say this is the healthiest of meals, but at least my boys are eating it!  I use whole wheat lavash bread as the base, and top it with a low sodium pasta sauce, and shredded organic cheese.  Takes 2 minutes to assemble, pop it into your toaster oven for 1o minutes, and viola, dinner is ready.  I have been doing this thin crust “pizza” for years, but always threw in fancy toppings, but now scaling down to basic is a life saver!  Pizza purists would probably pooh pooh over the crust, but hey, with 2 minutes of prep, I am not going to complain.

Here is a recipe for the basic pizza followed by variations for fancier pizza to please the adults.

Chef’s tip: Dave’s Gourmet is significantly lower sodium pasta sauce than most other organic brands, and unlike TJ’s no-salt marinara, it does taste quite good and not too watery.  Of course, you can use that leftover bolognese sauce from dinner, too.  If you make your own sauce and looking for a glass-bottled option, Bio Nature and Middle Kingdom (or something like that) has a no sugar nor salt added tomato sauce that is wonderful.

THIN-CRUSTED QUICK BUT GOURMET “PIZZA”

Basic Ingredients:
Whole wheat Lavash bread – Whole Foods and TJ sell rectangular letter-size lavash bread
1 cup Shredded Monterey Jack (or other cheeses like Mozarella, fontina, cheddar, quattro formaggi mix)

Basic Directions:

Preheat oven: 400F

1. Line baking sheet with parchment paper
2. Place lavash on baking tray
3. For simple cheese pizza only: Smear on a very thin layer of pasta sauce
4. Sprinkle a layer of cheese
5. For fancier versions, omit tomato sauce:  Top with filling of choice (except green herbs/vege or infused oils)
6. Bake until cheese bubbles and is slightly golden, about 10 mins
7. Let cool for 5 mins.  Cut and serve.

Note:
If using green herbs or leafy vegetables, add immediately upon removal of pizza from oven
If using infused oils, such as truffle oil, drizzle just before serving

Fancier variation: Choice of remaining ingredients:

All recipes below is for one pizza

Tomatoes, Garlic and Basil
1 cup of cherry tomatoes, cut into halves
4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced length-wise
A sprinkle of oregano (optional)
½ cup of basil, coarsely shredded

Top lavash with cheese, tomatoes and garlic.  Bake.  When done, add basil.

Potato, Taleggio and Rosemary
1 medium sized red potato, with skin.  Thinly sliced.
2 sprigs of rosemary
2 oz of taleggio cheese
¼ red onion, thinly sliced

Top lavash with cheese, potato and onion.  Dot with chunks of  tallegio, sprinkle rosemary.  Bake.

Wild mushroom and truffle oil
1 cup wild mushroom* – sliced ¼ inch thick (shiitake, hens of the wood/maitake, chanterelle, morels)
1 sprig thyme, leaves only
Drizzle of truffle oil

Top lavash with cheese, mushroom, thyme.  Bake.  Drizzle with truffle oil before serving.

Pecan, Gorgonzla and Caramelized Onion
2 oz of gorgonzola cheese
¼  cup honey roasted pecan
½ red onion, caramelized

To caramelized onion, sauté sliced onion with a little oil and water till golden, about 20 minutes.
Top lavash with cheese and caramelized onion.  Dot with small teaspoons chunks of gorgonzola. Bake.

Asparagus, Chevre Goat Cheese and Garlic Green
1 cup of peeled aspagarus, sliced 1/8^th inch diagonally
3 oz of goat cheese
¼ cup garlic green (or a mix o chives and 1 clove garlic)

Top lavash with cheese, asparagus, and garlic green.  Dot with chunks of chevre.  Bake.

Zuchinni, Ricotta Salata and Pinenuts
1 cup of zucchini. Sliced into ¼ inch rounds
Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
1 cup of shaved ricotta salata
1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped
¼ cup of toasted pinenuts

Top lavash with cheese, zucchini, dill, and pinenuts. Drizzle with EVOO. Bake.

Zuchinni blossoms, ricotta and tomato
8 squash blossoms
½ cup ricotta
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup of cherry tomatoes
½ cup basil, shredded

Stuff blossoms with ricotta mixed with salt.  Top lavash with cheese, stuffed blossoms, tomatoes.  Bake. When done, add basil. 

Butternut Squash, Teleme and Sage
1 medium sized butternut squash. Sliced very thinly.  Microwave 1 minute to soften.
2 sprigs of sage, chopped
2 oz of teleme cheese
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ red onion, caramelized
4 amaretti cookie, crushed

To caramelized onion, sauté sliced onion with a little oil and water till golden, about 20 minutes.
Top lavash with cheese, squash, onion and sage.  Sprinkle with brown sugar.  Dot with chunks of teleme.  Bake.  When done sprinkle with amaretti cookie.

Prosciutto, Arugula and Pecorino
½ cup of thinly sliced prosciutto
1 ½ cup of baby arugula
1 cup of shaved pecorino cheese

Top lavash with cheese and prosciuto.  Bake.  Add arugula and shaved pecorino.

Chicken Pesto
1 cup of cooked / grilled chicken breast
3 tablespoon basil pesto
1 cup of baby arugula

To make pesto, in a food processor, puree 2 cups of basil leaves with 1 clove garlic, ½ cup olive oil, ¼ cup parmesan, ¼ cup of pine nuts and salt and pepper
Spread pesto on lavash.  Top with cheese and chicken.  Bake. Add arugula.

Shrimp and cilantro
1 cup of rock shrimp
½ cup chopped cilantro
1 cup of cherry tomatoes
1 jalapeno
3 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced lengthwise

Top lavash with cheese, shrimp, tomatoes, jalapeno and garlic.  Bake until shrimp is bright red.  Add cilantro.

Littleneck clams, oregano, parmigiano & pecorino
1 cup of clams
1 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped
½ cup shaved parmesan cheese
½  cup of shaved pecorino cheese

Top lavash with cheese, clams and oregano.  Bake.  Add shaved pecorino and parmesan.

Ever wonder why the neighborhood Thai take out place always give you pad thai as the complimentary item if you exceed a certain ticket amount?  Because pad thai is so easy to make and the cost of the ingredients pretty darn low.  This is what they call it in business schools term, highly leverage items.  Low cost, low work, high flavor, high rewards.  The secret is really in the sauce.  Once you boil a vat of it, place it in jars and it will last forever, or at least till you run out. Everytime you feel like a pad thai, it will take you literally a few minutes to whip out the yummy dish.

Chef’s tip: Make it in small batches – no more than 2 servings at a time. You can sub the shrimp with meat of your choice.

Sauce:
2/3 cup tamarind concentrate
2/3 cup white vinegar
1/3 cup light soy sauce
1/3 cup fish sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup palm sugar
3 Tablespoons garlic powder
1/4 cup Sriracha chili sauce

Noodles:
1 lb dried rice flat noodles, soaked in warm water 30 mins, drained
½ cup canola oil
8 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 ½ cup firm tofu, cut into small ¼ X ½  X 1 inch strips
1 lb medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
12 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
6 Tablespoons pickled sweet radish, chopped finely
1 bunch Chinese chives, cut into 2 inch length (substitute with green onions if unavailable)
4 cups fresh bean sprouts
1 cup roasted and unsalted peanuts, finely chopped

2 Lime, cut into wedges, for garnish

Prepare the sauce:
1.     Combine tamarind, vinegar, soy sauce, fish sauce, salt, palm sugar, garlic powder and Sriracha in a medium saucepan and heat over medium heat. Bring to a boil and cook until the sauce becomes thick, about 15 minutes. Set aside.
Prep mise-en-place:
2.     Separate all ingredients into 4 batches, including sauce and placed mise-en-place.
Cook noodles in batches:
3.     Heat a wok over high heat until smoking. Add a Tablespoon of oil and swirl to coat the sides. Add the egg and fry for 1 minute, move it to the side.
4.     Next, add the tofu and fry till it is golden.  Move it to the side of the wok.
5.     Next add another Tablespoon of oil, then garlic and shrimp.   When the shrimp is pink, add in the radish.
6.     Next, stir in noodles, followed by the pad thai sauce. Toss back eggs and tofu. Toss to coat noodles.  Let the sauce boil and cook the noodles.  Stir occasionally to prevent sticking, until the sauce is absorbed.  Do not over stir or else the noodles will fall apart.  Check the noodles for doneness. If they are not completely cooked through, add more sauce or water. Immediately remove the wok from the heat.
7.     Stir in half the beansprouts and half the chives. Toss together and transfer noodles to a large serving platter. Scatter peanuts on top.  Place remaining bean sprouts, chives, and lime on the side. Serve immediately.
8.     Repeat for subsequent batches.

Serves 8

Ah Ma, my father’s mother, made the most delicious acar.  She learned from her nyonya mother-in-law, Ah Chor, the lady we thought looked like the little old lady in the 1960′s sitcom, Beverly Hillbillies, in a kebaya!  Ah Ma’s acar is so well pickled, it could have lasted for months if we didn’t devour it all in a week!  Her trick was to wring the blanched vegetables real dry.  I never really appreciated the nyonya heritage in my dad’s family until much later when I got interested in cooking and realized that my grandmother was probably one of the best nyonya cooks around.  Since then, it’s been an endless effort to recreate many of her recipes from the memory of taste.  This is one of them.

Chef’s tip: Use a salad spinner to remove as much water as possible from the blanched vegetables.  Pack acar tightly in a glass jar and keep refrigerated.  Like kimchi, it will keep for several weeks.

Spice Paste:
10 dried long Asian chilies, rehydrated in water or fresh Fresno chilies, seeded
2 stalks lemongrass, sliced thinly
2 slices galangal
1 piece fresh turmeric, about 1 Tablespoon, sliced
8 shallots
3 cloves garlic
1 Tablespoon roasted belachan
4 candlenuts

Vegetables:
2 carrots peeled
¼ head cauliflower
1 Japanese Eggplant
½ small savoy cabbage
12 Chinese long yard beans
1 English Cucumber, seeded

½ cup canola oil
1 cup white vinegar
½ cup of sugar
1 Tablespoon kosher salt

1 cup roasted peanuts, crushed
1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted

1. In a food processor or blender, grind chilies, lemongrass and galangal till fine. Add remaining spice paste ingredients and process till smooth. Add a little water if needed. Set aside.
2. Cut all vegetables into 1 inch juliennes. Cut cauliflower into small florets.
3. Blanch vegetables. Blanched carrots, cauliflower and eggplant till tender, about 3 minutes, and cabbage and long beans two minutes. Spin and squeeze vegetables very dry. Add in cucumber.
4. Heat oil on medium high. Fry spice paste till fragrant, red and oil has separated, about 7-10 minutes. Add vinegar, sugar and salt. Fry till fragrant about 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Remove from heat.
5. Mix in vegetables and toss to mix. Add peanuts and sesame seeds and mix to combine.  Let it sit for at last 30 mins for flavors to come together.  Can be prepared in advance.  Serve room temperature or chilled.

Serves: 6

This is one of my favorite dim sum dumpling recipe because you can get two different dumplings with one recipe!  If you wrap it potsticker half-moon style (see jiaozi recipe’s for folding method), and just stop at the steaming step below, you get a steamed chives and shrimp dumpling.  If you follow this recipe, you get the pan fried chive and shrimp dumpling recipes.  They do taste somewhat different.

Chef’s tip: You only need to pan fry the presentation side of the dumpling

Dumpling Dough:
1/2 cups wheat starch
1/4 cup + 2 Tablespoons tapioca starch
3 cups boiling water (MUST BE BOILING)
3 Tablespoons vegetable shortening

Sauce:
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
2 Tablespoons Chinese rice wine or pale dry sherry
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper, ground

Filling:
2 Tablepoons canola oil
8 oz raw shrimp, shelled and deveined, roughly minced
16 oz Chinese chives, green parts only, chopped ¼ inch length

Paper steamer liner or napa cabbage leaves

Canola oil for frying

Preparing the dough:
1.     Whisk together the wheat starch and the tapioca starch. Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring until a ball forms.
2.     Cool a little, while still warm, incorporate the shortening, a little at a time.
3.     Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until dough is soft and smooth.
4.     Divide the dough into 4 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a 2-inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into 6 pieces. Roll pieces into a ball. You should have about 24 pieces. Cover as you work.  Cover dough with a damp tea cloth for 15 minutes.
Preparing the filling
5.      Whisk the sauce ingredients together in a bowl.  Set aside.
6.     Heat a wok with the canola oil  Add the minced shrimp and saute 30 seconds.  Push to the side of the wok.  Add the chopped chives and cook till just wilted.  Pour in the sauce mix, mix in the shrimp and cook till sauce coats, about 1 minute.

Assembling
7.     Take a dough portion, work into a round ball, flatten it into a 5 inch round, about 1/8 inch thick with a rolling pin. Place a heaping Tablespoon of filling into dough.  Pull the sides to meet at the center, making a ruffled fold as you work.  Pinch the top together and give it a twist to seal.  Pinch off any extra dough at the top.  Place upside down onto a piece of waxed paper.

Steaming the dumplings:
8.     Transfer dumplings and place upside down onto a steamer that is lined with cabbage leaves or steamer liners. Steam over simmering water for 6-8 minutes or until the dumplings are translucent. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.  Let cool.
Pan frying the dumplings:
9.     Once dumplings are cooled, heat a pan over medium heat, then add oil to coat.  When oil begins to smoke, place the dumplings, smooth/top side down to the pan and let fry undisturbed for 2 minutes or until a golden crust forms and releases the dumpling from the pan.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 24 pieces

Crispy rolls filled with chicken, mushrooms and glass noodles, with characteristically- Thai flavors of lemongrass and fish sauce.  This spring roll differs from their Vietnamese counterpart as it is sweeter and uses eggroll wrappers instead of rice paper.

Chef’s tip: Cutting off an edge of the spring roll wrapper means less pastry around the filling, and would allow the spring roll to thoroughly cook through faster.

2 Tablespoon canola oil
4 small garlic cloves, minced
3 coriander roots, about 2 Tablespoons, scraped and finely chopped (substitute: stems)
3 small shallots, minced
1 lemongrass, white part only, finely minced
1 Thai bird’s eye chili, seeded, finely chopped

6 oz ground chicken
4 oz shrimp, peeled, cleaned, chopped into ½ inch pieces
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
1 Tablespoon palm sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 large egg

1 cup wood ear mushroom, fresh or reconstituted, tough stems removed, sliced thinly
1 cup shiitake mushroom, stemmed, small diced
½ yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 stalk green onions, thinly sliced
½ carrot, peeled and grated
2 oz cellophane mung bean noodles, reconstituted in water, cut into 2 inch length

20 pieces 8×8 inch egg springroll wrapper

8 cups canola oil

1.     In a sauté pan. heat oil over medium heat and sauté the garlic, coriander roots, shallots, lemongrass and chilies until fragrant, about 4 minutes.  Let cool.  Set aside.
2.     In a large bowl, add chicken, minced shrimp fish sauce, palm sugar, black pepper, and egg and mix to combine.
3.     Add cooled sautéed garlic mixture, chopped mushrooms, onions, green onions, carrots and bean thread, Stir until just combined.  Do not overmix.
4.     Cut off one corner of a springroll wrapper.  Moisten uncut edges with water.  With the cut corner closest to you, place about 2 Tablespoons of the filling on the bottom third of the wrapper.  Shape the filling into a cylinder, about 3-inches long.  Fold the left and right side over the filling. Holding the sides in place, fold the bottom flap up and roll the roll up into a tight cylinder.  Lay the rolls flap side down on the moistened towel and cover with another moist towel.  Repeat folding the remaining rolls.
5.     Frying the spring rolls:  Heat canola oil till 330F.  Drop several spring rolls into the oil and fry till golden brown, about 5 minutes each.   Do not overcrowd. Immediately drain on a wire rack over a baking sheet.  Bring the oil back up to temperature and continue until all the spring rolls have been fried.

Serves 10

Gluten-free option: Replace springroll wrappers with rice paper wrappers for Step 4

1 lb package 8 inch round Vietnamese rice paper wrappers

3 Tablespoons sugar

4.     Line a baking sheet with a damp tea towel and have another damp towel ready to cover the rolls. Line a cutting board with a third damp towel.  Fill a large sauté pan with 2 inches of water. Add sugar, bring water to a boil, then turn heat to very low. Working with one sheet of rice paper at a time, dip half the disc into the hot water, holding one corner with your fingers or a pair of chopsticks. Let it sit for about 5 seconds. Quickly dip the other half and remove and spread out flat on lined cutting board.    Place about 2 Tablespoons of the filling on the bottom third of the rice paper.  Shape the filling into a cylinder, about 3-inches long.  Fold the left and right side over the filling. Holding the sides in place, fold the bottom flap up and roll the roll up into a tight cylinder.  Lay the rolls flap side down on the moistened towel and cover with another moist towel. Patch any broken areas with small pieces of soaked, rice paper.  Repeat folding the remaining rolls.

THAI SWEET & SOUR DIPPING SAUCE

1/2 cup water
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup rice vinegar
2 Tablespoons Sriracha
2 Tablespoons fish sauce

1 Tablespoon ginger, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced

To make dipping sauce, place water, sugar, vinegar, and Sri Racha and fish sauce in a small saucepan. Heat over high heat until mixture boils, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves. Continue boiling until sauce is reduced by half, about 8 to 10 minutes, and the sauce has thickened to maple syrup consistency.   Stir in the ginger and garlic.  Cool.

Here is another mango salad recipe.  A Malaysian Nyonya version.  The key flavoring here is belachan.  Now, the following paragraph may scare you away from this recipe, but do trust me, once the belachan is roasted and mixed into the sambal, the salad is just absolutely scrumptious!  Ask any Malaysian, and they will surely defend the belachan.

Belachan is to Malaysian cooking what fish sauce is to Thai cooking.  To get the full, sweet flavor of belachan, buy a block of it, slice it up and dry toast it in a skillet.  Just be aware that your neighbors may not be liking it too much!  When I lived in Guangzhou about 20 years ago, I toasted some belachan and thought I was smart to leave the windows opened….after all, I was in US consulate housing and I don’t think my neighbors really dig the smell!  Before I knew it, every fly in Guangzhou decided to join me in the cooking!  After a humourous battle tracking down the flies and shooing them away, I was able to get all but one fly out of the apt.  To get the last fly out, I placed my bottle of now sweetly toasted belachan by the window sill.  The lone fly decided to come out of hiding and follow the waft of the belachan by the window sill.  At that point, I turned on the fan, and off he went out of the window!

Chef’s tip: You can also roast the belachan in an oven.  400F.  Chop up the belachan, spread it on a baking sheet and roast about 7 minutes.  Using a wooden spoon, break up the pieces further till crumbs form.  Return to oven for another 5 minutes.  Store leftover roasted belachan in an airtight bottle for future use!

Sambal Belachan:
6 Fresno/ red jalapeno chilies
1 Tablespoon belachan, more if desired

Dressing:
2 Tablespoon prepared sambal belachan
3 Tablespoon lime juice
2 Tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 Tablespoon dried shrimp, soaked
2 Tablespoon dessicated shredded coconut, toasted
2 green mangoes, peeled and shredded
2 shallots, finely sliced
4 kaffir lime leaves, finely chiffonaded

1. In a food processor, finely grind the red chilies into a paste. Mix with belachan.
2. Make kerabu dressing – mix together sambal belachan, lime juice, sugar and salt.  Set aside.
3. Soak dried shrimp in water until soft.  Drain and pound coarsely with a mortar and pestle or pulse with a food processor.  Set aside.
4. Toast desiccated coconut in a pan till golden brown.  Pound coconut lightly.  Set aside.
5. Shred mangoes, cut shallots into thin slices lengthwise.  Slice kaffir lime leaves finely.
6. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients with the dressing. Serve immediately.

Note: Mangoes must be green, unriped firm mangoes

Serves: 6

This simple, Vietnamese-influenced shrimp salad encompasses the full flavors of hot, sweet, sour and salty.   The dressing is really versatile and you can vary the choice of fruit, too – for example, use pomelo, green papaya, even Granny Smith apples, peaches or cantaloupe.

Chef’s tip:  To peel soft, ripe fruits like mangoes or peaches, use a serrated peeler.  Kent mangoes work well for this salad.  To seed it, peel the mango.  Then cut off about 1/2 inch off the bottom and it will reveal part of the oval, flat shaped seed.  Noting the flat side of the seed from the cut tip,  stand the mango on the cut tip, then cut along the flat side of the seed from the top down, applying a slight pressure towards the seed.  Repeat with the opposite side.  Then carefully slice off both vertical side edges along the seed.  To chiffonade herbs, stack several leaves, then roll them tightly into a little cigar.  Next, slice through the roll to create thin slices.  Fluff the sliced herbs to break up the strands.

Dressing
3 small Thai red chilies, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large shallot, finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil (not extra virgin)
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons palm sugar/ brown sugar
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon finely chopped kaffir lime leaves, optional

Salad
1 lb medium sized shrimp, shelled, deveined
2 ripe, firm mangoes, peeled, cut into thick juliennes
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
1/2 cup coarsely chopped basil leaves
1/2 cup mint, chiffonade

1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

Preparing the Dressing and topping:
1.  Place the ingredients for the dressing in a small bowl and whisk together until thoroughly combined.
Preparing the shrimp
2.  In a pot of salted boiling water, drop in the cleaned shrimp.  when shrimp turns pink, remove and immediately plunge into an ice bath.   Drain and pat dry.
Preparing the salad
3. Peel mangoes, and remove pit and slice flesh into thick juliennes.  Toss mangoes herbs and half the dressing.  Set aside.
4. Toss the shrimp with remaining dressing.  And place on top of the mangoes.
5. Garnish with pine nuts and cilantro leaves.

Serves: 6

On a cold rainy day like this, a nice hot bowl of “tong suey” warms the body like no other.  This wonderful sweet soup is relatively high in protein and has gingko nuts which is supposed to be good for you.

Chef’s tip: Tying the pandan leaves into a knot crushes the leave cells, releasing the fragrant oils of the plant.  Poaching the eggs without heat leaves the egg nice and tender.

12 cups water
1 cup pearled barley
3 pandan leaves, tied into a knot
3 sheets yuba
1 cup gingko nuts, shelled
1 cup rock sugar, to taste
2 eggs

1. Rinse pearled barley.  Add water and bring to boil.  Simmer for one hour till the “soup” is cloudy.
2. Add in  pandan leaves, yuba skin and gingko nuts and simmer another 15 minutes.
3. Remove pandan leaves,  add sugar, still till melted.
4. Remove from heat.  Break the eggs into the sweet soup, wait 20 seconds, then stir very slowly to break the yolks to form “egg flower”.
5.     Ladle the sweet soup into bowls.  Serve piping hot.

Serves: 8

One can all this delicious vegan appetizer an an open-faced samosa.  Essentially, it has all the goodness of the samosa without the deep fry and work.  Crunchy eggless wonton skins, brushed with mustard oil and baked till golden brown filled with spicy potato curry and topped with a savory granola reminiscent of the South Indian snack, muruku.

The North Indian-style aloo masala curry recipe itself is originally from my friend, Sabah Akhtar, who taught me how to make the curry using the pressure cooker — apparently a lot of Indian folks do that these days!  Totally cuts down on the time one needs to whip out a good curry.  Her potato curry is full of fresh flavors as she folds in a bunch of fresh herbs at the end.  I adjusted the recipe a little to give it more spice and kick, but it’s pretty much her recipe!  You can skip the cups and granola and just make this hearty curry as an entree.

Chef’s tip:  Panch phoran is a Bengali five whole seed blend of fennel, cumin, nigella (onion seeds), fenugreek and yellow mustard in equal proportions.  You can mix them yourself or buy them pre-blended at most indian grocery stores.  Sabah also adds an eggplant to the curry (at the same time you add the tomatoes) and it gives it a richer, more complex flavor.

Wonton Cups:
24 wonton skin, eggless if vegan
1/2 cup mustard oil

1. Brush skins with mustard oil and press into mini muffin cups.
2. Bake in 360F oven till golden, about 7 minutes. Let cool.

Aloo Masala:
2 Tablespoons mustard oil
1 1/2 Tablespoons panch phoran mix
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 small yellow onion, finely minced
1 teaspoon ginger, grated
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 serrano, seeded, minced
3 large russett potatoes, half inch diced
2 tomatoes, peeled and diced
1 Tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 cup water

1 cup peas
3/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
1/2 cup dill, chopped

1. Heat a pressure cooker under medium heat.  When hot, add mustard oil, follwoed by panch phoran mix and red pepper flakes.  Fry till spices pop.
2. Add  onion and saute under low heat for 10 mins, add ginger, garlic and serrano.  Saute for another 5 min.
3. Add potatoes and stir to coat.  Add salt, tomatoes and water.  Bring to boil.
4. When boiling, close lid and bring pressure  to the first red ring  over medium heat.  Adjust heat to stabilize at first ring and cook for 4 minutes.  Release pressure using cold water release method.
5. Remove lid, add peas and  cook till desired doneness.
6. Remove from heat and gently fold in chopped cilantro and dill.

Savory Granola:
1 cup rolled oats
1 cup wheat flakes
1/4 cup sunflower seeds
1/4 cup shredded coconut
1/4 cup cashews
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon black pepper, ground
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 cup canola oil
1/8 cup water

1. Mix all the ingredients together and bake in 325F oven till golden brown.

Assemble:
Spoon a heaping tablespoon of aloo masala into the prepared cups, and top with savory granola.

Hello Rich.  Here’s what Janet and I think is the recreation of our grandma’s recipe for dark soy sauce pork.  I am not exactly sure whether this is a Hokkien or a baba dish.  ”Ah Ma” is Hokkien, but her mother-in-law, our great grandmother “Ah Chor”, was Nyonya.  As I understand it, Ah Ma picked up a lot of her cooking skills from Ah Chor.  We used to go to my dad’s parents place for lunch every Sunday and every Sunday, there will be this dark soy sauce pork.  I vividly remember how she would stuff a special little clay pot, in which she only makes this dish with, with the pork and then braise it under a super low flame.  The pork literally melts in your mouth.  It tastes even better the next day.  We used to even eat this for breakfast, soaking up the sauce with some nice white and fluffy “wonder” bread.

Janet thinks there is some soy sauce added, I think otherwise.  If you’d like it saltier and saucier, just add a splash or two of soy sauce.  Enjoy!

Chef’s tip:
3 key things.  1.  It’s essential to use a fatty cut of pork.  The preferred cut is the “5 flower” cut, the creme de la creme of pork belly meat.   It’s the same cut of meat they make bacon with.  It literally has 5 alternating layers of fat and lean meat.  It would be great to leave the skin on, too.    2. Low heat.  You want to gently cook the fat, not sear it away.  High heat will melt the fat prematurely (i.e., in the pot, not in your mouth)    3. The Malaysian dark caramel sauce aka dark soy sauce (the really thick, black and sweet kind).  The best brand to get is the “Cheong Chan” brand.

2 lbs pork belly meat, skin-on, cut into 1 inch cubes, pat dry
6-8 cloves garlic, whole, skin-on, very lightly smashed
1/2 cup dark (caramel) soy sauce – enough to coat the pork liberally
1/2 teaspoon whole white peppercorns
Soy sauce, optional

1. Place all ingredients in a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, preferably a clay pot.  The meat should fit snugly together.   Liberally coat the pork with the dark soy sauce.
2.  Cover and braised on LOW heat for at least two hours, till desired doneness.  Stir occasionally.  The pork will cook in its own juices and fat.  May add a little water if it gets too dry too soon but try not to.

Serves: 6

Kheer is the Indian version of the universal rice pudding.  It’s the quintessential dessert item at every Indian buffet table, and the most festive of Indian desserts.  You can dress it up with some edible silver.

Here is a super, easy low maintenance recipe for the rice pudding – slow cooker aka crock pot kheer.

Chef’s tip: It’s a bitch to clean the burnt milk and rice that accumulates at the bottom of the pot, no matter how diligent you are at stirring it. (Recipe below is for slow cooker, but if you are using a stove top, the cooking times for low heat is about 1 1/4 hours).  It would take you more time to clean the pot than to cook the kheer, so I *highly* recommend using the slow cooker.  With the latter, it pretty much is a hands-off dessert, except for an occasional stir (every 30 mins or so).  The adding of the cream makes it even richer and makes up for the lack of evaporation due to the slow cooker.  I also recommend making a big pot of it, so that you will have some in the fridge to snack on for a few days!

10 cups whole milk

1 Tablespoon ghee
1/4 cup shelled pistachio meat, roughly chopped
3/4 cup + 2 Tablespoons basmati rice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
A large pinch saffron

3/4 cup sugar
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Splash of rose water or orange flower blossom water (optional)

1. Heat milk in a pot till steaming, stirring occasionally.
2. In a small saucepan, heat  1/2 Tbs ghee, add pistachios, and fry till fragrant, about 30 secs – 1 minute.  Set aside.
3. Wipe clean the pan, add remaining ghee, and roast the raw rice, another 30 seconds.  Transfer rice to a slow cooker.
4. Add hot milk and cook on high for 2 hours, stirring occasionally so that the rice and milk do not stick to the bottom of the pot.  Do not scrape the bottom of the pot so that none of the burnt parts will get stirred into the pudding.
5.  Add salt, cardamon, saffron and continue cooking till pudding is thick – about 2 more hours, leaving the pot cover slightly ajar.
6. Add sugar and cream and stir to combine.
7. Splash on rose or orange water.  Serve hot or chilled, topped with the pistachios.

Makes 12 cups.

A really light noodle dish that is full of flavor- nutty sesame and peanut butter, and hot Sichuan chili cooled down by the cucumber and cold noodles.  You can make your own noodles or substitute with store bought egg noodles or even spaghetti.  And if you really want to do this in under 30 minutes, use store bought rotiserrie chicken.

Chef’s tip: Mung bean starch is easily available in Korean grocery stores.

Noodles:

4 cups + 2 Tablespoons water
¾ cup mung bean starch

Meat and marinade:
2 chicken breast, bone-in, skin-on
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon ginger juice
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 Tablespoon canola oil

Sauce:
3 Tablespoons tahini + 3 Tablespoons water (more if tahini is thick)
1 Tablespoon light soy sauce
1 Tablespoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar
1 Tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan peppercorn or Sichuan peppercorn oil
1 teaspoon ginger, grated fine
1 clove garlic, grated fine
1 Tablespoon Asian chili oil
1 Tablespoon sesame oil

1 stalk green onions, green parts only, julienned into 1 inch strips
2 Tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon Asian chili oil
½ teaspoon sesame oil

Preparing the noodle
1.   Mix starch with 1 ½ cups of water till starch is fully dissolved.  Mix in remaining water.
2. Bring to boil, stirring constantly till the mixture thickens.  It’s easiest to stir from the center out. Stir until the mixture is clear and translucent.  About 4 minutes total.  Immediately pour mixture into a wet, glass or ceramic dish, about 9X12 inch, making a thin 3/8 inch layer.
3. Leave to cool for 45 minutes in the fridge or 2 hours at room temperature.
4.  When set, cut noodles into thin ¼ inch strips

Preparing the chicken
5.     Preheat oven 350F.  Mix chicken marinade ingredients together.  Place chicken breast on a baking sheet, rub skin with marinade.  Roast for 35-40 minutes until chicken is just cooked (190F).
6.  Remove the meat from the bones, discard skin and shred the chicken.

Preparing the sauce
7.   Whisk together the sauce ingredients in a bowl.

Preparing the garnish:
8.   Cut the green onions into 1 ½ inch section, then sliced lengthwise into thin shreds.  Put into cold water and drain well and pat dry before use.

9.   Pan-fry the sesame seeds (without any oil) under medium heat till golden brown.

Assembly:

10.  In a bowl, place a heapful of noodles.  Pour sauce over the noodles and toss to coat. Place on top of noodles some shredded chicken, green onions and sesame seed.  Finish with a little chili oil and sesame oil.

Serves: 6

One of the benefits of living in Hong Kong is the good adobo one can get from almost any home.  It’s a nice change from the Cantonese dishes.  Adobo is such a simple dish yet so flavorful.  I have been making it recently for my 18 month olds — the vinegar lends a lot of flavor, so I can reduce the salt amount.  The chicken is falling off the bone tender.  It’s even better the next day.

Chef’s tip:  Use the dark meat of the chicken.  It holds better.  If you refrigerate it overnight, the fat separates.  You cna just scoop off the fat the next day and it would be a really low fat dish!

2 lbs chicken thighs, legs or wings, trimmed
1 lb pork shoulder, cut into 2 inch cubes (omit if you would like)
1/2 cup white balsamic
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
5 bay leaves

1. Place all ingredients in a glass bowl and marinade overnight
2. Transfer to a pot and bring to boil.  Simmer on low for 1.5 hours or until chicken and pork are tender and sauce has thickened

Serves: 4

Every culture has its own favorite fried dumpling. This is India’s.  Samosas are typically stuffed with spiced potatoes.  It makes a great snack, and for me, a good breakfast, too.  Especially with a hot cup of sweet chai.

Chef’s tip: You will need to make the dough fresh to make it easier to fold the samosa.  Using a food processor to make the dough makes it really easy.  Some folks use wonton skin or phyllo dough to avoid making the dough.  I think it’s more fool proof when you make it from scratch.  Really.

Cilantro-Mint Chutney:
1 bunch cilantro leaves
1 bunch mint leaves
1 Jalapeno, seeded
1 Tablespoon ginger, peeled, grated
1 Tablespoon tamarind or lime juice
1 Tablespoon shallot, chopped
1/2 cup yogurt
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 – 1/2 cup water, enough to blend easily

Dough
4 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
6 Tablespoons ghee
3/4 – 1 cup ice water (more or less, enough to make a pliable dough)

Flour for kneading

Spice
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon tumeric powder
¼ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
1 teaspoon ajman seeds (or a mixture of thyme and oregano)

Filling
2 Russet potatoes, about 1½ lb
2 Tablespoons ghee
½ small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ginger, grated
½ cup frozen peas, thawed
1 Serrano chile, deseeded, chopped finely
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup chopped cilantro
1 Tablespoon lemon juice

6 cups canola oil

Making the chutney
1. Place all ingredients in a blender and pulse till smooth.  Set aside.

Preparing the dough:
2. In a food processor, pulse together the flour and salt to mix.  Add the ghee and pulse till breadcrumbs form.  Add water, a little at a time, until the dough comes together as a ball.  Transfer the mixture into a floured surface and knead dough for 5 minutes until it is smooth and elastic. Wrap in plastic wrap and leave to stand for 30 minutes.

Preparing the filling:
3. Boil potatoes in their skin until tender, about 15 minutes. Peel and cut into small cubes.  Let cool slightly.
4. In a saucepan, heat the ghee under low heat, add the cumin and coriander seed and fry for 15 seconds.
5. Add the chopped onion and ginger fry till golden.  Add the remaining spices, peas, Serrano chile, salt and potatoes.  Remove from heat, and stir in the chopped cilantro and lemon juice.  Mix well.  Let cool.

Assembly:

6. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough for 1 minute. Divide into 2 equal portions and roll each into a 1/2-inch thick rope. Cut each into 8 equal parts and roll into smooth balls. Place each ball on the floured surface and roll into a thin circle, about 6-inches in diameter. Cut each circle in half (2 semi-circles).
7. Spoon about 2 teaspoons of filling in the center of each semi-circle. Brush the edges with water and fold the dough over the filling. Press the edges together to seal. Place on a baking sheet.

Frying the samosas:
8. Heat the oil 350F.  Deep fry the samosas until golden brown.  Drain on a wire rack placed over a baking sheet.
9. Serve with chutney.

Serves: 32 pieces

Whenever in Shanghai, I must have xiao long bao,  Or whenever it is on any menu!  Din Tai Fung, a Shanghainese, or maybe Taiwanese chain, is able to make a fast food production out of making these delicate soup dumplings.  It is fascinating watching their staff fold these dumplings so swiftly.  One would think they pay their staff based on how fast they can churn out these dumplings.

Chef’s tip: The trick to getting the soup in the middle is by gelling up some aspic with the filling, so when you steam it, the aspic melts to become a soup.

Soup:
1 lb chicken wings tip
3 cups water
2 oz Hunan smoked pork, whole
1 stalk green onions, cut into 3 inch lengths
3 slices ginger
1 Tablespoon Chinese rice wine

Dough:
½ cup high protein/ bread flour
¼ cup all purpose flour
¼ cup + 1 Tablespoon (or more) boiling water
1 teaspoon canola oil

Filling:
1 Tablespoon green onions, white part, very finely minced
1 Tablespoon ginger juice, from 1 Tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon Chinese rice wine
½ Tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
8 oz ground pork

Napa cabbage leaves or parchment paper

Sauce:
¼ cup red wine vinegar + 2 Tablespoon water
5 slices ginger, julienned

Preparing the soup

1.     Place all ingredients in a pot. Bring to boil and gently simmer till stock has reduced into half. Cool.
2.    Remove solids and pass the soup through a sieve into a wet pan.  Chill.
3.     When soup has gelled, scrape it up and break it up with a fork.  Set aside in the refrigerator.
Preparing the dough.
4.     Combine the 2 flour together. Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring until a ball forms.  Cool a little, while still warm, stir in the oil.  Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until soft and smooth.  Wrap in plastic and let rest for 1 hour.
5.     Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a 1 inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into 12 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. You should have about 24 pieces. Cover as you work.
Preparing the filling
6.     Mix all the ingredients together.  Add in the crushed stock.  Gently mix together.
Making the dumpling
7.     Take a dough portion, work into a round ball, flatten it into a 2 1/2 inch round with a rolling pin.  Make a well in the center and place 1 tablespoon of filling, pat it into a mound, leaving a ¾ inch edge around.  Carefully pull up the dough edge with your right thumb and index finger to make the first pleat, while your left thumb centers the filling.  Next, gather the edge of the wrapper with your left index fingers and start to make the subsequent pleats, while your right thumb and index fingers seal the pleats that are formed.  Aim to make 18 pleats per dumpling. Pinch the top together and give it a twist to seal.  Peel off any extra dough at the top.  Placed onto a steamer that is lined with cabbage leaves.
8.     Steam over simmering water for 8 minutes or until the dumplings are translucent.
Preparing the dipping sauce:
9.     While dumplings are steaming, julienne ginger, and mix with red wine vinegar and water.  Serve with dumplings.

Serves: 4

Perhaps the most popular Asian dessert.  Sticky, chewy, sweet, salty, sour.  Truly a great texture + flavor combo.  If you can find black glutinous rice, it makes for a dramatic presentation.  And it’s so simple to make.

Chef’s tip: You would ask, why is there salt in this dessert recipe?  Salt brings out the full flavor of coconut.

Rice:
2 cups sweet glutinous rice, soaked overnight
4 pieces of pandan leaves*
2 ½ cups coconut milk
¾ cup coconut milk, reserve
¾ cup sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Fruit:
3 large ripe mangos
2 limes, zest only

Preparing the rice:
1.  Wash the rice and cover with water.  Set aside at least 6 hours to overnight.
2.  Prepare a large pot of boiling water with steamer.  Line steamer with cheesecloth.
3.  Drain rice.  Place rice evenly on the cheesecloth.   Place a knotted pandan leaves in the rice.
4.   Steam for about 20 minutes.  Test for doneness ie rice is tender and cooked through.
5.  In the meantime, combine sugar and salt with the coconut milk and bring to boil until sugar is dissolved.  Make sure you don’t over boil the mixture.
6.    When rice is done, quickly transfer to a serving bowl.  Pour the coconut mixture into rice mixture and stir.  Leave to stand 10-15 minutes.

Preparing the fruit:
7.   Peel the mango and cut the flesh into slices.
8.   Using a rind peeler or a peeler with a knife, make fine lime rinds strips.

Serving:
9.   To serve, place the fresh mango on top of a scoop of rice, drizzle the reserve coconut milk and garnish with lime strips.

Serves: 12

We always eat Tang Yuen during the winter solstice  - December 22 to be exact.  That’s the date for the Chinese family reunion dinner – similar to Thanksgiving here.  As a child, I remember helping my grandmother roll these balls.  We would of course, make them in all sort of shapes – I remember making a dice, too.

Chewy and sweet, it gives you a satisfying burst of flavor when you bite into one of these glutinous rice balls.  You can serve it with a simple syrup cooked with ginger, or in this recipe below, Shanghainese style with fermented rice wine.  Served this way, it is also supposedly a good galactogogues.  Don’t worry if you don’t know what that means, if you had needed it, then you would already know what it means!

Chef’s tip: Make a batch to freeze.  Place them on a small baking sheet, freeze.  When it is frozen, transfer to a ziplog bag.

½ lb glutinous rice flour
1 Tablespoon powdered sugar
½ cup boiling water
½ cup room temperature water

Red food coloring, optional

½ cup mashed red beans filling, from a can or prepare from scratch

8 cups water

½ cup rock sugar
½ cup dried longans
¼ cup red dates, pitted
2 eggs
1 cup store-bought jiu niang (fermented glutinous rice and wine)

Preparing the dumplings:
1.     Whisk together the rice flour with the powdered sugar.  Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring to mix.  Slowly add the room temperature water and keep mixing until the dough comes together as a ball and no longer sticks to your hand.
2.     Transfer to a lightly floured board, add food coloring and knead for 2 minutes until dough is soft, smooth and malleable.
3.     Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a ½ inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into ¾ inch pieces. Roll each piece into a ball.  Cover dough with a damp tea cloth as you work.
4.     Take a ball and flatten it into a 2 inch round, about 1/8 inch thick with a rolling pin.  Place the wrapper in your palm. Place ½ teaspoon of filling into dough.  Bring the sides together, pinch to seal and roll between your palms to create a smooth ball, making sure filling is totally concealed,
5.     Bring a large pot of water to the boil and drop in the balls. Once they float, they are cooked.  Remove and plunge into a bowl of room temperature water.
Preparing the sweet soup:
6.     Bring water, rock sugar, longans and red dates to boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off heat.  Break the eggs into the sweet soup, wait 20 seconds, then stir very slowly to break the yolks to form “egg flower”.  Add in the jiu niang and stir once.
7.     Ladle the sweet soup into bowls and ladle in the rice balls.  Serve piping hot.

Serves: 4

Not your mom’s little brother but the chewy wheat gluten aka seitan.  I think all the modern seitans you get at health food stores these days that are braised in a soy-based sauce has its roots in this classic Shanghainese appetizer.

Chef’s tip:  To simplify the recipe, you may skip the deep fry (steps 3 and 4).  The deep frying lends a more complex flavor to the dish.  It also balances the sauce that is soaked in the gluten.  The gluten, as the most absorbent item, is intensely flavored.

2 pieces star anise
1/3 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup peanuts, peeled, raw
2 cups water

4 oz fresh wheat gluten, torn into bite size pieces
2 cups canola oil

1 cup shiitake mushrooms, sliced thickly
2 cups wood ear mushrooms, reconstituted from 1/2 cup dry, trimmed of hard stems
1 cup lily buds, reconstituted from 1/2 cup dry, trimmed of hard stems, knotted
1 cup bamboo shoots, rinsed, sliced

1 Tablespoon sesame oil

1. Place star anise, soy sauce, sugar, water, peanuts and water in a pot and bring to boil.  Turn low to simmer 20 minutes.
2. In the meantime, soak what gluten in hot water, rinse.  Repeat.  Squeeze very dry between tea towels.
3. Bring oil to 350F.  Deep fry gluten pieces till golden brown.  Drain on a cookie rack on a sheet pan.
4. Plunge cooled gluten into a big bowl of room temperature water.  Give it a few good squeeze.  Squeeze dry.
5.  Add mushrooms, lily buds, bamboo shoots and gluten to the sauce mixture and bring to boil.  If the sauce does not cover the ingredients, add a little more water.  Turn heat to low and simmer till almost dry, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour.
6. Drizzle with sesame oil.  Toss to mix.  Chill and serve cold.

Serves: 4

Sticky, chewy Chinese rice cakes are definitely a textural affair.  These Chinese gnocchi make a great base for many flavors – leeks with lamb, salted egg yolks with crab roe or simply in a clear soup.  This simple Shanghai-style stir-fry recipe, which I recreated from eating the nian gao that my friend Geraldine’s mom makes, is a truly satisfying comfort food.

Chef’s tip: Well, Mrs.Liu recommended the Korean-made rice cakes over the Chinese made ones since it doesn’t require parboiling or soaking.

Marinade:
4 pieces chicken thighs, boneless, skinless, trimmed of fat, thinly sliced
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1/2  Tablespoon shao xing wine
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 Tablespoon oil

Sauce:
4 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon shao xing wine
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 cup chicken broth (and more if needed)

3 Tablespoon canola oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
5 slices ginger, thinly julienned
1/2 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced
4 cups napa cabbage, stems and leaves separated, sliced into 1/2 inch strips
16 oz rice ovaletts (fresh, refrigerated ones, preferably Korean made), toss to separate
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
1 stalk green onions, green parts only, thinly sliced

1. Marinade chicken strips with soy sauce, oyster sauce, shao xing wine, sugar, cornstarch and oil for 20 minutes.
2. Mix sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
3. Heat a wok or a non stick pan over high heat.  Add half the oil, when hot, add garlic and ginger.  Saute for 30 seconds until fragrant.  Add marinated meat and onions and brown meat, about 2 minutes.  Push to the side of the wok.
4. Add napa cabbage stems and red bell pepper and saute until limp, about 2 minutes.    Push to the side of the wok.
5.  Add remaining oil, then add the rice cakes.  Drizzle in part of the sauce mixture, being careful to not soak the rice cakes.  Toss all wok ingredients together.  Add in cabbage leaves.  When the sauce has cooked off, add remaining sauce in parts, each time being careful not to soak the rice cakes.  Continuously stir fry until the rice cakes are tender, about 6 minutes.
6.  Drizzle in the sesame oil, and toss with green onions.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 4

During the first dotcom days, when I was working in a super cool start-up South of Market, I ventured out to Tu Lan on 6th and Market with my fabulously-dressed colleague, Pam, to check out their spring rolls.  The experience was savory, and I don’t mean the food.   We just had to try the spring rolls!  After all, Zagats gave them a 22 or was it 24 then on their food rating.  I don’t think that place even knows Zagat has them rated!  Their food was too greasy for my liking.  The local residents thought we were too out of place for their liking.

So, here is a clean tasting recipe for you to make in the peace and safety of your home.

Chef’s tip: As with any deep frying, controlling the temperature is key to making your deep fried morsel crispy and not greasy.  To get the olden hue on the rice wrapper, dipping in a sugary water gives it a coat of sugar to caramelized in when deep fried.

6 oz shrimp
6 oz ground pork
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 small eggs or 1 large

1 small carrot, grated coarsely
2 cups fresh shiitake, thinly sliced
2 cups wood ear mushroom (from about 3/4 cup dried, reconstituted in water), thinly sliced
2 large shallots, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced, soaked in water, and spun dry
1/2 cup cilantro, chopped
1/2 cup mint, chopped
1 stalk green onions, thinly sliced
2 oz cellophane mung bean noodles, reconstituted in water, cut into 2 inch length

1 lb package 8 inch round Vietnamese rice paper wrappers
3 Tablespoons sugar
8 cups canola oil

1 bunch green leaf or butter lettuce, ribs removed

Nuoc Mam Cham dipping sauce ingredients:
1 red Thai chile, finely minced or 1 teaspoon sambal olek
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 tablespoons sugar
1 lime, juiced to make ¼ cup
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
½ cup water

1. Preparing the sauce: Mix all dipping sauce ingredients together (chile, garlic, sugar, lime juice, fish sauce, vinegar and water).  Set aside.
2. In a food processor, pulse shrimp till coarsely chop, add pork and give it a pulse or two.  Add fish sauce and black pepper, and egg and pulse to combine.
3. Add the rest of the vegetables ingredients and bean noodle and toss to combine.
4. Line a baking sheet with a damp tea towel and have another damp towel ready to cover the rolls. Line a cutting board with a third damp towel.
5. Fill a large sauté pan with 2 inches of water. Add sugar, bring water to a boil, then turn heat to very low. Working with one sheet of rice paper at a time, dip half the disc into the hot water, holding one corner with your fingers or a pair of chopsticks. Let it sit for about 5 seconds. Quickly dip the other half and remove and spread out flat on lined cutting board.
6. Place about 2 Tablespoons of the filling on the bottom third of the rice paper.  Shape the filling into a cylinder, about 3-inches long.
7. Fold the left and right side over the filling. Holding the sides in place, fold the bottom flap up and roll the roll up into a tight cylinder.  Lay the rolls flap side down on the moistened towel and cover with another moist towel. Patch any broken areas with small pieces of soaked, rice paper.  Repeat folding the remaining rolls.
8. Frying the spring rolls:  Heat canola oil till 375F.  Drop several spring rolls into the oil and fry till golden brown, about 5 minutes each.  Immediately drain on a wire rack over a baking sheet.  Bring the oil back up to temperature and continue until all the spring rolls have been fried.
9.  Wrap each spring roll with lettuce and serve with Nuoc Mam Cham dipping sauce.

Serves: 8

I probably should rebrand my site as the noodle blog!  Noodles are just a totally Asian favorite go-to fast food….almost in every Asian country east of India.  I love my noodles.  I guess you can take the girl out of Asia but you can’t take the noodles out of her…

The sukiyaki is really a dish, rather than a noodle dish.  Eaten with rice, but I like it just as it is — a big bowl of noodles.

Chef’s tip: To thinly slice the beef, pop the beef into freezer for about 20 minutes,

1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup sake
2 cups water

1 Tablespoon sesame oil
1 lb thinly sliced beef (rib-eye, sirloin)
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 cups napa cabbage, thinly sliced
4 oz cellophane / glass noodle, soaked in cold water till soft
1 sprig green onion, thinly sliced

1. Mix the mirin, soy, sake and water together and set aside.
2. In a pan, heat the sesame oil, then saute the beef and onion till slightly browned.
3. Pour in the sauce mixture, add cabbage and.
4. Simmer till tender.  Add the noodles, bring till boil again.
5. garnish with green onions.

Serves: 4

At our recent chefs meeting at Parties That Cook, our chef chief, Bibby, mentioned she read an article on how San Francisco’s vegetarians are turning vegan and restaurants are getting into offering vegan on the menu.  Here’s the SF Chronicle article.   Yesterday, as I drove down O’Farrell to get to Sur La Table, I noticed a big blinking neon sign outside a Chinese restaurant that spells VEGAN!  I can just imagine some dude out in Guangzhou feverishly making neon signs that no longer says Free Delivery or All You Can Eat Buffet but a simple Vegan instead!

The nice thing about a lot of Asian cuisine is that they are typically vegan.  I love toying with the different noodle types made out of various different grains – buckwheat soba, rice vermicelli sticks, glutinous rice disc, mung bean cellophane noodles and here, sweet potato starch noodles.

Chef’s tip:  You’ve gotta eat this dish immediately.  Chilling a starch noodle makes the noodles stiff.

2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small yellow onion, sliced thinly, makes 1 cup
4 oz shitake mushrooms, sliced thinly
1 carrot, julienned
1 red pepper, sliced thinly
2 red jalapeno, seeded, and julienned finely, optional
2 sprigs green onion/ scallions, julienned into 2 inch sprigs, makes about 2 cups
2 cups baby spinach

Sauce:
3 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup tamari/ light soy sauce
2 tablespoon water

Noodles:
3-4 tablespoons sesame oil
6 oz potato starch noodles, soaked in hot water 10 mins

1. In a small bowl, mix all sauce ingredients.  Set aside.
2. Boil noodles according to package directions.  Drain and set aside.
3. Heat a wok over high heat.  Add 1 tablespoon sesame oil, add garlic, onions, mushrooms.  Stir fry for 1 minute, push to the side, or remove from pan.
4. Add 1 tablespoon sesame oil, stir fry carrots, red pepper and jalapeno.  Fry till fragrant and vegetables are tender – about 2 minute.
5. Add sauce mixture to the wok, and bring to boil.
6. Add noodles and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed. Toss in mushroom and spinach.  Cover and steam for 1 minute.  Add a little more water if necessary.
7. Garnish with chopped green scallions.  Drizzle with more sesame oil and soy sauce if necessary.
8. Serve immediately.

Serves: 6

My mom makes the most silky steamed eggs.  I tried making the dish many times and ended up with eggs that are either too runny, scrambled or overcooked — what she would call “pock marked and more wrinkled face than the old grandmother”.  Her secret: she whisks in hot water into the eggs — an extreme egg  tempering method.  By bringing the eggs to a higher temperature before steaming, it helps the eggs cook faster and more evenly.

A cousin of the Japanese Chawan Mushi, the Chinese steamed egg is fuller bodied and thicker.  This 3 “king” eggs recipe (and I mean 3 different types of eggs, not the count) is a delicious combination of century eggs (pi dan) and salted duck eggs suspended in a regular egg custard.  You can also add some ground pork simply seasoned with soy sauce, sesame oil and white pepper.

Chef’s tip: As provided by my mom above!

2 eggs
1 salted duck egg
1 century egg
1 cup hot water

1. In a small bowl, whisk the chicken eggs and the whites of the salted duck egg together.  While whisking, slowly pour in the hot water.
2. In the meantime, bring a steamer to boil with an empty dish that will hold the eggs.  A stainless steel or enamel plate works best.
3. Cut up the duck egg into 6 wedges and scatter over the plate.  Repeat with the pi dan.  (If using ground pork, add it here, too).  Bring steamer to boil, covered.
4. When water comes to a boil, pour in the egg mixture.
5. Cover the steamer and continue steaming for 5 minutes under medium heat.  The egg is done when the center is jiggly.
6.  Drizzle on some shallot oil and soy sauce before serving.

Shallot oil
2 shallots, sliced thinly
1 cup canola oil

Heat canola oil on medium heat.
Add sliced shallots and cook till golden brown, about 15 minutes.
Pour cooled oil into a jar — it will keep for weeks.

I haven’t spent as much time eating/standing/awake in Bangkok as I would like to — during my many trips there when I worked in corporate in Asia, I was either stuck in a conference room, or if there were any free hours, getting heavenly massages at the many wonderful spas there!  My company put us up at the Westin Banyan Tree which has an amazing spa and a wonderful buffet dinner spread (yeah, buffets are pretty popular higher end dining in Asia) and I loved walking into the buffet lounge lobby smelling the lemongrass incense and hearing the soft pounding sound of Som Tum being prepared.  The green papaya station is always my first stop at the buffet.  Ah, Sawadee!

Chef’s tip:  Green papayas are essentially unriped papayas.  You can get them at Asian food stores.  They often times wrap it in newspaper to prevent it from ripening.  Other finer points: “Som Tum Thai” has peanuts and dried shrimp mixed in, “Som Tum Bu” has small pickled crabs pounded in, or “Som Tum Lao Sai Pla Ra” has fermented mud fish mixed in it.

Dressing

4 Tablespoons fish sauce
4 Tablespoons palm sugar/ brown sugar
4 Tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 Tablespoon tamarind concentrate

Salad

1 green papaya, peeled – yields 4 cups shredded
2 roma tomatoes – yields 1 cup of sliced roma tomatoes or 1 cup cherry tomatoes
1 handful Chinese string/long beans (or baby haricot vert) – yields 1 cup
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2-4 small Thai red chilies, deseeded, finely sliced – number depending on heat level
2 Tablespoons dried shrimp – presoaked in water
1 shallot, peeled, sliced
½ cup peanuts, roasted

1 cup cilantro leaves

To prepare the dressing
1. Mix together dressing ingredients.  Taste.  Adjust if needed. Set aside.

To prepare the vegetables:
2. Using a food processor (medium grate) or grater, shred the green papaya flesh
3. Deseed the tomato and cut into long slivers (or if using cherry tomatoes, half them)
4. Cut the beans into 1 ½ inch lengths.  Blanch in hot water for 3 minutes or until bright green and quickly plunge into cold water.  Drain.

Assembling – make per serving.  Divide ingredients into 6 parts.
5. In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, chili and dried shrimp into a paste
6. Add the sliced shallots and pound slightly to bruise the shallots
7. Add the long beans and pound to bruise the beans.
8. Add the peanuts and lightly pound again to crush the nuts
9. Add the shredded papayas and lightly pound until it is limp and soft
10. Add sliced tomatoes and press gently to blend
11. Add dressing and toss to combine.  Garnish with cilantro.
12. Serve immediately.  Repeat per serving.

Serves: 8

Pho purists will probably pooh pooh over this faux pho since I used store-bought beef broth.  Horrors.  But before you click on to another page, give this a try.  For 20% of the work, you get more than 80% of the flavor.  Frankly, it’s almost as good as the real thing. I recently taught a class on South East Asian street foods at Sur La Table, and had 2 hours to do 5 dishes.  Given a decent pot of beef stock takes 5-6 hours, we had to use the boxed version.  It takes literally less than 15 mins to pull this noodle dish together.  How is that for a quick pho?

Chef’s tip: OK — if you want truly want the real thing, buy about 6 lbs or more of beef bones – shanks, oxtails…those parts with good marrows.  Place bones in a big pot of water, bring to boil and let boil 10 mins.  Pour off the water and rinse the pot and bones of scum.  Next, measure in 10 quarts of water, and bring to boil, then simmer 5 hours, while continuously removing scum and oil that form on top  Remove bones and any other solids.  Strain the broth.  Place in the fridge overnight, remove the solid layer of oil that forms.  Now, the broth is ready for use.  Move on to Step 1 below.

Broth:

8 quarts beef broth (unsalted preferably)
2 (3-inch) pieces ginger, skin on
2 small yellow onions, skin on, root removed
1 large white radish, peeled, cut into 2 inch chunks
8 whole star anise
6 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
Cheesecloth
¼ cup fish sauce, or more to taste
3 tablespoons sugar

1 ½ lbs dried 1/16-inch-wide rice sticks, soaked

1 lb beef sirloin or tenderloin

Garnish:
½ yellow onion, sliced paper-thin
½ cup scallions, chopped
½ cup cilantro, chopped
4 cups mung bean sprouts
16 sprigs Asian basil
1 serrano or jalapeno chili, cut into thin rings
2 lime, cut into thin wedges

Sri Racha hot sauce
Hoisin sauce

1. Bring the beef broth to a boil in a large stockpot.
2. Char the onion and ginger pieces over an open flame. Peel and discard the blackened skins of the ginger and onions, then rinse, cut into 2 and add to the broth. Add radish.  Boil at medium flame for 30 minutes.
3. Place all spices into a cheesecloth and make into a bundle.  Add spice bags into broth, boil another 30 minutes.
4. Add fish sauce and sugar.  Taste, and add more if needed.  The broth should be quite salty as it will be balanced by the noodles.  Remove spice bag, onion, ginger and radish.  If necessary, strain the broth.
5. Slice the onion paper thin.  Soak in cold water for 30 minutes, drained and pat dry.
6. Chop scallions and cilantro and mix together.  Set aside
7. Place bean sprouts, herbs, chilies and lime wedges on a central plate.
8. Soak the rice noodles in cold water for at least 20 minutes.  Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the drained rice noodles. Give the noodles a quick stir and cook until tender but firm — less than 1 minute. Drain immediately.  Use immediately.
9. Pop the beef into the freezer.  When slightly frozen, remove and slice paper thin against the grain.
10. To serve, place the cooked noodles in bowls.  Place a few slices of the raw sirloin on the noodles. Bring the broth to a rolling boil; ladle about 2 to 3 cups into each bowl. The broth will cook the raw beef instantly. Garnish with yellow onions, scallions and cilantro mix. Serve immediately with the platter of sprouts and herbs, and Sri Racha and hoisin sauce.

Serves: 8

Chef’s tip: The most critical ingredient to recreate the street flavor of Hokkien char mee is the pork cracklings and lard.  Without it, it’s just a regular noodle!  Thanks to David Chang, eating pork fat is now cool.  To find pork fat, you will need to go to an Asian or Mexican butcher and ask them specifically for it, and they may be able to slice off some fat for you.  Not a usual item, since they typically throw it out or process the fat into lard.  We need the whole piece of fat, not those that is already in a tub.

Another tip is to use fish sauce.  Some folks swear that if you add some dried “crooked mouth fish” flakes into the dish, you will get the authentic hokkien mee flavor.  Frankly, I don’t exactly know what’s the fish’s name is in English, I just asked for the crooked mouth fish in those dried seafood shops near the Central Market in KL.  So, back in San Francisco, I decided to add a dash of fish sauce.

Lastly, the ubiquitous dark soy sauce is critical.  The Malaysian version is thick and of the consistency of blackstrap molasses.  I looked at the label of my precious dark soy sauce my mom brought me from KL, and lo and behold, it doesn’t have soy in it.  Just caramel, salt and flavoring.  It’s a Malaysian version of molasses, I guess.  Use the Indonesian kicap manis, which is really sweeter than we need, but we can balance it with salt and soy sauce.

Sambal:
10 red Fresno chiles
2 Tablespoons roasted belachan
2 limes, cut into wedges

Sauce:
6 Tablespoons dark soy sauce
3 Tablespoons light soy sauce
1 Tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses
6 cups chicken stock

Pork marinade:
1 lb pork tenderloin, sliced
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil

½ lb pork fat, cut into medium dice

10 cloves of garlic, minced
1 lb medium-sized shrimps, deveined, shelled
1 lb squid, cleaned, cut into ¼ inch rings
1 lb Chinese mustard “choy sum”, cut into 2 inch length

4 lb fresh thick yellow egg noodles (Shanghai style, udon-thickness)

Preparing the ingredients

1.     To prepare the sambal condiment, grind chile with a food processor till fine paste.  Add belachan and mix well.  Set aside with the lime wedges.
2.     Whisk sauce ingredients together in a bowl.   Set aside
3.     Marinade the pork tenderloin with the cornstarch, soy sauce, oyster sauce and sesame oil.   Set aside.
4.     In a wok, render the pork fat till crackling forms.  Remove the cracklings and reserve.  Ladle out and reserve the lard.
5.     Bring a pot of hot water to boil.  Drop noodles into the boiling water, stir to separate the noodles and boil for 2 minutes or until noodles are cooked but not soft.  Remove and drain.
6.     Place the remaining ingredients mise-en-place, and roughly divide each ingredient into 4 portions

Cooking the dish – 2 servings at a time

7.     Heat wok on high heat with 1 Tablespoon lard.   Add 1 teaspoon garlic and a portion of shrimp and squid and saute until shrimp turns pink. Remove from wok and set aside.
8.     Add 1 Tablespoon lard and 1 teaspoon of garlic and 1 portion of the pork.  Sauté 1 minute until pork is browned, then add the sauce mixture and bring to a boil.
9.     Next, add the vegetable and noodles. Toss till noodles are well coated.  Cover to simmer on medium heat for 2 minutes or until all the sauce is absorbed.
10.  Uncover, turn back heat to high, add back the shrimp, squid and pork cracklings and toss to combine.
11.  Drizzle on a tablespoon of lard to finish.  Serve immediately with sambal and lime.

Repeat for each serving.  It is very important that the dish is cooked no more than 2 servings at a time for maximum “wok hay” (wok’s breath)

Serves: 8

Promise me that if you use this recipe, please stick to a sustainable source of the Chilean sea bass.  Whole Foods Market, where I teach, carries farmed Patagonian toothfish seabass. Otherwise, you can always substitute with other higher oil content white fish such as black cod which is sometimes referred to as butterfish or sablefish, or escolar fillets

Chef’s tip:  You can just broiled or grilled fish till cooked.  Also, instead of mirin, you can use 1/4 cup sake with 2 TB sugar.  Here’s a recipe to making your own pickled ginger.

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup white miso paste
2 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup rice vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped pickled ginger + 1 Tablespoon pickle juice

Four 6-oz chilean seabass, black cod or escolar fillets

1. Mix marinade ingredients together.  Add fish, cover and refrigerate 24 hours
2. Broil fish 4 minutes.
3. Roast in oven 425 degrees for 3-5 minutes.

Serves: 4

Radish cake is eaten during Chinese New Year as a symbol for togetherness.   My friend, Ophelia, made the dish this year again….I wish she lived closer coz I would love to get together and have a slice delicious law bak goh!  She shares the secret from her mom — the oil keeps the batter together.  In addition, she recipe-tested my recipe and this is what she says:  “I added one cup less water than your [original] recipe – I judged it by the consistency … when it looked too watery, I added a little more rice flour.  It was 11pm by the time I was done steaming.  I decided to put the whole pan outside the door, and by the Monday it was nice and firm, ready to be fried for New Year breakfast! “  Looks like the 2010 Washington DC snowmageddon did come in useful afterall!

Anyways, I promised her if she shared the picture, the recipe will be on the blog forever so she needn’t search high and low for her copy each new year!  Here we go! Do note to add more water/ rice flour as needed.

2 lbs Chinese white radish, grated
1 cup water + about 1  1/2 cups water

4 Chinese sausages, finely diced
1/4 cup dried shrimps*, soaked in warm water with 1 tablespoon sherry, drain and chopped roughly
2 + 2 tablespoons oil
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked, or use fresh, finely diced
2 cups rice flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 teaspoon five spice powder

1 tablespoon cilantro, finely chopped
1 tablespoon scallion, finely chopped

1. Peel and grate radish. Place shredded radish in a small pot or saucepan with 1 cup of water. Bring mixture to a boil, than reduce the heat to a low and simmer for 15 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.  Transfer to a large bowl.  Let cool.  Drain radish.  Save cooking liquid.
2. Pour cooking liquid into a measuring cup. Add remaining water to make 2 1/2 cups of liquid.
3. Start a steamer over a wok of boiling water.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in wok. Stir-fry sausage, 1 minute.  Add the shrimp; fry 30 seconds and mushrooms, 1 minute.  Remove from heat. Set aside.
5. To the cooking liquid mixture, whisk in rice flour, sugar, salt, pepper, 5 spice powder and reserved radish and mix until consistency of thick oatmeal.  You may need to add more water or rice flour.  Add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil.
6. Add in sausage & mushroom mixture, scallion and cilantro.  Mix well.
7. Line a 6 inch by 9 inch (or a 9 inch diameter) cake pan with parchment paper and grease with oil liberally. Pour mixture into it. Place on rack in steamer. Steam over briskly boiling water 1 hour.  The cake is somewhat gooey at this stage.
8. When cold, refrigerate overnight to firm up the cake.
9. To serve, slice 1/4 inch thick, 2 inches wide, and 3 inches long. Fry slices in 1 tablespoon canola oil until golden brown. Serve hot.

Serves: 6-8

For the many of you who are googling for a dumpling recipe on Chinese New Year! Have fun!  When I lived in HK and China, I always enjoyed getting together with friends and rolling out the dough and shaping the dumplings during CNY.  Somehow this tradition didn’t make it to South East Asia.

Chef’s tip: You can also use “sui kow” skin instead of making the dough from scratch.

Dough:
1 ¼ cup of all purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
2/3 cup of water

Filling:
1/2 lb of ground pork
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger2/3 -1 cup of cold water
1/2 egg
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or sherry
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons scallions, finely chopped

Dipping sauce:
1/2 cup light soy sauce
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, cut into thin matchsticks
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 cloves finely chopped garlic
2 spring onions (green onions, scallions), chopped

Preparing the dumpling skin
1. Mix salt and flour together.  Make a well in the middle and add water to make a stiff dough.
2. Knead till dough is smooth and elastic.
3. Cover with a damp kitchen cloth and let rest 20 mins.
4. Roll out dough into long rods, cut into small pieces – the size of a cherry
5. Roll each dough into a round ball, flatten with your palm, and then roll out on a floured surface till it forms a small disc about 2 inch in diameter
6. Sprinkle corn flour on each piece so that they would not stick together

Preparing the dipping sauce
7. Whisk together all the dipping sauce ingredients

Preparing the dumplings
8. Finely chop the bokchoy stems. Mix with 2 teaspoons salt and set aside for 5 minutes. Squeeze out the excess moisture.
9. Mix meat, bokchoy, egg, ginger, wine, salt and pepper.  Add water till it becomes a paste.
10. Brush the upper half edges of the dumpling skin rounds with water.  Place a dumpling skin on your palm and mound about 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of each skin.  Fold into a half moon.  Very carefully, insert your left index fingers between the wrapper on the open edge, then using your right index and thumb, create 3 small pleats on the upper skin, then press firmly to seal with the lower skin.   Press lightly to seal.  Make sure seams are well-sealed and place on a tray dusted with cornstarch.
11. Boil water to a rolling boil.  Add dumplings.  When the water has returned to a boil, pour in a cup of cold water.  Allow water to return to boil again, and add another cup of cold water.  When the water returns to boil the third time, the dumpling should be cooked through.

Assembly:
12. Place 4 -6 dumplings in a bowl, serve with dipping sauce

Serves: 6-8

My family eats this dish for lunch on the first day of Chinese New Year for the “opening of the year” meal.  It’s all vegetarian, so I guess it’s to set us up for good karma for the year for not killing any animals, even if it’s only one meal a year.  Well, if that >1 billion Chinese all over the world skip meat for just one meal, that’s a lot of animals not killed.  In non-Asian places, the dish is aka Buddha’s Delight – although it really has nothing to do with the Buddha, but it sure is a delightful dish despite its somber colors!  Anyhoo, this chye choy is very delicious with a mix of mushrooms and soy derivatives, and makes a great vegan offering.

Chef’s tip:  The “fatt choy” are those little black strands you see in the picture.  (no worries, its not hair!  We do respect food safety standards.)  It’s a kind of seaweed.   But with a name like “fatt choy” like in Kong Hee Fatt Choy, eating it brings you good luck!  Happy year of the Tiger.

8 oz shiitake mushrooms, sliced or halved
4 oz Nameko mushrooms, whole, trimmed
4 oz crimini, halved
1 cup cloud ears mushrooms, fresh or reconstitute ½ cup dried
1 cup tiger lily buds, fresh or reconstitute ½ cup dried
1 cup enoki mushrooms

3 Tablespoon canola oil
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups Napa cabbage, sliced

8 cubes fermented bean curd
3 Tablespoon canola oil
1 cup water

2 cups fried tofu puffs
1 large piece yuba, fresh or reconstituted, cut into 2 inch strips
2 oz gingko nuts, shelled
2 Tablespoon soy sauce
2 oz mung bean noodles, soaked
1/2 cup “fatt choy” seaweed

1. Soak dried mushrooms (if not using fresh) and lily buds in hot water for 15 minutes.  Trim hard ends off lilies.  Tie a knot through each bud.
2. Thinly slice shiitake and cloud ears.
3. Slice napa cabbage.
4. Heat a large wok.  Add 1 Tablespoon oil and 1/3 of the minced garlic and fry till it sizzles.  Add cabbage, fry for a minute until wilted.  Remove and set aside.
5. Add 1 Tablespoon and remaining garlic and fry till it sizzles.  Add fermented bean curd.  Add the shiitake, and the remaining mushrooms, except for the enoki.  Saute until mushrooms are soft, about 5 minutes.  Add water and bring to boil.
6. Add tofu puffs and yuba and gingko nuts.  Cook 1 minute.  Add soy sauce to taste.
7. Add mung bean noodles and seaweed, bring to boil, or until noodles are translucent.

Serves: 6

Ma Po Do Fu is probably the most popular (or at least the gentrified version is a permanent item in the Chinese take out menu) of Sichuanese cuisine. As many of you know, the “ma” refers to the hot and numbing spice, not some old lady with pock marked face, which the dish is sometimes referred to.  It’s truly a Chinese comfort food.

Chef’s tip: The steps below may look laborious but frankly, I am just trying to line out in great detail the steps in wok cooking.  It literally takes about 5 minutes or less to cook the dish.  This dish employs the classic steps in working with a wok.  The wok is designed so that the hottest part of the pan is the bottom part, that’s where you brown the meat, etc.  The sides of the pan serves as the in between placeholder, where you park parts of the dish while you cook the other parts, before tossing them all back together.  That way, ingredients that need different cooking times get their own special treatment and you come out with the perfect crunch and tenderness.

8 oz ground beef
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon shaoxing wine
1 lb silken tofu
4 tablespoon scallions, white part, chopped

Sauce
1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorn
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons ginger, finely minced
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon shaoxing wine
1 tablespoon chili bean paste
1 tablespoon fermented black beans (optional)

1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar

½ tablespoon cornflour, plus 2 tablespoon water
3 tablespoons scallion, green part

Preparing the meat
1. Mix ground beef with 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce and shaoxing wine.  Set aside

Preparing the vegetable
2. Dry fry the Sichuan peppercorn. Lightly grind peppercorns
3. Chop scallion (white part), ginger and garlic finely, set aside separately
4. Cut bean curd into 1 inch cubes.

Cooking the dish
5. Heat the wok over high heat.  Add the peanut oil followed by the marinated meat.  Drizzle remaining shaoxing wine around the side of the wok.  Fry for 1 minute until meat starts to brown.  Push the meat to the side of the wok.
6. Add chili bean paste, fermented black beans, and fry till the oil is separated, about half a minute.
7. Add chopped garlic, ginger and scallions (white part).  Fry till fragrant – about 30 seconds.  Toss with the meat.
8. Add broth, soy sauce, and sugar
9. Add tofu, stir lightly and bring to boil.  Then lower the heat and simmer 5 minutes.
10. Combine cornstarch with water to make a slurry, add to the sauce, toss to cook until sauce thickens.
11. Add chopped green scallions and crushed Sichuan peppercorns, toss to coat.
Serve immediately.

Serves: 6

Sweet succulent diver scallops, pan seared and topped with crispy bacon in a bacon-miso vinaigrette.   I had better post this recipe before the new year’s resolutions kick in.  Or perhaps the new resolution is to eat more bacon?  Or this may qualify for a salad diet?

Chef’s tip: To make the nutty flavored clarified butter, heat 4 tablespoons of unsalted sweet butter under medium heat till solids separate.  Spoon off the foam, gently pour out the clarified butter leaving the golden brown solids and more liquid moisture behind, if you hadn’t boiled off the watery part of the butter already.  You can pass the clarified butter through a cheesecloth to remove all solids.  Make a large jar of it and store it in the fridge.  Or you can buy clarified butter in a jar, typically labeled as ghee.
To perfectly sear scallops. make sure the scallops are totally at room temperature, pat it dry and salt just before it hits the pan.   Do not move the scallops until the brown crust forms, which will naturally release the scallop.  The temperature of the pan should be medium to hot.  Lastly, look out for the 1/4 inch thick white opaque layer that forms on both side of the seared scallop face.  The middle should be a little translucent, it will cook in its own heat to perfect tender.

Vinaigrette:
4 strips apple smoked bacon
1 small shallot, finely diced, reserve 1 teaspoon
3 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 Tablespoons mirin
1 Tablespoon sherry
3 Tablespoon orange juice
2 Tablespoons white miso
1 teaspoon finely grated ginger
1 teaspoon sugar

16 large diver scallops
2 Tablespoons clarified butter
Kosher salt
White pepper

3 cups baby spinach

1. In a small saucepan, render the bacon till the bacon is somewhat crispy,  remove bacon.
2.  Add chopped shallots to the bacon fat, and sweat shallots under medium low heat until golden brown.  Add rice wine vinegar, mirin, sherry and orange juice and deglaze the pan.  Mix in miso, ginger and sugar.  Let simmer till reduced till half and liquids is thickened.  Add in reserved shallots, set aside.
3. In a cast iron pan, heat clarified butter on medium heat until smoky.  Thoroughly dry the scallops with paper towel, rub with salt and pepper.  Add to the pan and turn up the heat.  Let scallop cook without turning until a brown crust forms or a whitish opaque forms about 1/4 inch up.  Flip the scallops and cook till the opaque white goes up 1/4 inch again on the other side of the scallop.  Remove scallops and set aside.
4. Remove pan from heat, add spinach and toss to warm but not wilt the spinach.  Add half the vinaigrette when tossing.
5.  Place a serving of spinach on a plate, top with 4 scallops and sprinkle with reserved bacon.  Drizzle in a tablespoon of vinaigrette.

Serves: 4

Once upon a time, a very long time ago, I used to sell toothpaste in China. We were introducing the Colgate Red into China and I was tasked with the “smaller” markets — those cities with less than 5 million population.  On our launch into Chongqing, I remember walking the slopes of the city (it’s as hilly as San Francisco), supposedly to check out the toothpaste market, but I was mesmerized by the spice markets.  Mounds and mounds of chili and peppers — bright red, dark red, fiery red everywhere.  The air was even spicy! Then we came across this street peddler who was dishing out Liang Fen.  Using a hand grater, he “grated” noodles out of a basin of rice jello, and ladled on a red spicy sauce on top.   That was totally ingenious the way he made the noodles.

Liang Fen is a great starter dish and my favorite Sichuan dish.  Slippery, cool and slightly springy, it’s the canvas for the fiery and numbing sauce.  Sichuan or more commonly misspelt Szechuan cuisine is distinctly unique for its use of hot, numbing spices and lots of fresh vegetables as the province is the vegetable bowl for China.  The Sichuan peppercorn is really a prickly ash, not at all related to regular black pepper.  It has a floral and woody aroma, but its most outstanding feature is how it gives a numbing feeling to your mouth.  One may wonder why in the world would you want that feeling in your food, I find it hard to explain or describe but it does give a nice kick, and an addictive one indeed.  Once banned from the United States, you can now easily find the spice even in your local Wholefoods, or at least local to the Bay Area, thanks to a fusion foods fad a couple of years ago pushing the spice to a ranking in the top 10 must try for the year by Bon Appetit or one of those magazines.

Chef’s tip: Mung bean starch has good nutritional value.  You can easily find it at Korean grocery stores.  To cook it, make sure you stir continuously till it become translucent, otherwise, it will still be raw.  I prefer to use the Sichuan peppercorn oil, too.  It gives the same effect without the coarseness of the peppercorn.  You can omit the tahini for a cleaner tasting sauce.

Noodles

4 cups + 2 tablespoons water

¾ cup mung bean starch*

Sauce

3 tablespoons tahini + 3 tablespoons water (more if tahini is thick)

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinkiang vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground toasted Sichuan peppercorn, or Sichuan peppercorn oil

1 teaspoon ginger juice

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Asian chili oil

½ tablespoon sesame oil

1 stalk green onions, green parts only, julienned into 1 inch strips

Finishing oil:

1 teaspoon Asian chili oil

½ teaspoon sesame oil

Preparing the noodle

1. Mix starch with 1 ½ cups of water till starch is fully dissolved.  Mix in remaining water.
2. Bring to boil, stirring constantly till the mixture thickens.  It’s easiest to stir from the center out. Stir until the mixture is clear and translucent.  About 4 minutes total.
3. Immediately pour mixture into a wet, glass or ceramic dish, about 9X12 inch, making a thin 3/8 inch layer.
4. Leave to cool for 45 minutes in the fridge or 2 hours at room temperature.
5. When set, cut noodles 6 X ½ X ¼ inch strips

Preparing the sauce

1. Mix together the sauce ingredients in a bowl.

Assembly:

1. Pour sauce over the noodles and toss to coat.  Finish with a little chili oil and sesame oil.  Garnish with green onions.

Serves: 6

Note: To make your own chili oil, use the recipe below:

Chili oil with chili flakes

½ cup of dried chili flakes

2 cups of peanut oil

1. Put chili flakes in a glass preserving jar (or pyrex)
2. Heat the oil until smoking hot
3. Allow to cool 5 mins
4. Pour into the jar

* Can be found in Asian stores

I just can’t get enough of the dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes.  You can have it in a classic Caprese or top it on top of a good slice of crostini to make a light dinner.

Chef’s tip: To chiffonade basil, stack the leaves.  Roll tightly into a compact cylinder.  Using a sharp knife, slice thinly horizontally across the roll.  Fluff up the basil.

1 loaf sour battard, cut into 8 thick slices
The best EVOO you have
2 cloves garlic

2 lbs Early Girl tomatoes, preferably from Two Dog Farm
Your favorite sea salt
1 lb Goia burrata
16 basil leaves, chiffonade
Freshly ground black pepper

To make the crostini:
1.  Slice bread into 3/8 inch thick pieces. Place bread slices on a sheet pan, brush one side with olive oil.
2.  Bake in a 375F oven for 7-10 minutes until golden brown. Immediately rub with a piece of garlic.
To make the caprese salad:
3.  Squeeze tomatoes of excess juice.  Cut into small dice.
4. Toss with salt and some extra virgin olive oil.
Assembling:
5. Spoon tomatoes over the crostini.  Sprinkle on basil.  Top with a generous portion of burrata.
6. Finish with more olive oil, salt and pepper.

Serves: 4

This summer, I welcomed the arrival of my twin boys.  In Chinese tradition (or rather, Malaysian Chinese tradition) there is a post natal resting period of 30-days which we refer to as the “confinement period” where the new mother rests and eats all sorts of food that serve to replenish the blood and energy lost at child birth and to nourish the body to take care of the newborn.  In true tradition speak, the foods removes “wind”, cools down the “heat” and cleanses the body of blood clots.  Most of the food is cooked with sesame oil and lots of ginger. For 30-days, the new mother is not supposed to go out or even take a shower (yeah, right!).  My mother cooked me some of these classic “confinement” foods, which I think is absolutely delicious; baby or not.  Here is her recipe. Some folks may not subscribe to having that “much” wine while breastfeeding, I hope the simmering will burn off the alcohol.

Chef’s tip: Traditionally the expectant mother will make her own rice wine aka moonshine by soaking some of the special yeast with cooked glutinous rice and some wine.  I just used Japanese sake.

1 cup dried wood ear fungus, soaked, trimmed, cut into strips
2 Tablespoons sesame oil
1 hand ginger, peeled, and cut into thin juliennes
4 pieces of chicken thigh, boneless, skinless and trimmed of all fat
3 cups rice wine
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1.  Soak the wood ear fungus till tender.  Trim off hard stems and cut into strips.
2. In a wok or a heavy bottom saucepan, heat sesame oil on medium heat.  Add ginger, saute for 1 minute until fragrant.
3. Add chicken pieces and brown chicken, about 3 minutes.
4. Add wine and bring to boil.  Add salt.  Turn heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.

Serves: ahem, 1 new mom

This is my family’s staple dish.  A simple soy sauce braised chicken flavored with ginger and wine.  It tastes better if eaten the next day, so make a whole big pot of it.

In Malaysia, the dark soy sauce has caramel in it, making it thicker, sweeter with a blackstrap molasses-like smoky flavor.  We call it “hak you” literally translated to “black oil”.  My mom puts a dash of this black magic into almost all her dishes.   It’s also an excellent condiment with hard boiled eggs, fried Chinese sausage, cold tofu, etc.  You get it – we put it on everything.  I also remember eating hot steaming white rice tossed with a tab of butter or a tablespoon of pork lard (crunchies included) and the hak you, and when money was tight, we’d throw in a raw egg into the hot rice and call it a meal.

Chef’s tip: It’s all about the humble “hak you” dark soy sauce!  If you can’t find it, use the Indonesian kicap or Chinese dark soy, but add a little more sugar to the dish.

3 chicken legs (drumstick and thigh), about 2 lbs
5 cloves garlic, skin-on slightly smashed
3 inches ginger, peeled, sliced
3 Tablespoons sesame oil
3 Tablespoons light soy sauce
2 Tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup sherry or Chinese rice wine
1/4 cup water

1. Heat a wok on medium high.  Add sesame oil, when about to smoke, add ginger and garlic.  “Pow” or stir fry for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
2. Add chicken pieces and brown chicken.
3. Add soy sauces and sugar and toss to coat.  Add sherry and water, cover and simmer under low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add a little more water if it dries out.

Rice porridge “jook” is an all day food, although typically eaten at breakfast.  Some people like their jook simple with only one choice of meat, others may add a whole enchilada of meats, pickles and vegetables. There is a popular “whole hog” version that essentially includes all parts of the pig such as large intestines croutons, red tofu – quite literally from head to tail except for the meat – before whole hog dining became trendy!

The recipe below is a base recipe for jook.

Chef’s tip:  Soaking the rice overnight helps create a smooth porridge.    Some folks believe that if you add a handful of cooked rice to the raw rice, it makes for an even starchier consistency.  If you prefer a heavier consistency, reduce the amounts of liquid.

1/2 cup jasmine or arborio rice
1 Tablespoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons canola oil
4 cups chicken broth
4 cups water

Serves: 4

1. Rinse rice. Soak rice with salt and oil overnight in 2 cups water.
2. In a large pot, add rice with soaking water, broth and remaining water.
3. Bring to boil and turn down heat. Simmer for 1-1 1/2 hour, stirring occasionally until the rice breaks down and forms a smooth gruel.  Stir occasionally to help breakdown the rice morsels.

Variations:
For chicken jook, add sliced chicken that is marinated with sesame oil, soy sauce and a little corn starch.    Bring to a boil until chicken is cooked, about 3 minutes.  Serve with juliened fresh ginger, green onions, generous sprinkling of white pepper, a dash of sesame oil and fried garlic crisps.

For fish jook, placed sliced white fish onto a serving bowl with some ginger and white pepper. Ladle on some boiling jook.  Bring back to boil and remove from heat.  Serve immediately with julienned fresh ginger, green onions, generous sprinkling of white pepper and soy sauce.

For meatballs jook, mix ground pork with some sesame oil, soy sauce and white pepper. Using 2 teaspoons, form meatballs and drop into some boiling jook. Bring back to boil until meatballs float to the top.  Serve with julienned fresh ginger, green onions, generous sprinkling of white pepper, a dash of sesame oil and soy sauce.

The options for toppings are endless – from thousand year old eggs to pickled mustard, fried baby anchovies and peanuts to smoked tofu, pork liver, etc.

Yum! Another dumpling to add to your repertoire.  This dim sum uses store-bought siu mai skins.

Chef’s tip: You can use the potsticker skins (which is thicker) or just wonton skins (which is thinner) depending on your preference.  I find that placing the dumplings tightly together holds the shape better.

1 package of siu mai round wrappers, about 30 pieces
2 salted duck egg yolk (optional)

Filling:
4 oz raw shrimp, shelled and deveined, chopped (about 10 size 31/40 shrimp)
8 oz ground pork
1 cup / 5 oz canned water chestnut, chopped finely (about 10 water chestnut)
3 tablespoon scallions, white part, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger (bottled)
3 tablespoon soy sauce
4 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or pale dry sherry
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 tablespoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
A twist of black pepper

1 large thick carrot, cut into thin rounds

Preparing the filling
1.    Mix all the ingredients together.
Assembling
2.    Place the wrapper in your palm. Place 1 teaspoon of filling into wrapper.
3.    Gather up the edges of the wrapper.  Hold the dumpling between your thumb and your fingers, lightly squeezing it to form a cup.  Squeeze with your index finger to form a waist.  Use a spatula to push the filling down.
4.    Flatten the base by tapping on a floured surface. Smooth the top with a knife dipped with water.
5.    Top with a small dot of duck egg,
6.    Placed onto a steamer, setting each dumpling on a slice of carrot rounds.
Steaming
7.    Steam over simmering water for 15 minutes. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 6

This is a very typical Hakka dish.  The “Hakka” people (translated as “guest people”) are migrants from the countrysides of Guangdong and several central Chinese provinces and settled in a small area near the east river in Guangdong.  The Hakka cuisine incorporates a lot of pickled and fermented produce (given refrigeration and fresh produce a luxury when you are movig from place to place).

My mom is visiting from Malaysia and she is sharing her recipe.  Over the course of dinner last night, I found out how much “Hakka” heritage I have.  My maternal grandfather is Hakka from “Kah Hing Zhou” group, and my paternal grandfather, who was adopted into a “Hokkien” aka Fujianese family, was originally also from a Hakka family, too.

Chef’s tip: There are two kinds of pickled mustard.  One is sugar-pickled, the other is salt-pickled.  This recipe calls for the sugar-pickled mustard, which is lighter in color.  Of course, you can only find these in Asian grocery stores.

4 bunches sugar-pickled mui choy (pickled mustard), about 1 lb
1 lb pork belly
3 cloves garlic
2 Tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
2 cups water

1. Soak and rinse pickled mustard under several changes of cold water until no more sandy.
2. Drain and squeeze dry.  Chop into 1/2 inch pieces
3. Cut pork into  thick slices about 1/2 inch thick
4. Smash whole clove garlic lightly, with skin on, leaving garlic somewhat whole
5. Heat oil in a heavy saute pan, add garlic and pork and saute for 3 minutes until fragrant, then add chopped mustard.  Stir together, cook for 5 minutes.  Add dark soy sauce.
6. Add water, cover, bring to boil, then simmer under low heat for 30 minutes. (or if you use a crock pot, simmer for 2 hours).

The “har gau” shrimp dumpling is the all-time favorite dim sum dish and a must at any yum-cha.   The “crystal” skin is made from wheat starch (not flour), which you can find in Asian grocery stores. Look up our series of dim sum recipes to make a fun variety of these little small plates.

Chef’s tip:  It is essential to use *boiling* water when making the dumpling dough.  The boiling water cooks the starch which acts as a binder when kneading in the rest of the flour.  Work quickly.  It may be hot, so use a wooden spoon when you mix the starch and shortening to form a ball.

Dumpling Dough:
1 1/2 cups wheat starch
2 tablespoons tapioca starch
1 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon vegetable shortening

Filling:
¼ cup / 2 oz canned bamboo shoots, rinsed and minced
½ lb raw shrimp, shelled and deveined (about 20 size 31/40 shrimp)

2 tablespoon scallions, minced
2 tablespoon cilantro, minced
½ tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or pale dry sherry
½ tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
A pinch of white pepper

Napa or savoy cabbage leaves

Preparing the dough.
1.    Combine the wheat starch and the tapioca starch. Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring until a ball forms.
2.    Cool a little, while still warm, stir in the shortening, a little at a time.  Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until soft and smooth.
3.    Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a 1 inch cylinder.
4.    Cut each cylinder into ¾ inch pieces. Roll into a ball. You should have about 30 pieces. Cover as you work.
5.    Cover dough with a damp tea cloth for 15 minutes.
Preparing the filling
6.    Cut half the shrimp into 1/3 in cubes, and mince the rest
7.    Mix all the ingredients together.
Assembling
8.    Take a dough portion, work into a round ball, flatten it into a 3 1/2 inch round, about 1/8 inch thick with a rolling pin.
9.    Place the wrapper in your palm. Place 1 teaspoon of filling into dough.  Spread a little water on the edge. Fold into half to make a crescent moon.
10.    Using your thumb, form little pleats the top edge, and press the two layers together to seal.  Gently tap the bottom of the pouch make a little purse.
11.    Placed onto a steamer that is lined with cabbage leaves.
Steaming
12.    Steam over simmering water for 6-8 minutes or until the dumplings are translucent. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 6

Nothing beats a classic mac and cheese.  I like to use Gruyere for its nutty flavor, but you can use any good melting cheese like a sharp cheddar or for a milder flavor, to wean your child from Kraft’s box mac ‘n cheese, a Monterey Jack.

Chef’s tip: The key to making a bechamel sauce is making a good roux, followed by tempering the milk into the roux.  Heating the milk and adding it a little at a time will ensure a smooth sauce.

Mac and Cheese:

1 lb macaroni or pasta shape of choice
1 Tablespoon butter

4 cups whole milk (for richer flavor, use half & half or heavy cream)
6 Tablespoons (1 1/2 stick) unsalted butter
6 Tablespoons all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 teaspoon paprika (optional)
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

4 cups (12 ounces) Gruyere or a sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
Some butter to grease a 13X9X2 baking dish or 8  1 large ramekins
1 cup coarse, good quality breadcrumbs
1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated

Preheat the oven 350°F
1. Preparing the pasta:  Bring a large pot of water to boil.  Add 1 Tablespoon kosher salt.  Add macaroni and cook at a rolling boil until al dente, about 6 minutes. Drain and toss with 1 Tablespoon of butter.
Preparing the sauce:
2. Bring milk/ cream to just about simmer or when steam begins to form.  Set aside.
3. Make a roux:  In a heavy saucepan, melt 6 Tablespoons butter over medium heat.  Do not brown the butter.  Remove from heat, sprinkle in flour and stir with a whisk or a wooden spoon then return to medium heat, while stirring continuously for 3 minutes. Remove from heat.
4. Make a bechamel sauce: Add the hot milk to the flour mixture, in small batches and whisk well.  Add salt, pepper, paprika and nutmeg.  Return the pan to medium heat and cook, whisking constantly until the sauce thickens and smooth, about 5 minutes.
Assembling the mac and cheese:
5.  Add macaroni to the sauce, add half the shredded cheese mixture and toss well to coat.
6. Butter a oven-proof baking dish or ramekins.  Pour the pasta mixture into the baking dish.  Distribute remaining shredded cheese on top, followed by the breadcrumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
7. Bake at 350° for 20-25 minutes or until bubbly.  Remove from oven.
8. Place the dish under the broiler, 4 inches from the heat, for 2 minutes, or until top is golden brown and bubbly.

Serves 8.

The last in our series on Zongzi, please refer to the first post on the series for wrapping and boiling instructions.  Happy wrapping!

Chef’s tip: For the full detailed instructions on how to fold the dumpling and boiling the dumplings, please refer to the Cantonese Joong recipe for the leaf template and step by step instructions.

Sweet Joong

4 ½ cups glutinous sweet rice, soaked, drained
4 ½ teaspoons baking soda. sifted (or 2 tablespoon alkaline “lye” water)

Red bean paste
1 cup of Adzuki red beans, soaked, drained
3/4 cup sugar or more to taste
3 pandan leave (optional), each tied into a knot
¼ cup of canola oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt

4 pandan leaves, cut into 1 inch length
72 pieces bamboo leaves
24 pieces yard-long kitchen twine

Preparing the ingredients the night before
1.    Wash rice.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the top of the rice, and soak overnight.
2.    Pick over red beans, rinse, cover with 2 inches of water over the top & soak overnight.
3.    Soak bamboo leaves in hot water overnight.  Next morning, scrub with brush and rinse several times to remove dirt.  Leave leaves in water till ready to use.
Preparing the red bean paste filling
4.    Place beans in a pot with 2 pieces of the pandan.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the beans and simmer 1-1 ½ hours till beans have softened.  Add more water if needed.  Drain.
5.    Puree beans in a food processor.
6.    In a non stick pan, heat oil, add sugar and the pureed beans and 1 pandan.
7.    Constantly stir the paste. Cook for 10 minutes until the bean paste is dry.
Preparing the rice
8.    Drain rice, sprinkle baking soda over the rice and mix well, let sit 5 minutes.  Rice should turn slightly yellow.
Wrapping the dumpling (see detailed instructions section)
9.    Prepare bamboo cone.
10.    Place 1 tablespoon rice into the cone.  Make a slight well, then place 2 tablespoons of red bean paste and top with 1½ tablespoons of rice.  Pack all ingredients lightly as you add them.  Smooth the top with a clean wet spoon.
11.    Cover the rice with 2 pieces of pandan squares
12.    Complete wrapping and secure leaves with kitchen twine.
NOTE: Sweet dumplings are packed and tied loosely so that the rice will have space to expand and it will be soft
Cooking
13.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Gently place the dumplings in and boil for 60 minutes over medium slow fire. Add water constantly to ensure the dumplings are always submerged in water.
14.    When cooked, remove the dumplings and place in a colander to dry.
15.    Serve with brown sugar or palm sugar syrup on the side, if you’d like.

Makes 24 pieces

* Note: The leftover cooking liquid (plus a little of the beans) makes an excellent Chinese dessert – “hongdou shui”.  Add sugar to taste.  Serve hot with a tablespoon of coconut milk.

This is the last of the series on savory Zongzi.  By now, you should be getting the folding instructions and methods down.  Here is just a list of the regional variations you can do.

Chef’s tip: For the full detailed instructions on how to fold the dumpling and boiling the dumplings, please refer to the Cantonese Joong recipe for the leaf template and step by step instructions.

Taiwanese-style
Pork belly
Salted duck egg yolk
Shiitake
Chestnut
Scallions
Fried shallots
Dried shrimp
Peanuts
Five spice powder

Sichuan-style
Pork belly
Pumpkin slices
Sichuan peppercorn
White pepper

Fujian-style
Pork belly / chicken
Chinese sausage
Salted duck egg yolk
Shiitake
Dried shrimp
Chestnut
Five spice powder

Shanghainese-style
Pork belly
Soy sauce
Dark soy sauce
Rice wine
Cinnamon stick
Star anise
Five-spice powder

Continuing the series on different types of Chinese rice dumplings, this Nyonya version features the intricate flavor depths of typical Nyonya cuisine with a hint of sweet, salty and spicy.

Chef’s tip: For the full detailed instructions on how to fold the dumpling and boiling the dumplings, please refer to the Cantonese Joong recipe for the leaf template and step by step instructions.

Nyonya “Chang”

Ingredients

3 cups glutinous sweet rice, soaked, drained
1 ¼ cup coconut milk, mix with 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Spice paste:
4 Tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black peppercorn
12 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoon galangal, minced
2 tablespoon canola oil

12 pieces fresh shiitake, stems removed, diced into small cubes
12 oz ground pork
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup of candied wintermelon (optional)
½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped

4 pandan leaves, cut into 1 inch length
72 pieces bamboo leaves
24 pieces yard-long kitchen twine

Preparing the ingredients the night before
1.    Wash rice.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the top of the rice, and soak overnight.
2.    Soak bamboo leaves in hot water overnight.  Next morning, scrub with brush and rinse several times to remove dirt.  Leave leaves in water till ready to use.
Preparing the rice
3.    Drain rice, place on a metal/glass plate and steam 20 minutes.
4.    Drizzle coconut milk over the rice, and steam another 10 minutes.
Preparing the filling
5.    Saute spice paste together till fragrant, 3 minutes.  Add mushroom and pork, salt and sugar and cook 3 minutes.
6.    Add winter melon, and cook another 30 seconds.  Remove from heat, stir in chopped peanuts.
Wrapping the dumpling (see detailed instructions section)
7.    Prepare bamboo cone.
8.    Place ½ tablespoon rice into the cone.  Make a slight well, then place 2 tablespoons of pork mix and top with 1 ½ tablespoons of rice.  Pack all ingredients tightly as you add them.  Flatten the top with a clean wet spoon.
9.    Cover the rice with 2 pieces of pandan squares
10.    Complete wrapping and secure leaves with kitchen twine.
Cooking
11.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Add 1 tablespoon salt.  Gently place the dumplings in and boil for 30-60 minutes over medium slow fire. Add water constantly to ensure the dumplings are always submerged in water.
12.    When cooked, remove the dumplings and place in a colander to dry.
13.    Serve with sugar or chili sauce on the side, if you’d like.

Makes 24 pieces

Dragon Boat Festival / Tuen Ng Jit / Duan Wu Jie is coming up — the 5th day of the 5th month of the Lunar Calendar translating to May 28th, 2009 this year.  “Zongzi” is the pyramid shaped rice dumplings wrapped with bamboo leaves – frequently called “Chinese tamales” this side of the Pacific.  Some stories have it that the dragon boat crew threw the dumplings into the river to distract/ feed the monsters so that they can get on with the rowing.

It takes a lot of practice to get the dumplings to the right shape and compactness, hence I am posting these recipes early so that you will have time to practice in the run up to the festival.  I am also going to post under separate posts the different regional variation of the dumplings….starting with the Cantonese version.

Chef’s tip: Using 3 pieces of leaves to wrap the dumplings make it a little easier.  Attached is the zongzi leaf template you can use, complete with detailed step by step instructions on positioning the leaves and the origami moves you need.

Cantonese “Joong”

Ingredients

3 cups glutinous sweet rice, soaked, drained, add 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoon oil
¾ cup peeled, mung beans, soaked, drained, add ½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon oil

12 oz pork belly/ pork butt, diced ½ inch cubes
Seasoning:
1 Tablespoon Chinese five spice powder
1 Tablespoon Chinese rice wine
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 Tablespoon canola oil

12 pieces fresh shiitake, stems removed, sliced finely
Seasoning:
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon white pepper

12 salted duck egg yolks, cut into 2
24 pieces of baby chestnut, or 12 large

72 pieces bamboo leaves
24 pieces yard-long kitchen twine

Preparing the ingredients the night before
1.    Wash rice.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the top of the rice, and soak overnight.
2.    Pick over mung beans, rinse, cover with 2 inches of water over the top & soak overnight.
3.    Soak bamboo leaves in hot water overnight.  Next morning, scrub with brush and rinse several times to remove dirt.  Leave leaves in water till ready to use.
Preparing the filling
4.    Dice pork, mix with seasoning.  Set aside.
5.    Sliced mushrooms, mix with seasoning. Set aside.
Prepare the ingredients mise en place
6.    Drain rice, add salt and oil.  Set aside.*
7.    Drain mung beans, add salt and oil.  Set aside.*
8.    Separate yolks and cut into two.  Set aside.
9.    Cut large chestnuts into two.  Set aside.
Wrapping the dumpling (see Zongzi Leaf Template or detailed instructions section below)
10.    Prepare bamboo cone.
11.    Place ½ tablespoon rice into the cone.  Make a slight well, then place 1 heaping tablespoon of pork, ½ tablespoon mushroom, ½ egg yolk, and half a chestnut.  Followed by 1 tablespoon mungbean and 1 tablespoon of rice.  Pack all ingredients tightly as you add them.  Flatten the top with a clean wet spoon.
12.    Complete wrapping and secure leaves with kitchen twine.
Cooking
13.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Add 1 tablespoon salt.  Gently place the dumplings in and boil for 1 1/2 – 2 hours over medium slow fire. Add water constantly to ensure the dumplings are always submerged in water.
14.    When cooked, remove the dumplings and hang to dry.
15.    Serve with sugar or chili sauce on the side, if you’d like.

Makes 24 pieces
* To speed cooking, steam rice for 20 minutes, drizzle with 1 ¼ cup of chicken stock, steam another 10 minutes.  Also steam mungbeans for 15 minutes.  Boil dumplings for 30-60 minutes.

Detailed Dumpling wrapping – Download the zongzi leaf template for the leaf stencil. The first and second page are set up to print on both sides.

A.    Take two bamboo leaves, overlap offsetting each other by ½ inch along the length of the leave. The stems to the left, and the tips to the right, with the 2nd leave closest to you.  (A1 reads above A2)

B.    At a point 1 inch from the top edge and 1 inch off the middle cross-section (Point B) fold leaves into a conical shape – there should be no opening at the tip of the cone.

C.    The tips should be parallel to the stems, and are lower than the stems. (C1 aligns with C2, with C2 on the upper fold)

Fill the cone, packing tightly as you fill.  Flatten the top with a clean wet spoon.

D.    Take a third piece of leave, insert the tip end in between the back fold on the right.  (D1 aligns with D2), and cup the dumpling, with ½ inch offset along the edge (both Ds are visible at the base)

E.    With the triangle facing you, fold the third leave at the base of your palm towards the filling (E)

F.    Next, fold the 3 pieces of tips on the right towards the filling (F)

G.    Then, fold the stems on the left side towards the filling (G)

H.    Lastly, fold down the remaining leaves towards you. (H) and wrap around the pyramid.

I.    Quickly loop a piece of kitchen twine around the dumpling (along the spine of the leaves) to secure leaves in place.  Wind twine around dumpling tightly.  If necessary add, a second piece of string along a different axis.

NOTE:
o    For savory dumplings, pack, wrap and tie tightly so that the filling will not separate from the rice.
o    For sweet dumplings, pack loosely, wrap and tie loosely so that the rice will have space to expand and it will be soft.
o    The longer you boil the dumpling, the softer it will become.  Boil a minimum of 30 minutes if you pre-steam some of the ingredients, otherwise, 1 ½ hours.  A perfect boil is about 2 ½ hours.

I first tasted kuku at my friend’s Tammy’s dinner party.  Not knowing what it was called or its origin, I remembered it was absolutely tasty and exploding with herbal freshness.  Tammy is my citizen du monde friend — from the Bay Area to Chicago, New York, London and now Paris….like those ad taglines for high end perfume.  But it was really from her Persian background, as I found out years later….although I still didn’t know what it was called. In a casual conversion with my Persian neighbor in the laundry room, I learned it was called kuku and eaten during the Persian new year.  That’s when the kuku exploration began.

Kuku is essentially a Persian fritata.  Many Middle Eastern stores sell a kuku mix, and the advieh mix.  But you can make your own from scratch.  Just make sure you use all fresh herbs….the dried ones are just not the same.

Chef Tips: Make your own Advieh with this recipe: In a coffee /spice grinder, add 1 X cardamom, cumin, ginger and dried rose petals, 2X cinnamon and 0.5X cloves and grind into a fine powder.

6 eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 tablespoons Persian Advieh
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 cup garlic greens, chopped
1 cup parsley, chopped
1 cup cilantro, chopped
1 cup fresh dill, chopped
1/2 cup mint, chopped
2 tablespoons dried barberries, reconstituted

2 Tablespoons clarified butter or olive oil
1 Tablespoon dried fenugreek

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
2. Break the eggs into a large bowl. Add the baking powder, flour, advieh, salt, and pepper. Lightly beat in the chopped garlic, herbs and barberries.
3. Using a 10-inch oven-proof  skillet, melt butter.  Add fenugreek until the fenugreek pops.  Turn down the heat a bit. Add the eggs and herbs mixture and cook over medium-low heat — gently stir in the beginning then run a spatula underneath the sides of the omelet and tilt the pan so the uncooked eggs slide to the underside.   Cook until the eggs are just set.
4. Place the skillet in the oven and bake for about 5 minutes, or until well set and puffy. Remove from oven, slide kuku onto a large plate, cut into wedges and serve.

Serves: 4

I read in this month’s Saveur that Penang is having its international food festival this week where the celebration is Penang’s foodways.  First of all, in food-obssessed Penang, every day is a celebration of food.  In the same blurb, it described the local specialty, Assam Laksa, as aromatic, tamarind-based fish noodle soup.  Hard to imagine with such a description what the dish really is – except for those in the know.  My mouth starts to water at the thought of the tang, sour, saltiness and spicyness of the beloved noodle dish.

Chef’s tip: You can find fresh tamarind in the pods at Asian, Indian, Latin markets and Whole Foods.  To prepare tamarind, peel off the tough outer skin of the tamarind pod.  Place the flesh, seeds and veins in a bowl and add some warm water.  Using your hands, gently massage the tamarind to dissolve it.  Sieve.  You can also find tamarind in the block at Asian markets, which is essentially the peeled version.  Tamraind concentrate in the bottle is a lot more sour than fresh tamarind, so start with half the amount.

Ingredients:

1 lb bluefish (Traditionally mackerel, otherwise, any oily flaky fish)

Spice Paste:
6 dried Japanese chilies or 3 fresh red jalapeno
2 pieces of lemongrass
5 shallots
1 tablespoon roasted belachan
¼ cup of canola oil for frying

Soup:
1/2 cup tamarind pulp (including seeds) + 1 cup warm water
6 cups water or fish stock (use fish bouillon if necessary)
5 pieces of dried tamarind slices
4 stalks laksa leaves
Salt to taste (at least a few pinchfuls of salt)
2 teaspoons sugar

Toppings:
1 cup of shredded English cucumber
1 red jalapeno
½ red onion
1 cup of fresh pineapples
1 cup of mint leaves, whole
2 tablespoons laksa leaves, finely minced

12 oz thick fresh rice noodles (lai fun) or 6 oz dried rice vermicelli

1 lime, preferably calamansi
2 Tablespoon haeko

Preparing the fish
1.    Steam the fish until opaque and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Reserve fish stock.
2.    When cooled, remove bones and skin, coarsely flake the fish with a fork.
Preparing the spice paste
3.    Grind together spice paste ingredients in a food processor until smooth.  Set aside.
Preparing the laksa soup base
4.    Peel tamarind.  Mash tamarind flesh in 1 cup of warm water.  Remove solids, reserve juice.
5.    Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat until just hot.  Stir in spice paste. Cook, stirring constantly, until the red oil separates from the spice paste about 8 to 10 minutes.
6.    Lower the heat, slowly add tamarind paste, water, fish stock, tamarind slices and laksa leaves and bring to a slow simmer, stirring constantly.  Simmer for at 20-30 minutes.  Add salt and sugar to taste.  Remove tamarind slices and laksa leaves. Just before serving, add the flaked fish.
Preparing the vegetables
7.    Finely julienne cucumber, jalapeno, slice the red onion and cut pineapples into small wedges.
8.    Mince the laksa leaves.
Preparing the noodles
9.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Add salt and oil.  Blanch rice vermicelli quickly – a few seconds.
Assembly
10.    In a small bowl, mix hae-ko shrimp paste with 2 tablespoon warm water
11.    Place a serving of noodles and vegetables in bowls and ladle laksa broth over.
12.    Serve with halved limes and a dollop of hae-ko.

This is a classic chicken curry, Chinese Malaysian-style.  It goes really well with tumeric sticky rice.

Chef’s tip: Curry powder is commonly used in Malaysia, the concoction is similar to Sri Lankan curry powder.  Here’s a recipe to make your own curry powder.

Ingredients
6 pieces chicken legs with thighs, bones and skin on
2 tablespoons curry powder

3 small Russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 2-inch wedges
2 cups canola oil

Spice paste:
5 red jalapeno chilies, seeded
8 shallots
3 stalks lemon grass
1 inch galangal
1 inch fresh turmeric / 1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 tablespoon roasted belacan
5 candlenuts

Sauce:
¼ cup canola oil
5 sprigs curry leaves
1 cup water
3 cups coconut milk, reserve 1 cup of the cream
2 tablespoons kosher salt, to taste

Marinating the chicken:
1.    Rub the curry powder over the chicken
Preparing the potatoes
2.    Peel the potatoes and cut each into 4 pieces. Pat dry.
3.    Heat a skillet with about 2-inch of oil.  Fry the potatoes till it is golden on the outside.  Remove and set aside.  The potatoes need not be cooked through.
Preparing the spice paste
4.    Roughly chop up all the spice paste ingredients (except lemongrass and galangal that needs to be finely chopped).
5.    Place all spice paste ingredients in a food processor and grind into a fine paste.
Cooking the curry
6.    Heat about ¼ cup of oil in a pot on medium high.  Add the spice paste and curry leaves fry till fragrant and red, about 5 minutes.
7.    Add the marinated chicken and fry for about 3 minutes.
8.    Add 1 cup water and 2 cups of coconut milk and salt.  Simmer for about 10 minutes
9.    Add the fried potatoes and reserved 1 cup coconut milk, and simmer uncovered until chicken is tender and gravy has thicken, about 30 minutes-45 minutes.  Let sit for 15 minutes before serving.

Serves: 6

Chef’s tip: Starch cooks translucent.  The minute it turns clear, it no longer taste powdery.

6 eggs
½ teaspoon kosher salt

Batter
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese wine
½ teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoon tapioca/ potato starch
1 tablespoon rice flour
8 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon kosher salt

3 tablespoons canola oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup cilantro leaves
White pepper

½ cup green onions, chopped
12 oysters, shucked, drained
1 Tablespoon fish sauce

1.    Whisk the eggs with salt. Set aside.
2.    In another bowl, whisk batter ingredients together.
3.    Heat a large non stick pan over medium heat until hot.
4.    Add  2 tablespoons oil, followed by the batter and cook for a  minute until translucent, stirring continuously
5.    Pour in the eggs, allow the eggs to cook for half a minute, then stir inwards to let the runny eggs go to the bottom of the pan to make an omelet
6.    When eggs have somewhat thickened, make a whole in the center
7.    Add 1 tablespoon oil, the minced garlic and fry for a 10 seconds until the garlic is fragrant
8.    Add in the oysters and the seasoning mixture.  Sprinkle in chopped green onions.
9.    Stir the eggs over the oyster mixture.  Drizzle on fish sauce.
11.    Garnish with cilantro leaves, sprinkle with more white pepper and serve with Chili Garlic Sauce

Serves: 6

Of the many different types of curries in Malaysia, the rendang is the most loved.  The rendang is always the star of any kenduris (wedding ceremonies) or raya (Id) festivities.  It’s a very dry curry with sweet tones of toasted coconut.  Slow cook it till it’s fork-tender.

Chef’s tip: To toast coconut, use a dry skillet and toss it frequently over medium heat.  Alternatively, pop it into a 350F oven for 5 minutes.

½ cup of finely shredded desiccated coconut

Spice paste:
10 red jalapeno chilies
2 shallots
2 cloves garlic
3 stalks lemon grass
1 inch ginger
1 inch galangal
2 candlenuts

Whole spices:
1 cinnamon stick (about 2 inch)
3 cloves
4 whole star anise
2 cardamon pods
2 pieces daun salam

¼  cup canola oil

2 lbs beef cubes – cuts for stewing, briskets, cubed

2 cups thick coconut milk

1 slice of asam gelugur* tamarind/ ½ tablespoon fresh lime juice
4 pieces of kaffir lime leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt, to taste
1 tablespoon sugar

1.    Toast coconut till golden brown in an oven or in a pan.  Set aside.
2.    Using a food processor, grind all spice paste ingredients into a paste
3.    Heat oil on medium high.  Fry paste and  whole spices till fragrant, red and oil has separated, about 5-7 minutes
4.    Add beef  and fry for about 3 minutes till brown.
5.   Add coconut milk, finely shredded kaffir lime leaves, tamarind slice, salt and sugar, and braise uncovered on low, stirring occasionally, until beef is tender and gravy has thicken, about 2 hours depending on beef cut till fork tender.
8.    Mix in toasted coconut.

Serves: 6

This is an adaptation of Ubuntu’s Cauliflower in a Cast Iron Pot.  It’s a little less creamy, and  a little easier to accomplish and more accessible without the vadouvan while still accomplishing the creamy sweetness of the cauliflower.

Chef’s tip: Making brown butter is a two step process. First, melt the butter to separate the solids and moisture.  Then bring it to brown to a rosy hazelnut color.

1 head cauliflower
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large shallot, diced finely
1 Tablespoon Madras curry powder
1 cup 2% milk
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup flat leaf parsley, chopped
2 8-oz ramekins

1. Trim cauliflower, and slice the cauliflower into 1/4 inch thick slabs.  Break them up with your hands into bite size.
2. Preheat oven 400F.  Toss 3/4 of the cauliflower with olive oil and salt.  Roast in the oven till brown bits form.  About 40 minutes.
3. In a small saucepot, melt the butter, removing the foam.  When butter begins to brown, add shallots and saute till golden brown.  Add curry powder, bring it to a sizzle and remove from heat.  Pour the butter mixture into a small bowl.
4. Using the same saucepot, add in the remainder 1/4 head of chopped cauliflower and the milk, and bring to a simmer, 15 minutes till the cauliflower is soft.  Using a handheld blender, puree the mixture.
5. When the cauliflower is roasted, toss with the spiced butter and the chopped parsley.
6. In a ramekin, rub on some of the spiced butter.  Layer in puree, roasted cauliflower, puree and top with roasted cauliflower.  Pop back into the oven to brown the top, about 5 minutes.
6. Serve with a hearty, robust bread.

Serves: 2

My grandmother used to make and sell nyonya “kuih”.  I wish she was still around so that I can pick up the right skills from her!

Chef’s tip: The green is natural from the pandan leaves.  Besides adding fragrance to the cake, it gives it this beautiful green color.  Blending the leaves with a little water and then extracting the liquid is how you get pandan juice.

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups sweet glutinous rice
1 cup coconut milk
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 pieces pandan

8 pandan leaves
½ cup water

3 eggs
¾ cup coconut milk
¾ cup sugar
6 Tablespoons pandan juice (see step 5)

1 Tablespoon corn starch
1 ½ Tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 Tablespoon rice flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt

Banana leaves

Preparing the rice.
1.    Wash the rice. Add water till it covers the rice by 1 inch. Let rice soak at least 6 hours to overnight.
Cooking the rice
2.    Drain rice.  Place the rice in a cake pan lined with banana leaves.   Place in a steamer rack.
3.    Combine sugar and salt with the coconut milk.  Add to the rice.  Bury a knot of pandan leaves in the rice.  Steam for about 20 minutes.
4.    When rice is done, remove the pandan leaves.  Using a piece of banana leaves or aluminum foil, flatten the rice down to form an even compact layer.  Steam for another 10 minutes.
Preparing the pandan juice
5.    Chiffonade the pandan.  Place the pandan and water in a blender and puree.  Strain out solids.  Reserve juice.
Preparing the custard
6.    In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, coconut milk, sugar and pandan juice.  Set aside.
7.    Place the 3 different flours and salt in a bowl and whisk to mix.  Slowly add the liquid egg mixture, a little at a time, and incorporate till it is smooth and there are no more lumps.
8.    In a double boiler, heat the custard, stirring constantly till just begins to thicken.  Remove form heat.
Completing the serimuka
9.    Pour the thickened custard over the compressed and steam over low heat for another 20 minutes, or until set.
10.    Allow to cool completely before cutting.

Serves: 8

This quiche is heavanly.  Flaky, buttery crust and creamy custard filling.  I have provided the custard recipe for leeks and chevre here, but you can still use the same custard recipe and switch out the leeks and goat cheese with other classic fillings like broccoli, bacon and cheddar.  The recipe looks really long because it provides detailed instructions on how to handle the pastry to create the most flaky shell possible.  Follow it to a T and you can’t go wrong!

Chef’s tip: Make sure that when you handle the dough, everything is chilled cold — from the bowl to the ingredients.  And remember, the less you work the dough, the flakier it will be.  Refrain from kneading, or overpulsing the dough.  The flakes of butter that you see in the dough melts creating air space between the pastry, hence the flakiness.

Other tips:  To press the dough to the side of a pan, take a piece of remnant dough, wrap it with some clear wrap and use it instead of your fingers.  In addition, to easily grab the parchment at the end, when cutting out the round parchment, leave a little tab so that you can grab it from the side.

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
82 ml cold water
250 grams pastry flour, chilled
165 grams unsalted butter, chilled

10-inch, 2 inch height quiche pan with removable bottom

To make the pastry dough:
1. Dissolve salt in water, and pop it back into the freezer to keep cold.
2. In a food processor, add the chilled flour, cut the butter into large dice and place on top of the flour.
3. Pulse several times until breadcrumbs form.  You should still have some butter pieces the size of peas.
4. Add the salt water mixture, pulse once or twice until the dough JUST begins to come together and forms a ball but not completely smooth.  Again, do not overwork the dough.
5. Line a clean surface with plastic wrap.  Pour the pastry dough onto the plastic wrap.  Gently push together and form a disc about 1 inch thick.  The dough should have a marbled look to it, with streaks of yellow butter.  Place in the refrigerator and chill overnight.
Baking the pastry shell:
6. Remove dough from fridge.  Lightly dust a pastry cloth with flour and a rolling pin cover.  Place the dough on the pastry cloth and roll it out till the dough is about 1/4 inch thick.  Remember to lift and rotate 90 degrees per several rolls to ensure the dough does not stick and the gluten is not overworked in any one directions.  Never stretch the dough.
7. Butter a 10-inch quiche pan with a removable bottom.  Line the bottom with a round piece of parchment.
8. Gently transfer the dough to line the pan, folding the dough over on your rolling pin, and transferring the dough over the pan.  Gently press dough to meet all the sides of the pan.  Do not stretch the dough under any circumstances.  Using a sharp knife, trim off any overhang.
9. Pop the dough back in the refrigerator for an hour, to rest, as well as to chill the dough.
10. Preheat oven 375F.  Line the dough with some parchment paper, pour in some pie weights and bake 25 minutes.  Remove parchment and weights and bake another 5 minutes or until golden brown.  Let cool before filling.

2 leeks, sliced thinly
2 Tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1 Tablespoon flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
3 oz goat cheese, crumbled into large pieces
3/4 cup gruyere, grated

To make the leeks:
1. Saute leeks with butter and salt until soft and the moisture has dried off.  Coll.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and cream.
3. In a large bowls, whisk flour with salt, pepper and nutmeg.  Add a little bit of egg mixture and whisk to combine.  Slowly add remaining mixture.  Add in chopped thyme.
To assemble the quiche:
4. In a cool, baked shell, scatter the leeks and goat cheese.  Pour in the custard till it comes to about 1/2 inch from the rim.  Reserve remaining custard.
5. Top with gruyere, reserving a tablespoon.
6. Transfer to a 360F oven.  Make a small hole in the middle, pour in the remaining custard till it comes to the top of the rim.  Cover with reserved gruyere.  Bake 40 minutes or until the quiche is no longer jelly in the middle when you shake it.
7. Remove from oven and let it set in the pan for 10 minutes.
8. Place the quiche pan on an inverted bowl, and gently remove the ring.  Using the bottom as support, transfer to a flat plate.  Look for the tab on the parchment and slide a flat edge offset spatula between the parchment and base of the quiche, then pull out the pan bottom with parchment.

Serves: 8 (10 inch pie)

Autumn’s take on the lasagna.  Layers of butternut squash and ricotta.

Chef’s tip:  If you’d like, make a crunchy gratin by mixing some crushed amaretti with the Monterey Jack cheese.

1 medium butternut squash

4 Tablespoons butter
1 shallot, diced fine
4 Tablespoons AP flour
2 cups milk, warmed
10 pieces sage, chiffonade
1 cup vegetable stock
3 Tablespoons sherry
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, ground

2 cups ricotta
2 cups Monterey Jack, reserve 1/2 cup
1/2 packet/ 8 oz egg spring roll skins

1/2 cup Parmesan

Preparing the butternut squash mash:
1.  Preheat oven 375F.  Cut squash into 2 lengthwise, remove seeds.  Oil a baking sheet, place squash with cut side down.  Bake until tender about 25 minutes.
2. Remove from oven, let cool, and scrape out flesh.  Mash with a fork if needed.
Preparing the sauce:
3.  Melt butter and saute the diced shallots till soft, about 2 minutes.  Add flour and stir vigorously for 3 minutes.  Slowly add in the warm milk, while whisking and incorporate till a thick sauce forms.  Add sage, stock and sherry and continue cooking for another 2 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper.
Assembling the lasagna:
4. Butter a 8X8 lasagna dish.  Ladle on some sauce, line with a spring roll skin, followed by the squash mash.  Cover with another layer of springroll skin, followed by more sauce, a layer of ricotta and a sprinkle of Monterey Jack.  Repeat till the ingredients are all used.  Finish with a thick layer of reserved Montery Jack and Parmesan on top.
5. Bake in oven 375F for about 40 minutes, until top is golden.

Serves: 6

This is a Chinese Malaysian version of the Rojak, a popular Malaysian street food.  It has a sweet, sour and savory sauce with some crunch from both the juicy fruits and the added “croutons”.  Some folks use a shrimp cracker “kerupuk”, I like the crucnh and chewiness of a Chinese doughnut aka “Yow Char Kwai”.  If you can’t find either, add a handful of cornflakes.  Rojak essentially means a mixed of vegetables and fruits, although the word has evolved to mean a random mix of stuff.

Chef’s tip: To peel a whole pineapple, chop off the crown, about an inch from the base of the crown, and also an inch off the base.  Now you have a cylindrycal part of the fruit.  Letting it stand on its base, with a sharp knife, cut off the skin with top to bottom motions.  Next, lay it on its side, and made diagonal slits around both sides of a diagonal row of eyes.  Remove the eyes.  Continue till you have removed all the eyes.  Cut the fruit into two lenghtwise, then cut each half into 6 pieces lengthwise.  If you wish, nip off the center core.

Dressing:
3 Tablespoons prawn paste (hei ko)
1 Tablespoon roasted belachan
6 Tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 1/2 Tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 1/2 Tablespoons Sri Racha sauce, to taste
9 Tablespoons sugar
3 Tablespoons tamarind concentrate

Vegetables:
1 small jicama
1 English cucumber
2 Granny Smith apple
1 green mango
1 star fruit / carambola (optional)
1/2 pineapple
1 cup mung bean sprouts
2 Chinese donut (deep fried dough) or 1/2 cup cornflakes

½ cup sesame seeds, roasted
1 ½ cup unsalted roasted peanuts, crushed, reserve 2 Tablespoons

To prepare the vegetables:
1.    Roll cut jicama, cucumber, apple, mango and star fruit into irregular shapes – slice diagonally, then rotate the fruit before slicing again for an uneven shape.  Place all cut fruits and vegetables in a large salad bowl.
2.    Slice the pineapples into wedges.  Add to the salad bowl.
3.    Slice the Chinese doughnut into ½ inch slices.  Add to the salad bowl.
4.    Mung beans sprouts are left raw.  Remove roots if applicable. .  Add to the salad bowl.
To make the dressing:
5.    In a small bowl, whisk together all dressing ingredients, reserving 2 Tablespoons peanuts.
Assembling the salad:
6.    Pour the dressing into the salad bowl, toss to mix.   If using cornflakes, add now.  Sprinkle with reserve peanuts.

Serves: 8

There are two must-try dishes when you are in Singapore.  One is the Chili Crab, the other is the Black Pepper Prawns, which is sometimes cooked with crabs, too.  You read the recipe right, yes, it does require half a cup of black pepper.

Chef’s tip:  You will need to cook the prawns in its shell to get the full flavor for this dish.  To devein the prawn, use a sharp knife and split through the back of the prawn to remove the black vein.

Ingredients

½ cup whole black peppercorns, ground till a sandy finish, but not fine

2 Tablespoons canola oil
2 lbs jumbo shrimps, skin-on, tails-on, heads-on preferably, too

1 stick butter
20 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
3 inch ginger, peeled, sliced thin
4 Tablespoons oyster sauce
1 Tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 Tablespoon light soy sauce
¾ cup water
Coriander leaves to garnish

Prep
1.    In a small skillet, toast the black pepper for a minute till fragrant.  Remove.  Set aside.
Preparing the dish
2.    In a large wok, heat 2 Tablespoons canola oil.  When hot, add prawns and fry till prawns turn bright red.   They need not be cooked through. Turn down heat and remove prawns from the wok.
3.    Reheat a wok on medium high.  Add butter.   When butter begins to bubble, add the minced garlic and sliced ginger.  Fry till fragrant, about 3 minutes.
4.    Add in the oyster sauce, soy sauces and water.  Bring to a boil.
5.    When it comes to a boil, add in the black pepper, stir to mix.  Add in the prawns and toss to mix.  Cover and steam 2 minutes.

Serves: 8

Last night in class, we made Hainanese Chicken Rice.  The dish, often being claimed as the national dish of Singapore, always surprises folks unfamiliar to it on how tasty and flavorful it can be for a poached chicken and rice dish.  You need to use a whole chicken – chicken parts just won’t do.  Preferably a yellow-feathered, free range, organic chicken, or what they say back home, a “kampung” chicken.  The sauces are a must.

Chef’s tip: Poaching the chicken as described in great detail in the recipe – hot dip, long bath, and cold plunge  – may sound like a spa treatment, but it makes for really tender and moist chicken.  There you go -  proof that spas are good for you.

Rice:
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
2 inches ginger, peeled
2 tablespoons sesame oil
3 cups jasmine rice
4 ½ cups chicken broth
1 teaspoon salt
4 Pandan (screwpine) leaves

Chicken:
1 small chicken, about 3 lbs
2 tablespoon ginger, grated
1 teaspoon five spice powder

Soup:
2 inches ginger, peeled, smashed
3 stalks green onions, cut into 4 inch pieces
2 tablespoons Chinese wine
3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 small head of napa cabbage, tear into large pieces

Dressing Sauce:
3 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
¼ cup canola oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon brown sugar

Garnish:
½ English cucumber, sliced thinly
1 cup green onions, julienned
1 cup cilantro

Preparing the Rice:
1.    Smash garlic with skin on lightly, lightly smashed with the back of the knife, garlic should still be somewhat whole.  Peel ginger.  Smash into large pieces.  Set aside.
2.    In a 6 quart pot, fry garlic and ginger in sesame oil till fragrant. Add dry rice and coat the rice with the oil.  Saute for 1 minute until rice is translucent.
3.    Add chicken broth and salt.  Tie the pandan leaves into a knot and embed into the rice.
4.    Bring to a boil.  Wrap the pot cover with a tea towel and cover the pot and simmer under low heat for 20 minutes.  Do not open the cover at all.
5.    Remove from heat, and let sit 10 minutes.
6.    Remove garlic, ginger and pandan prior to serving.  Fluff the rice.
Preparing the chicken:
7.    Mix grated ginger with the five spice powder. Rub the chicken inside with it.
8.    Fill a large stockpot of water enough to cover the chicken.  Add ginger, green onions, Chinese wine and salt and bring to boil. When water boils, dunk in the chicken and bring to a boil again.  When it comes to a boil, cover, turn heat down and simmer 5 mins. Turn off heat & leave chicken for 40 mins in the covered pot.  Remove scum that forms on top with a slotted spoon.
9.    Remove chicken, and plunge chicken into a ice water bath for 5 mins.
10.    In the meantime, bring the chicken soup back to a boil.   Turn off heat. Plunge chicken back into hot soup for 2 mins to reheat. Remove chicken, and drain. Cut up chicken to 8 pieces.
11.    Add napa cabbage to the soup, salt to taste, and boil another 10 minutes till soft.
Preparing the dressing sauce & garnish:
12.    Mince garlic.  Brown garlic in oil till light golden brown.  Remove from heat.  Let cool.
13.    Whisk into the garlic oil the sesame oil, soy sauce and brown sugar.
14.    Slice cucumber.  Finely shred green onions (length wise) and cilantro
Assembling
15.    Mount a bowl of rice, top with chicken pieces.  Drizzle dressing on chicken. Garnish with cucumber, green onions and cilantro.  Serve with Ginger-Green Onion Sauce and Chili Garlic Sauce and a bowl of the soup.

Serves: 8

Chili Garlic Sauce

4 cloves garlic
10 fresh red chilies, deseeded
5 small sweet red peppers, deseeded
1 ½ inch ginger, peeled, chopped
2 small shallot, peeled, chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
Juice from 2 limes, to make ½ cup
2 tablespoons tomato ketchup
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
½ teaspoon kosher salt

1.    Process to a fine paste all ingredients together in a food processor
2.    Season with sugar and salt to taste.
3.    Add more lime juice if needed.

Sauce will last for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Ginger-Green Onion Sauce

3 inches length young ginger, peeled and grated to make to make 4 Tablespoons
1 stalk green onions, green parts only, finely minced
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 – 2 teaspoons kosher salt

1.    Grate ginger with a microplace and mince green onions
2.    In a small pot, mix all ingredients together and heat mixture.  Bring to boil for ½ minute until the mixture fully sizzles.

If you like beets, this is a flavor explosion way of preparing your beets.  It’s really my mother-in-law, Pia’s, recipe, and I have added the measurements to her list of ingredients.  Pia loves her spices.

Chef’s tip: Save the beets tops.  Saute with some garlic and oilve oil and it makes a wonderfully nutritious dark green dish.

1 bunch beets, about 4 pieces, tops removed

1 clove garlic, minced fine
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 Tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
2 Tablespoons flax oil
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon lemon pepper
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Roast beets, wrapped in foil, in 375F oven for 30 minutes, until tender.  Cool, peel and slice into quarters or one-sixths.  Alternatively, you can steam it.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining ingredients.
3. Toss together and let beets marinade for at least half a day.

Serves: 4 as a side

The perfume of the typical Thai aromatics of galangal, lemongrass, coriander and kaffir lime leaves is infused in the tender flaky fish.  The lime-nuoc nam dressing is well suited for oily white fish,

Chef’s tip: Baking en papilotte is a simple solution to steaming fish, especially if you have a big piece of fish and limited pot sizes.  There are many ways to crimp the parchment paper, some requires no staples.  I just use the staple approach to create a fool-proof leak-proof envelope.

Ingredients

Garlic Oil:
3 cloves garlic
1/3 cup of oil

Sauce:
4 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine
1 ½ tablespoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
1-2 lime – make about 1/3 cup juice
3 tablespoons water

Aromatics:
2 red jalapeno, seeded, minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 coriander/cilantro roots, or 4 tablespoons cilantro stems, minced finely
1 stalk scallions, white part minced, green part julienned about 1 inch long for garnish
1 inch ginger, peeled, julienned finely
1 inch galangal, peeled, grated
3 kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade finely
3 stalks lemon grass – white part only, cut into 2 lengthwise, smashed

Fish:
4 pieces of parchment paper – 12 X 20 inch
2 lbs escolar / butter fish fillet/ sustainably-farmed chilean sea bass (or any fatty white fish, too)
A handful of cherry tomatoes

Garnish:
1 cup cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
1 cup of basil, preferably Thai

Preparing the infused oils and sauce
1.    Coarsely chop garlic. Heat oil.  Fry garlic till golden.  Drain and set aside.
2.    Mix sauce ingredients with 4 tablespoons garlic oil.  Set aside.
Preparing the, aromatics and garnish
3.    Mince jalapeno, garlic, cilantro stems, and scallion white part.
4.    Grate galangal, and using a mortar and pestle, grind cilantro roots into a paste, if using.
5.    Julienne ginger and chiffonade kaffir
6.    Julienne scallions green parts, coarsely chop cilantro leaves and chiffonade basil.  Reserve for garnish.
Preparing the fish en papillote
7.    Preheat oven 425F*
8.    Remove fish bones and pins.
9.    Take a large piece of parchment paper 30 x 22 inch, fold into half, and lay it flat on a baking sheet.  Unfold the parchment and lay pieces of smashed lemon grass at the base followed by half of the aromatic mixture.
10.    Place a fish on top.  Top with remaining aromatic mixture.
11.    Drizzle the sauce on top.
12.    Next sprinkle on julienned ginger and kaffir leaves.  Toss in the tomatoes.
13.    Cover the fish with the other half of the parchment paper and fold over edges, stapling if necessary to create an airtight seal.
14.    Bake in oven for about 15 minutes, depending on thickness of fish, rotating once.
15.    Open the package carefully, avoiding the steam.  Sprinkle with basil, cilantro, and green scallions. Drizzle with a teaspoon garlic oil.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 6

Singapore and Malaysia’s favorite kopi tiam breakfast – kaya on toast (with slabs of butter, and preferably on white, fluffy bread), a cup of coffee with condensed milk and two half-boiled eggs with a dash of dark soy sauce and lots of white pepper.  We’ll settle for just kaya on wholewheat toast and a Starbucks latte here.

There are 2 schools of thoughts in kaya – the smooth, dark brown jam and the greenish curd ones. Some say the former is for toast only, and the latter is to serve with glutinous rice such as pulut tai-tai or pulut tekan. The brown kaya has more of a caramel flavor to it. I have always liked the fragrance of the greenish one – somehow pandan and coconut just go so well together.  A union made in food heaven  This recipe is for the greenish version.

Chef’s tip: Tempering eggs is the process of blending uncooked eggs into a hot or warm liquid without having the eggs scramble or curdle.  To do this, you gently add a little hot liquid at a time, streaming it into the beaten eggs while whisking continuously.  You continue to do this until the temperature of the bowl holding the eggs is close to the temperature of the hot liquid.  Another tip is using a double boiler while making a custard.  It will prevent the custard from scorching.

Ingredients:

1 250-ml can coconut milk
1¼ cups sugar
5 large eggs, or 6 small ones
6 pieces pandan leaves, tied into 2 knots

1.    In a double boiler, heat the coconut milk with the sugar until the sugar dissolves.  Remove from heat.
2.    In a large bowl, whisk the eggs.  Using a ladle, stream in the hot coconut milk into the egg mixture, while whisking continuously.  Add one ladle at a time.  It is very important to whisk continuously and pour the hot liquid in a stream while tempering eggs so that the eggs won’t cook and curdle.
3.    When done tempering the eggs, return mixture into the double boiler, add pandan leaves (tie into a knot) and cook under a simmering boil.  Continuously stir the first 20 minutes until the liquid has thickened, do not let the eggs curdle.
4.    Once thickened, you need to stir it every 5 minutes, until it reaches the desired consistency, about 20 minutes more.
5.    Remove pandan leaves.

Makes: 2 cups

Deconstructed or perhaps re-constructed.  Merging the guac and salsa together in one tall timbale but isolating the flavors of the cilantro so that it stands out on its own.

Chef’s tip: Zesting is done best with microplane. To make your own lime-infused olive oil, warm the olive oil to about 175F. Add in the lime zest, cool and let it sit for an hour. Strain.  To seed the tomatoes, cut a tomato into half and just gently squeeze out the seeds.

1 Tablespoon lime zest
1/3 cup lime-infused olive oil (or EVOO)
1 cup cilantro, leaves and stems, packed
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 avocado, pitted, diced
1 Tablespoon lime juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

3 ripe tomatoes, seeded
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon cumin, ground
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon lime juice
1 Tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted, crushed coarsely
A few turns of sea salt

Directions
1. To make the cilantro vinaigrette: Zest the lime with a microplane zester. Combine zest with the cilantro and lime-infused olive oil. Blend together till smooth.  Add salt.
2. To make the avocado mash: Dice and gently mash avocado with the lime juice and salt with a fork, leaving some chunkiness texture in it.
3. Seed the tomatoes, chop into fine dice.  Toss tomatoes with garlic, cumin, salt, lime juice and olive oil.
4. Assemble: Using a tall cake ring, fill the lower part of the ring with the avocado. Top with the tomato mix. Drizzle around the sides with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle with crushed coriander seeds and a few turns of the sea salt. Serve with tortilla chips.

Serves: 4

As October comes to a close, I try to preserve the summer’s bounty by making some raspberry jam that will last me the next 9 months.

Chef’s tip: You really don’t need to have the fancy canning implements to make jam. A set of tongs, and something to grip the hot bottles (I use a Chinese steam plate holder that I get from Chinatown for like a dollar). Just make sure you buy the Kerr or Ball mason jars and lids that are perfect for boiling.  I like the short ones so that they fit in a pot easily!

8 6-oz flats raspberry, rinse and left to drain and dry thoroughly
1 1.75oz packet Sure-Jell No Sugar Needed pectin
4 cups sugar

8 1-cup mason jars with canning lids and bands

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil, and start to sterilize the jars and lids. Make sure they boil at least 5 minutes. Keep jars in simmering water until ready to use.
2. In another large heavy-bottom pot, mash the berries,
3. Mix the pectin with 1 cup of the sugar. Add to the mashed berries.
4. Bring the berries to boil at high heat, stirring constantly. When it comes to a rolling boil, add the remaining sugar. Bring it back to a boil and boil for exactly 1 minute.
5. Remove the sterilized jars from the canning pot, drain it. Let it dry slightly. Ladle the hot jam into the jar. Cap it and screw on the band tightly. Return the closed jar into the boiling hot water, making sure the water covers the jar by 1 inch. Boil for 10 minutes. Remove and let cool.
6. You should hear a popping sound of the lid being sucked in by the vacuum, after which, the lid is flat and somewhat sunken. If it’s not, then the vacuum did not work, and you will need to store the jam in the refrigerator. Otherwise, the canned jam can be stored at room temperature in a cool place for up to a year.

This crudo is truly simple to assemble and just delish!

Chef’s tip: Frankly, there’s little skill needed to put this dish together.  Just get the best hamachi you can buy.  In SF Japantown, at the Nijiya market, they fly in fish from the Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market several times a week. I know, it’s not locally-correct, but you’ve gotta sink your teeth into the fish to feel the springy, crunchy texture to feel the fresh difference.

Ingredients

6 oz of sashimi-grade yellow-tail hamachi

Zest of 1 Meyer lemon
Juice of half a Meyer lemon
1/3 cup of Meyer lemon olive oil (O Brand)
A pinch of sugar
A pinch of salt

¼ of English cucumber

1 Tablespoon dried hijiki, soaked in hot water, 10 minutes
Thinly sliced Meyer lemon
Some fleur du sel

To make the Vinaigrette:
1.    Zest the Meyer lemon with a microplane zester
2.    Combine ½ the zest with olive oil, lemon juice, sugar and salt and mix well.
To Assemble:
3.    Slice the yellowtail thinly and arrange on serving plate
4.    Slice cucumber into half moon slices and arrange around the fish
5.    Drizzle with the vinaigrette
6.    Garnish with sliced lemons and drained hijiki.
7.    Finish with a sprinkle of fleur du sel.

Serves: 4

If you are in a bind trying to serve a main course that is both vegan and yet dramatic looking, look no further!  A tower of tofu and tomatoes!

Chef’s tip: To peel tomatoes, make a shallow “X” on the bottom of the tomatoes.  You want to just run the knife on the tomatoes, not make deep cuts.  Bring a pot of water to boil.  Blanch the tomatoes in the boiling water, for about 30 seconds, then immediately plunge them into a bowl of cold water. Using your fingers, gently slip off the skin starting from the X.

Ingredients:

1 box 12-oz extra firm tofu, drained
1 large yellow onion, sliced
3 small tomatoes, peeled
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Drain tofu and place on a flat plate.  Place another plate on op of the tofu, put a heavy can of beans on top of the plate to weigh down the plate and drain the tofu for 10 minutes.  Pour off any liquids.
2. Slice onions thinly and soak them in a big bowl of cold water for 10 minutes, drain.
3. Peel the tomatoes and discard skin.  Chop tomatoes coarsely.
4.  In a small saute pan, heat the olive oil.  When it’s warm, add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds and saute till they pop.  Add the drained onions, and saute for 2 minutes till it’s wilted but still light in color.  Add the chopped tomatoes and salt and cook for another 5 minutes until the tomatoes has reduced and coat the onion.  Adjust seasoning if necessary.
5. Cut the tofu block into half.  Slice each half into four pieces.
6. Build the napoleon by sandwiching the tomato-onion mixture between the tofu slices.
7. Drizzle the completed tofu napoleon with some olive oil and serve immediately.

Serves 2.

The chili padi or Thai Chili is a tiny pepper, but full of scovilles.  It adds an explosive punch to your food.  As such, pickling the peppers reduces the effect of the capsaicin, and you can enjoy the peppers all year round, too.  I love to slice up a couple of the peppers and mix it with soy sauce for a deliciously simple dipping sauce.

Chef’s tip: The capsaicin, the agent that provides the pungency, in a pepper, resides in the membranes of the placenta/core of the pepper.  When cutting a pepper, try not to touch the core.

Ingredients:

1 cup Chili Padi/ Thai Chilis
1 cup white vinegar

1. Remove the stem and sepal off the peppers.  Clean and dry them thoroughly.
2. Transfer the peppers into a clean, sterile jar.
3. Pour in enough white vinegar to cover the peppers.
4. Keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.  The pickled peppers will be ready to eat in 2 weeks and keeps for at least 6 months.

Serving: 1 jar

Using the same vinaigrette as the one for Lamb Tataki, the flavorful rosemary vinaigrette works just as well with these seared mushrooms.

Chef’s tip:  Select large king trumpets, save the top for other uses such as a mushroom ragout.  Use a high heat oil like grapeseed oil searing the mushrooms.  Sear in batches so as not to crowd the mushromms, maintaining a high heat environment, otherwise, the mushrooms will start to sweat.

Vinaigrette:
1/3 cup grapeseed oil or other nuetral flavor oils
1/2 tespoon dijon mustard
2 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 Tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon rosemary, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 oz King Trumpet mushrooms, stems only, sliced into 1/4 inch thick rounds
1/4 cup grapeseed oil
2 cloves garlic, skin on, lightly smashed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper

To make the Vinaigrette:
1.  Combine all ingredients in a glass bowl and whisk to combine well.  Set aside.
To make the mushroom coins:
2.  Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat.   Add the grapeseed oil and garlic and saute for 30 seconds until garlic is fragrat.
3.  Add the mushroom coins and sear the mushrooms until a caramelized crust forms and the mushroom is tender.   Transfer to a plate.
To Assemble:
4.  Drizzle with the vinaigrette, give it a few turns of black pepper from a mill and serve immediately.

Serves: 4

Rosemary just have a great affinity with lamb.   The rosemary is finely chopped, releasing its inner oils into the vinaigrette.    The lamb is cut carpaccio thin, creating as much surface as possible as a vehicle for the tasty vinaigrette.  You really have to love your meat rare to appreciate this dish.   In the King Mushroom Coins in Rosemary Vinaigrette post, you can use the same dressing for your vegetarian friends so that they don’t miss out on this yummy vinaigrette!

Chef’s tip:  Freezing the meat slightly, about 20 minutes, will help you to cut it razor thin.

Vinaigrette:
1/3 cup grapeseed oil or other nuetral flavor oils
1/2 tespoon dijon mustard
2 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 Tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon rosemary, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 oz lamb loin, whole
1 Tablespoon garlic olive, or use extra vurgin olive oil with a lightly smashed garlic
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

To make the Vinaigrette:
1.  Combine all ingredients in a glass bowl and whisk to combine well.  Set aside.
To make the Tataki:  
2.  Marinate the lamb loin in garlic-roasted olive oil, salt and pepper for at least 2 hours.
3.  Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat.   Sear the lamb loin on all sides.
4.  Transfer the lamb loin on a plate.  Refrigerate at least one hour.  20 minutes before serving, pop the lamb into the freezer. 
To Assemble:
5.   Slice the lamb loins against the grain as thin as possible.   Arrange on serving plate, overlapping the slices. 
6.   Drizzle with the vinaigrette, give it a few turns of black pepper from a mill and serve immediately.

Serves: 4

Cantonese folks believe that the best way to savor the sweetness of fresh fish is to do the least to it.  A classic case of less is more.  “7 minutes” is the magic number to cook the fish.  Regardless of amount.  You want it just flaking, and not tough.  You can control how much oil you want to add.  This recipe makes a small jar of shallot oil that you can use many times over.

Chef’s tip: Invest in a steamer rack, like the picture below….for a grand price of $0.69.  You can find the racks in many of those houseware stores in Chinatown, typically hung outside the shop….as if in marketing terms, an impromptu purchase item.  Go figure.    Just place it on a big pot, wok or saute pan with a cover, add some water till it comes up to the height of the steamer, use a heatproof dish and you would have outfitted your kitchen with a steamer capability.

Ingredients:

2 shallots, sliced thinly
1/2 cup canola oil

8 oz soft, white fish (rock fillet, red snapper, sea bass)
1/2 inch ginger, peeled, julienned fine
1 Tablespoon light soy sauce
1 sprig green onions, green part only, julienned
1 sprig cilantro

To make the shallot oil:
1. In a small sauce pot, heat canola oil.  Add sliced shallots and fry till light golden brown.  Remove from heat and the shallots will continue browning to a deep brown.
2.  When cool, transfer oil and shallot crisps to a glass jar.  Shallot oil can be kept for a couple of months in a jar.
Preparing the fish:
3. Bring a wok of water with a steamer rack to boil.
4. Smear a heat-proof deep plate with a little of the shallot oil.  Place fish on the plate.  Top with ginger strips.
5. Place in steamer and steam under boiling water for 7 minutes.
6. Remove plate from the steamer, drizzle with 1-2 Tablespoons of shallot oil and crisps, soy sauce and top with green onions and cilantro. Serve immediately.

Serves: 2

There are 2 popular ways to eat pickled ginger.  In Chinese tradition, at the first full moon celebration of the birth of a baby, or in Japanese, gari is eaten with sushi.  I just love it as an everyday condiment!  Do note that the pink in the pickled ginger is a natural color.

Chef’s tip: Buy the young ginger, which has very thin skin, succulent flesh with little fibers.  Peel the ginger by scraping it with a spoon.

1  1/4 lb young ginger, peeled and sliced thinly
2 Tablespoons kosher salt

1 1/2 cup white vinegar
6 Tablespoons sugar

1. Peel ginger and slice with a mandoline as thin as you can, preferably less than 1 mm thick
2. Spread sliced ginger on a baking sheet.  Sprinkle with salt and let sit for 7 minutes.  Rinse and spin dry.  Pat dry with paper towels.
3. In a non reactive bowl, dissolve sugar with the vinegar.
4. Pack the ginger into a glass container, then pour in the vinegared syrup.  Refrigerate for at least two weeks before consuming.  The ginger will develop a rose pink hue over time.

Serves: Makes 6 cups

I love kalbi but find it a bit of a work to work around the sinewy parts of the short ribs.  Using a juicy piece of tenderloin solves that problem while still allowing me to enjoy the sweet grilled beef.

Chef’s tip: While testing for beef doneness is most accurately achieved with a meat thermometer, a quicker way of testing will be to feel the meat with your finger tips and then comparing it with the softness of the area of your palm between your thumb and the base of your hand.  With one palm opened, take your index finger of the other palm and press on this area.  That’s how raw meat feels like.  Next, with that opened palm, bring the index finger to gently meet the thumb like you are doing an “ok”; that’s how “rare” would feel like.  When you switch the index finger to the middle finger, you will begin to encounter some resistance, but it’s still soft; that would be “medium rare.”  For “medium”, bring your ring finger to the thumb, it will feel springy.  And lastly, for “well-done”, bring your pinkie finger to meet your thumb and your palm will feel pretty firm.  You never want to cook your tenderloins well done.

Marinade:
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 Tablespoons vermouth or sake
1 Tablespoon brown sugar
2 Tablespoons frozen pineapple concentrate
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1/2 teaspoon ginger, grated
3 Tablespoons green onions, white parts only, finely sliced

4 6-oz tenderloin
1 cup kim chee

1. Whisk all the marinade ingredients together.
2. Immerse the tenderloins in the marinade, cover tightly and leave to marinade overnight.
3. Slightly oil a grill, and heat it.  When hot, sear the meat, both sides.  Cook till desired doneness.  Let steak sit for a few minutes before serving.
4. Bring remaining marinade to boil.
5. Serve steak with drizzled with cooked marinade with white steamed rice and some kim chee on the side.

Serves: 4

“Sesame Ball” is probably the most popular choice on the dim sum dessert tray.  Who can resists eating these crunchy on the outside, glutinous rice balls  that is filled with adzuki red bean paste.  On first bite, the ball collapses into a chewy, tasty mass full of sweet “dou sha” and nutty sesame.

You can use the same dough and cooking method and fill the pastry with other sweet bean paste such as lotus seeds paste or a peanut-sugar mix.  Or for a savory version, aka “jin dui”, you can add a mixture spiced mince pork with cilantro and water chestnut.

Chef’s tip: When making the dough, it is critical that the water is boiling hot in order to cook the starch that binds the rice flour together.  Also see Step 11 instructions on how to carefully deep fry the balls to get that perfect spherical shape.

Red bean paste:
1 cup of Adzuki red beans, soaked, drained
3/4 cup sugar or more to taste
3 pandan leaves (optional), each tied into a knot
¼ cup of canola oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Dough:
3 ½ cups glutinous rice flour
½ cup wheatstarch
2 Tablespoon sugar
1 ½ cup boiling water, and more depending on dough
3 tablespoon shortening

1 cup water
1 cup sesame seeds
6 cups canola oil

Preparing the red bean paste filling:
1.    Place the red beans in a pot with 2 pieces of the pandan.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the beans and simmer 1-1 ½ hours till beans have softened.  Add more water if needed.  Drain.
2.    Pass the beans through a food mill or place into a food processor.
3.    In a non stick pan, heat oil, add sugar and the pureed beans and 1 pandan leave tied into a knot.
4.    Constantly stir the paste. Cook for 10 minutes until the bean paste is dry.  Cool.
Preparing the dough:
5.    Combine the glutinous rice flour, wheat starch and sugar.   Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring until a ball forms.  Add more hot water if needed,
6.    Cool a little, while still warm, knead in the shortening, a little at a time.  Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until soft and smooth.
7.    Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a 1 ½ inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into 12 pieces, and roll into a ball — making a total of 24 balls.  Cover as you work.
Assembly:
8.    Take a piece of dough, flatten it.  Add 1 teaspoon of the red bean paste mixture. Gently pack the filling down. Gather the edges of the dough over the filling and squeeze together the edges of the dough pressing to seal securely. Roll between palms to form a ball.
9.    Place water and sesame seeds in separate breading pans.
10.    Dip a ball into the water (this will help the sesame seeds stick to the ball) to moisten the ball.  Then roll the ball over the sesame seeds.  Place on a baking sheet.  Repeat the process with the remainder of the balls.
Frying  the balls:
11.    Heat  canola oil over medium-high heat until 330F.  Drop several sesame balls into the oil and fry till golden brown, about 7 minutes each.  As the balls float to the surface (2 minutes), begin to press them gently with the back of a metal spatula against the sides of the pot. The balls will expand as they are gently rotated and pressed. Fry until golden brown, or when they have expanded 3x their size.  Immediately drain on a wire rack over a baking sheet.
12.    Serve immediately.

Serves: 24 portions

Even though we are in October and technically in the fall, we still find lots of summer squashes in the market.  I like using a combination of the yellow crooked squash with zucchini in this deliciously light pasta.  You can whip up this meal in the same time in takes to boil the pasta.

Chef’s tip: To chiffonade basil, stack the leaves.  Roll tightly into a compact cylinder.  Using a sharp knife, slice thinly horizontally across the roll.  Fluff up the basil.

Ingredients:
8 oz dried spaghetti
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 yellow squash, grated coarse
1 medium zucchini, grated coarse
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup feta, crumbled
1/2 cup basil, chiffonade
1/2 teaspoon long pepper, freshly ground

1. Bring a pot of salted water to boil.  Add pasta and cook till el dente, about 12 minutes or according to package instructions.  Drain pasta, reserving about a cup of the cooking liquid.
2.  While pasta is boiling, grate squashes.  Chiffonade basil.
3.  Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat, when the oil begins to ripple, add garlic, saute until light golden, about 1 minute.
4. Add the grated squash and zucchini and suate until limp, about 2 minutes.  Layer on salt as you cook.
5. Add back the pasta.  Remove from heat.  Toss to mix.  Add in some of the reserved pasta water if needed to make the pasta strands easier to mix.
6.  Toss in feta, half the basil and the long pepper.  Toss lightly and serve.  Garnish with remaining basil.

Serves: 4

This week, I got a big box of spices from my friend, Karina, from Singapore.  She sent me a kilogram of dried “bunga telang” – blue pea flower, a type of tropical morning glory. It’s an edible flower and we use its brilliant indigo blue pigment as a natural food dye.  See the pictures below for a view of the brilliant blue color!   You can’t imagine how excited I was.  Even when I lived in Malaysia, bunga telang is hard to come by.  If we see it on vines by the roadside, we would stop the car to pick some.

So what do you do with these blue flowers?  Nasi Ulam or in the East Coast of Malaysia, sometimes refered to as Nasi Kerabu.  “Ulam” means a medley of herbs.  The rice salad is tossed with, yes, a medley of Asian herbs, dried coconut and dried fish flakes.  If you want to keep it vegetarian or serving the rice to less adventurous palates, just skip the dried seafood part.  It tastes just as yummy.

Chef’s tip: Toasting coconut is just as easy on the stove top as in the oven.  Coconut burns really fast, so remove it from the heat source a tinge below your desired color, and it will continue cooking on its own.

3 Tablespoons dried bunga telang, soaked in 1½ cup water
1 cup Jasmine rice
1 cup Jasmine rice + 1½ cup water

2 oz salt cod, soaked 10 minutes, drained, optional
¼ cup dried shrimp, soaked, drained, optional

1 cup shredded, unsweetened desiccated coconut

Herb mix
½ cup mint leaves, chiffonade
½ cup Thai basil leaves, chiffonade
½ cup Rau Ram leaves, chiffonade
½ cup cilantro leaves, chiffonade
¼ cup perilla/shiso leaves. chiffonade
½ cup Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped
¼ cup sorrel leaves, finely chiffonade
2 tablespoon kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade
½ cup shallots from 2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 inch fresh tumeric, thin juliennes
1 inch galangal, thin juliennes
1 lemon grass, white only, finely sliced
1 ginger flower, finely sliced
Note: You can use any fragrant herb, if you cannot find all the herbs listed, or try new ones

½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped
1 Tablespoon roasted belachan, optional

Preparing the 2 types of rice:
1. Rinse 1 cup of  rice until the water runs clear.  Then soak rice in 1½ cup water with the blue flowers (in a tea ball or wrapped with cheesecloth) for at least 1 hour.  Remove flowers just before cooking.
2. In a small pot, bring the soaked rice and blue soaking liquid to boil. When it comes to a boil, cover the pot, turn to low simmer, and simmer for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let it sit, still covered for 10 minutes.
3. Rinse the other 1 cup of rice till the water runs clear.  In another small pot, bring the white rice and 1½ cups of water to boil. When it comes to a boil, cover the pot, turn to low simmer, and simmer for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let it sit, still covered for 10 minutes.
4. Fluff the rice and toss together into a large bowl to cool.
Preparing the coconut and seafood, if using:
5. Toast the coconut till golden brown. Add to the big bowl of rice.
6. Soak and drain salt cod and dried shrimp.  Place salt cod in food processor and grind coarsely.  Set aside.  Repeat with dried shrimp.
7. Heat a sauté pan with 1 tablespoon of canola oil and fry the salt cod till fragrant.  Add to the rice.
8. Toast the dried shrimp till fragrant.  Add to the rice.
Preparing the herbs
9. Finely chiffonade all herbs.
Assembly:
10. Toss all ingredients – salt cod, dried shrimp, coconut, herbs – together with the cooled rice.
11. Sprinkle with chopped roasted peanuts and roasted belachan.  Serve at room temperature.

Serves: 8

Part relish, part salad, part pickle.  This side dish is tasty and colorful, and adds a lot of zing to your meal.   It uses the typical Indian spice pairing of fennel and nigella seeds.

Chef’s tip: To remove the skin from a ginger, peel with a spoon – it peels off the skin without cutting too deep into the ginger flesh, while being able to go around the knobs of the rhizome more easily than a knife.  Adding ginger earlier in the cooking process subdues its pungency.

1 pint cherry and grape tomatoes, cut into half
1 Serrano chile
1 sprig green onions, white parts only

2 small Italian eggplants, cut into small half inch cubes
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 Tablespoon ginger, finely julienned
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon nigella seeds
1 teaspoon ground tumeric
3 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt

Cilantro leaves

1. Toss together tomatoes, chile, green onions in a large bowl.
2. In a small saute pan under medium heat 2 Tablespoons olive oil.  Saute eggplant cubes till it’s tender.  Remove and add to the tomatoes mix.
3. Add remaining olive oil, ginger, garlic, fennel, nigella seeds and tumeric.  Saute until fragrant, about 3 minutes.
4. Add vinegar, sugar and salt.  Remove from heat.
5. Pour vinaigrette over the tomatoes and toss to mix.
6. Garnish with cilantro leaves.

Serves: 4

This quesadilla oozes robust, meaty wild mushrooms and is balanced by the rustic blue corn tortilla.  Served with a bright red tomato salsa, you can safely say you are eating your colors.

Chef’s tip: To grate cheese, pop the cheese into the freezer for about 10 minutes to firm up the cheese before grating.  A regular box grater works best for grating cheese.  Zesting citrus, however, is best done with a microplane which only lifts out the colored parts of the citrus where the essential oils are, leaving the often, bitter pith behind.

Mushroom:
1 pound mushrooms, such as Shiitake, Chanterelle, Maitake, sliced 1/4 inch thick
4 Tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Filling:
1/4 cup pumpkin seeds
2 Tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped
3 Tablespoons cilantro stems, chopped
2 Tablespoons parsley, chopped
3 oz Cotija cheese, grated
3 oz Oaxaca, grated
2 oz aged, sharp Cheddar
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted and crushed

4 Tablespoons olive oil
8 small blue corn tortilla

Salsa:
3 vine-riped tomatoes or dry farmed Early Girls, diced
1 clove garlic, peeled, sliced
1 sprig green onion, light green and white parts only, chopped
1 Serrano chile, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 cups cilantro, packed, including the stems
Zest of 1 lime
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
A few dashes of hot sauce
1/2 teaspoon cumin, ground
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 tespoon fresh black pepper

2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Roasting the mushroom:
1. Preheat oven 400F.  Toss sliced mushrooms with olive oil, and garlic.  Season with the salt and pepper; roast till soft and mushrooms start to brown, about 12 minutes.  Set aside.
Preparing the filling:
2.  Combine the filling ingredients together in a large bowl.  Toss to mix.
Preparing the quesadillas:
3.  Lay a tortilla on a clean, flat surface.  Spoon in about 3/4 inch thick of filling, leaving a 1/2 inch rim uncovered.  Cover with another tortilla, press gently to compact the filling and place on a baking sheet.  Repeat till you have formed 4 quesadillas.
4.  Heat a flat frying pan with little oil over medium heat.  Using a fish spatula, transfer the prepared quesadilla onto the pan, cook for a few minutes, while gently pressing on the quesadilla.  Gently turn the quesadilla and cook the other side for a a minute or two more.
6. Cut each quesadilla into 6 and serve with a salsa.
Preparing the salsa:
5. Add all tomatoes and garlic into a food processor.  Pulse several times till the tomatoes are cut into small dice.   Add green onion, cilantro and serrano and pulse a few more times.  Remove from food processor and add in zest, lime juice, vinegar, hot sauce, cumin, salt and pepper.  If needed, balance the acid with a touch of sugar.  Finish with extra virgin olive oil.

Serves: 4

This is my nephew, Christian’s, favorite bao!  We simply call it “Dai Bao” (translated “Big Bun”) coz it’s like ye big.  The size of a Big Mac, really. These days, it’s hard to find the Dai Bao. They are becoming almost extinct in this modern world of dainty dim sums. I call it the Dim Sum Evolution Theory! When my mom visits her grandchildren in Hong Kong, she brings a few of these Dai Baos with her from PJ.  The bao is filled with chicken, shiitake mushrooms, lap cheung sausages and my favorite part – half a hard boiled egg.

Chef’s tip: Marinating the chicken with cornstarch gives it a velvety texture. The best way to determine if the chicken is cooked through is by using a thermometer.

Ingredients:

1 portion of Basic Yeast Dough – see below

Marinade:
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 Tablespoons Chinese rice wine
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper, ground
1 Tablespoon cornstarch

1 1/2 lb chicken thighs, skinless, trimmed, vut into 1/2 inch strips
3 Tablespoons cilantro stems
2 pairs Chinese sausage, sliced
8 pieces shiitake, cut into half
4 hard boiled eggs, halved

8 pieces of 4 x 4 wax paper.

Prepare the dough
1. Make 1 recipe of Basic Yeast Dough for Steamed Buns. Make sure you cover the finished dough with a damp tea cloth.
Preparing the filling
2. Mix all the marinade ingredients (oyster sauce, soy, sesame oil, wine, salt, pepper, sugar, cornstarch and water) together in a bowl. Add chicken and marinate 2 hours. Toss in the chopped cilantro stems.
Assembling
3. Take a dough portion, work into a round ball about 2 inch in diameter. Flatten it into a 8-inch round with a rolling pin about ¼ inch thick. Make sure the edges are half as thin as the center.
5. Place 2 heaping Tablespoons of chicken into dough. Add 1/8th of the sausage, mushrooms and the half egg. Pull the sides to meet at the center, making a ruffled fold as you work. Pinch the top together and give it a twist to seal. Pinch off any extra dough at the top. Place onto a piece of waxed paper.
6. Place buns in steamer about 2 inches apart and cover with a damp cloth. Allow buns to rise in a draft-free place for about 20 minutes.
Steaming
7. Place steamer over the simmering water for 25minutes, or until bun is well risen or when a thermometer inserted into the bun reads 165F. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 8 buns

Basic Yeast Dough Recipe

This is a recipe for the dough of the fluffy white skins of the char siu bao and the shanghai cabbage buns. It’s truly versatile — you can use the same dough and fill it with sweetened mashed red beans or lotus seeds for a dessert treat. Or just steam it by itself to turn it into “man tou” essentially steamed white bread that is used to soak up the wonderful sauce of Sichuanese or Hunanese dishes. If you shape the bun into a flat disc, it becomes the base for peking duck.

The dough can be allowed to rise slowly, covered, in the refrigerator for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before using. If you are not using the dough straight away, punch it down and wrap tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.

3 Tablespoons sugar
½ Tablespoons active dry yeast
½ cup + 2 Tablespoons hot water
½ cup + 2 Tablespoons cold water

3 cups unbleached “00” or high protein bread flour plus additional for kneading
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons canola oil

2 teaspoons baking powder, sifted

Part 1: Making and proofing the dough.
1. Proofing the yeast: Dissolve sugar in hot water. Add cold water to make a warm solution (105 – 115°F). Dissolve the yeast in the sugar solution. Stir lightly, and let stand in a warm place until mixture develops a creamy foam, about 7 minutes. (If mixture doesn’t foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)
2. Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the middle, and add yeast mixture and oil and stir to incorporate the flour until dough holds together and just come away from side of bowl. Add a little more water if needed.
3. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead. Lightly flour your hands if necessary. Knead (by using the heels of your hands and your body weight to push away from you, pull it back and fold in the sides of the dough towards the center. Turn the dough right angle every few kneads) until dough is smooth, soft, and elastic, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball.
4. Lightly oil a large bowl, put the dough into the bowl and turn the dough so that all sides are coated. Cover the bowl tightly with a plastic wrap/damp tea cloth and let dough rise in a warm (75-80°F), draft-free place until doubled in bulk, 1-3 hours. The dough is ready when it does not spring back when poked with a finger.

Part 2: Finishing the dough – Using the dough
1. Uncover the dough, punch it down and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.
2. Flatten it and make a well in the center. Sprinkle baking powder in the well, gather up the sides and fold to the center to incorporate the baking powder. Knead lightly for a few minutes till it becomes a ball again.
3. Divide the dough into two cylinders. Cut each into 4. Make 8 2-inch ball portions. Cover dough with a damp tea cloth as you work.
4. Proceed with dumpling recipes

Note: This basic dough can be used for char siu bau steamed pork bun recipes, plain steamed man tou recipes, shanghai cabbage steamed buns, chicken steamed bun recipes.

Shrimp and banana – not your typical pairing.  But in this case, the flavor profiles of the shrimp and banana work really well together!  Although, I have to admit — put anything into a fryer and it will taste yummy!

Chef’s tip:  When deep frying, fry small batches at a time to keep the temperature at a constant high of 375.  The more spring rolls you crowd into the fryer, the quicker the temperature will drop (the law of thermodynamics!), thus, the soggier your spring rolls will be.  And always, always use a fry thermometer.

Filling:
1 lb raw shrimp, shelled and deveined, cut into ½ inch cubes
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 ripe bananas, peeled, halved lengthwise from top to bottom, then cut into a 1/2-inch dice
½ cup canned bamboo shoots, rinsed thoruoghly and minced
½ cup water chestnuts, drained and chopped
½ cup scallions, green and white, chopped finely
½ cup cilantro, chopped finely
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or pale dry sherry
1 teaspoon kosher salt
A pinch of white pepper

24 square spring roll wrappers – 6 x 6 inch
1 large egg beaten with 2 Tablespoons water (egg wash)
6 cups canola oil for frying

Sauce:
½ cup sake
2 Tablespoons mirin
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
2 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 Thai chilies, seeds optional, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 Tablespoon finely chopped cilantro stems

Preparing the filling:
1.    Cut half the shrimp into 1/2 in cubes, and mince the rest. Mix shrimp with sugar, cornstarch and sesame oil.
2.    In a medium bowl, toss together the remaining filling ingredients. Divide into 24 portions.
Assembly:
3.    Cut off 2 inches off the corner of the stack of spring roll wrappers –  the one end pointed towards you.  Cover wrappers with a damp tea towel.
4.    Take one wrapper and place the cut end closest to you.  Brush uncut ends with egg wash. Place 2-3 Tablespoons of the shrimp mixture closer to the cut end. Fold the left and right side over the filling.  Holding the sides in place, fold the bottom flap up and roll the roll up into a cylinder.  Place spring rolls, on its seam, on a baking sheet that is slightly floured with cornstarch.  Repeat folding the remaining rolls.
Frying the spring rolls:
5.    Heat canola oil till 375F.  Drop several spring rolls into the oil and fry till golden brown, about 5 minutes each.  Immediately drain on a wire rack over a baking sheet.
Preparing the dipping sauce:
6.    Mix all the sauce ingredients together in a bowl and set aside.  Serve with hot spring rolls.

Serves: 24 portions

A tasty pesto with sharp herbal tones to match the robust, nutty taste of buckwheat noodles.

Chef’s tip: When making a pesto, don’t add the Parmesan till after you remove it from the food processor.  that way, the cheese won’t melt with the heat of the motor.  Also, always reserve some pasta water to add back to the pasta to create smooth, silky noodles.  Lastly long pepper is a fragrant, fruity peppercorn with a hint of sweetness and it’s the spice du jour.  Seek it out!

Asian Pesto:
2 cups Thai basil, stems removed
1/2 cup Rau Ram – Vietnamese coriander leaves
3 sprigs green onions, green parts only
1/2 bunch cilantro leaves
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1/2 teaspoon long pepper, freshly ground

1/4 cup Parmesan, grated

3 bunches dried soba, 1 inch diameter bunch

Preparing the Pesto:
1. Place all the herbs into the bowl of a food processor.  Process to chop up the leaves.  With the motor running, slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream.  Process till a smooth paste forms.
2.  Add in pine nuts, salt and pepper, pulse to chop and adjust seasoning if needed.
3. Transfer pesto to a bowl and mix in parmesan.  Drizzle on some olive oil to keep pesto green.
Preparing the soba:
4. Bring a pot of salted water to boil.  Add the soba and cook at a rolling boil until el dente, about 3 minutes, or according to package instructions.  Drain, but save some of the pasta water.  Transfer to a heated large bowl.
5. Toss the pasta with the pesto, adding in some of the pasta water (about 1/4 cup).
6. Serve with grated Parmesan.

Serves: 4

Fancy dinner nachos, or some call it a “chilaquiles.”  This is how we eat at home   Marco, my DH, makes the best dinner nachos – and he makes it often too, especially when the chef in the house is too lazy to cook!  Seriously, I have tried to imitate his dinner nachos and have yet to succeed.  This is HIS recipe!  Adding a dash of lime juice at the end sparks up the flavors.  This is a good comfort food!

Chef’s tip: To make avocado slices, run a knife around the avocado middle lengthwise and twist it to split it into two. Using the heel of your knife, make a small stab into the pit, twist to remove the pit. Discard the pit. Then using a paring knife, score the half avocado right down the middle, and then down the middle on each quarter. Do not cut into the skin. The avocado should still look like a half avocado. Using a spoon, scoop out the slivers.

Also, if you can find it, get the Primavera hand-made corn tortilla.  It’s thicker and soaks up the sauce.  And the sauce, I prefer the Las Palmas brand which is less starchy.

2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 red onion, sliced thinly
1/2 small red bell pepper, julienned
2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 pieces handmade corn tortilla, cut into 1 X 2 inch strips
1 14-oz can Las Palmas medium hot enchilada sauce
2 medium tomatoes, cut into medium dice
1 can red kidney beans, rinsed, drained
1 cup Monterey jack, shredded
1 avocado, sliced into 8 slivers
1 cup cilantro
1 lime, cut into wedges
1/2 cup sour cream

1. Heat some olive oil in a skillet under medium heat.  Saute the red onion, about 2 minutes till the onion is limp and slightly browned.  Add red bell peppers and saute another 2 minutes.
2. Add add more oil, add the cut tortilla and toss to brown, about 2 minute.
3. Pour in the enchilada sauce, cover and simmer for a minute.
4. Add in the tomatoes and kidney beans.  Cover and simmer another minute.
5. Sprinkle on the cheese, cover for half a minute until the cheese is melted.  Remove from heat.
6. Gently lay the avocado on top, garnish with cilantro and serve with wedges of lime and some sour cream on the side.

Serves: 2

This madeleine recipe is from my friend, Diane Quan, who is a very talented pastry chef.  Months ago, I tried my hand at madeleines – all the recipes I found were too complicated…one asked to leave the batter overnight in a refrigerator which resulted in the butter floating up and solidifying!  I even tried dusting off my very little knowledge of French and used a recipe book I picked up in Nice.  Tout ne success pas.  (I really think it was my rusty French not the recipe!  So much for remembrance of things past!)  Finally, I asked Diane to show me how, and she generously shared the recipe for this tender, yet moist cookie.  It has been a breeze ever since.

I have adapted the recipe to fool-proofed it for my own sake.  I have adjusted it to my taste (yes, less sweet) and converted the measurements to grams for precision …thanks to my digital scale (a must have for any who wants to bake).  I prefer to weigh my ingredients when it comes to baking rather than to rely on cup measurements.  Cake flour, for example, as it compacts easily, asks you to sift the flour prior to measuring, so with weighing, you eliminate any discrepancies.  It is very important to stick to the type of flour specified because of the gluten content.  It will determine how tender your madeleines will be.  If you ever want to learn more about flour types and why, or any science related to food, get the Harold McGee bible On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen.

Chef’s tip: Butter, egg must be at room temperature to ensure a fluffy and light dough.  Also, use the silver madeleine pans (not the nonstick ones) for better heat distribution.   Just butter it with room temperature butter generously with your fingers, then sift in flour, tap it over the sink and voila, you will have a nonstick pan!  Amazon carries very good tin-sheet madeleine pans at a good price.  

6 oz unsalted butter, room temperature
140 g sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
95g cake flour
35g all purpose flour
2 “AA” eggs, room temperature
Zest of 1 orange, meyer lemon or tangelo
1 teaspoon cardamom, finely ground

2 Tablespoons butter for greasing the pans
Some flour

Preheat oven 350F
1.    Beat butter and sugar till very light.  Add vanilla.  Beat to incorporate.
2.    Sift together the flours.
3.    Beat in the flour in 2 batches, alternating with egg, into the butter mixture.
4.    Fold in orange zest and cardamom
5.    Grease 2 madeleine sheets (shiny ones)  well with butter.  Dust with flour and shake out excess flour.
6.    Using the help of an additional spoon, drop in 1 heaping tablespoon of the batter into the madeleine moulds – to fill about ¾ full.  Smooth out any peaks.
7.    Bake for 15 minutes or until the edges are browned.  Turn out onto a cookie rack to cool.
8.    Dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Makes: 24

If you see quince in the market, buy it.  And lots of it.  The start of fall through about Thanksgiving is the season for this highly recherche fruit.  I thank my lucky stars that our family friends, the Cardinauxs, who have a ranch in Petaluma, shower us with this yellow gold.  Quince looks like a mishaped apple, a mishaped Bartlett with a fuzzy skin and about 1.5X the size of an apple.  Quince has a floral fragrant like a combination of sweet apples, pineapples, and peaches.  The problem with quince is that you can’t just grab one and bite into it, it’s super hard and super tart.  Hence you don’t see it in your local Safeway. You can cook it into a fruit pastille, or a membrillo, and bake a wonderful quince crumble.

I first fell in love with membrillo in Rio where they served it with some sort of queso fresco. But served membrillo with a Manchego, and you’ll have a marriage made in heaven.  Making membrillo requires a lot of TLC and a very strong arm.  You have to stand there and stir the pot non stop for 1- 1 1/2 hours, and beware of flying hot lava coming out of the pot.  But the end result is well worth the effort.  It makes a beautiful gift, as MC says “priceless”.

Chef’s tip: If you’d like, you can skip the peeling and coring if you use a food mill.  The skin and seeds will be caught by the mill.

Ingredients:
Quince, at least 4 lbs to make it worth the effort
Equal amounts of sugar
Some water

1. Peel and core the quince.  Cut into 2 inch cubes.
2. Cover the quince cubes with just enough water.  Simmer for 30 minutes until it is soft.  Drain.
3. Put quince into a food processor and blend till a smooth paste.  or if you are using unpeeled quince, then pass through a food mill.
4. Measure equal amounts of quince puree and sugar and place them into a heavy bottom pot.  I prefer my membrillo less sweet, so I add a fruit:sugar ratio of 1.25:1
5. Cook under medium heat for 1 – 1 1/2 hours, stirring constantly, until the paste has thickened into a deep, orange, red color.
6. Transfer the paste onto a baking sheet lined with a lightly greased parchment, and bake in a low oven – 125F for about an hour.
7. Store in the refrigerator, tighly wrapped, for up to 6 months.
8. To serve, slice thinly and serve with sliced manchego.

Serves: Many

The picture below of Manchego with Membrillo was taken at a friend’s wedding reception catered by Gerard’s Paella of Occidental.  Just the most beautiful presentation of this marriage made in heaven.

This is dressed-up hummus.  Adding some vadouvan pops the flavors in this hummus, while still preserving the basic goodness of mashed chickpeas. Vadouvan is an Indian French mix of the Pondicherry curry – that has hints of roasted shallots and is mild on the heat scale. Tahini, an important element of any hummus mutes the acid of the lemon while binding in the pungency of the garlic.  The masala pita points make a great snack on its own!

Chef’s tip:  You can get vadouvan at Le Sanctuaire (315 Sutter, SF).  If you can’t find vadouvan, make your own quick, poor man’s substitute: saute some shallots, garlic and a little bit of ginger with some oil under very low heat for 20 minutes till the onion is caramelized.  Then mix in some madras curry powder, an equal amount of ground fenugreek, chiffonades of curry leaves and some ground urad dhal, salt and pepper and continue to saute a minute more till it forms small lumps. Spread it on a baking tray and bake under low heat for an hour (or what they do in sunny South India, sun for 3 days!) A more detailed version can be found in Gourmet.com

Masala Pita:
1 Tablespoon cumin
1 Tablespoon fennel
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorn
1/2 teaspoon paprika

8 pieces 6-inch pita
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Hummus:
2 cans chickpeas / garbanzo, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup water
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 cup olive oil
1 lemon, juice
2 Tablespoons vadouvan
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon long pepper, ground
1/4 cup tahini

Some extra virgin olive oil
Edible flowers or parsley for garnish

Making the pita points:
1. Toast the fennel and cumin in a saute pan until fragrant.  Let cool slightly and grind in a spice grinder together with the black peppercorns and salt.
2. Preheat oven 350F.  Cut each pita into 8.  Lay pita points on a baking sheet and brush the top side with olive oil.
3. Sprinkle on spice mix and bake in the oven till golden, about 10 minutes.
Preparing the hummus:
4. In a food processor, combine all ingredients (reserving half a can of garbanzo) and blend till smooth.  Add more water if needed until a smooth consistency the thickness of peanut butter forms. Add the remaining garbanzo and give it a few pulse to create a hand-mashed lumpy feel to the dip.
5. Place hummus in the middle of a large platter.  Make a small indentation in the middle and drizzle on some olive oil.  Next take the flat end of the pita points and insert into the hummus, forming a sun star pattern around hummus.  Garnish with edible flowers or chopped parsley.

Serves: 8

Succulent morsels of sweet, savoury and lots of umami beef that literally melt in your mouth.  Bo Luc Lac – Shaking Beef – gets its name from the noise you make when you sear the beef in a wok.  This is an absolutely delicious dish that is so simple to prepare.  Except for the long marinating period, you can easily outdo Rachel Ray’s 30 minutes.

Chef’s tip: If you don’t want to wait overnight to get the beef marinated and truly keep this dish under 30 minutes, use an instant marinator.  The instant marinator works by removing all the air from the beef when you create a vacuum with the pump.  When you release the valve, the marinate then oozes into these empty cavities in the beef, bathing the beef with the seasonings of the marinade.

Marinade:
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 stalks lemon grass, finely 2 inches of the white portion
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons canola oil

1 1/2 lb beef tenderloin, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes.

Dressing:
1 red onion, finely sliced
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon brown sugar
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch of watercress

Preparing the Meat:
1.    Whisk together marinade ingredients
2.    Cut meat into 1 1/2 inch cube.  Marinate meat for at least a half hour, preferably overnight.
Preparing the salad:
3.    Slice onions thinly and place in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes.  Drain and pat dry.
4.    Toss together remaining dressing ingredient.
5.    Just before serving, toss watercress and onions with the dressing
Cooking the beef:
6.    Heat a cast iron pan or a wok on high heat.  Add oil and quickly sear the beef until it develops a brown crust.  About 2 minutes or less if you prefer your beef rare.
7.    Place hot beef on tossed watercress salad.  Drizzle in any pan juice.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 6

Tossing in as many Vietnamese herbs I can find from the only organic Asian vegetables vendor at the farmers markets in San Francisco Bay Area – Phan Organics Farm of Elk Grove (Civic Center Farmers, SF – Wed and Sun, Berkeley- Tue, Alemany – Sat), this super light noodle salad gives lots of exploding flavors.  It’s a great introduction to the world of Vietnamese herbs.

Chef’s tips: To chiffonade herbs, stack several leaves and roll them tightly.  With a sharp knife, slice the roll finely.  Fluff the sliced herbs to separate them.

Ingredients

Meat:
1 lb ground lean chicken or pork or turkey
2 stalk lemon grass, white part only, very finely sliced
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
Juice from 1 lime
1 Tablespoon rice flour, roasted

6 oz dried  rice vermicelli

Herb:
5 Thai chilies, deseeded and chopped finely
1 cup cilantro, chiffonade
½ cup green onions, sliced thinly
½ cup rau ram, chiffonade
½ cup shiso perilla leaves, chiffonade
½ cup mint leaves, chiffonade
5 kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade
Lime zest from 2 limes

Dressing:
Juice from 1 limes
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup fish sauce
½ teaspoon brown sugar
Cilantro or mint sprigs for garnish

Preparing the meat:
1.    Heat a non stick pan under high heat, add the ground meat, chopped lemongrass, 2 Tablespoons each of fish sauce and lime juice.  Cook 10 minutes until the meat is cooked through, while stirring constantly.  Transfer the meat to a large bowl.  Drain off excess liquids.  Cool.
2.    Dry-fry the rice flour (without any oil) under medium heat till golden brown. Add to the meat mixture.
Preparing the rice noodles:
3.    Bring a pot of salted water to boil.  Add rice noodles.  Bring back to a boil, cover, remove from heat and let noodles sit for 15 minutes in hot water.  Drain.
Preparing the herb and dressing:
4.    Slice and chiffonade the herbs.  Toss all herb ingredients together. Set aside.
5.    Mix dressing ingredients together.
Assembly:
6.    Toss the meat, noodles, herb and dressing together to combine.  Let sit for 10 minutes for the flavors to come together.
7.  Garnish with mint sprigs and cilantro.

Serves: 6

This vegetarian red curry sauce can be used with other vegetables such as eggplant, okras, zucchini, etc.  Again, I am using the store bought Thai curry paste, but supplementing it with additional spices and herbs.  I love the curry sauce with butternut squash, the sweetness of the squash complements the heat form the curry.

Chef’s tip: Do not let the coconut milk come to a vigorous boil or the milk will separate.  Always simmer on low heat, and stir occasionally.

Ingredients

1 small butternut squash, about 1 1/2 lbs, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon ginger, grated
1 Tablespoon galangar, grated
1 Tablespoon Thai red curry paste
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted then ground
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted, then ground
1 teaspoon black pepper corns, coarsely ground

3 cups coconut milk
5 pieces of kaffir lime leaves. chiffonade finely
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon palm / brown sugar
1-2 teaspoons kosher salt, to taste

Some kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade finely for garnishing

1.  Steam butternut squash for about 15 minutes or until tender.
2.  In a medium saucepot, heat 2 Tablespoons of oil, then add garlic, ginger and galangal.  Fry till fragrant,  about 3 minutes.  Add red curry paste, tomato paste, coriander, cumin and black peppercorns, and saute another minute.
3. Add coconut milk and simmer for a 10 minutes
4. Finely shred kaffir lime leaves, reserves a generous pinch for garnishing
5. Add shredded kaffir lime leaves, soy sauce, sugar, and salt.  Simmer uncovered until gravy has thicken.
6. Add in the cooked butternut squash and toss to  Simmer 3 minutes.
7. Remove from heat.
8.  Garnish with kaffir lime leaves.

Serves: 4

The Indonesian Sate Ayam or Chicken Satay is fully seasoned and marinated with spices, that it can be served without a peanut sauce.  If you do want to serve a peanut sauce, please look up the Malaysian version of the Chicken Satay.

Chef’s tips: To create a natural basting brush, save the green parts of the lemongrass.  Bunch them together at the leave end and tie with a piece of string.  Using a sharp knife, split each end of the lemongrass halfway up the stalk into four, making a brush.

Ingredients:

Marinade:
8 shallots, peeled, sliced
3 stalks lemon grass, white part, cut finely
2 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed
1 inch galangal, peeled, sliced
4 tablespoons palm sugar
2 tablespoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground fennel
1 tablespoon ground tumeric
½ teaspoon chili/ cayenne
1 tablespoon belachan
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon kicap manis / dark soy sauce
¼ cup coconut milk

2 lbs chicken thighs – boneless, skinless
20 bamboo skewers, soaked
3 tablespoons canola oil

To make the marinate and sate
1.    In a food processor, grind marinate ingredients together till a fine paste.
2.    Cut chicken into thin strips, 1 X ¼ X 4 inch.
3.    Marinate chicken in marinade at least 30 minutes.
4.    Skewer chicken with the bamboo skewers.  Brush with oil.  In a separate bowl, add 1 cup of oil with a couple tablespoons of oil for basting the chicken.
5.    On a hot oiled grill/broiler on high, grill chicken skewers  about 2 minutes on each side, or more depending on thickness, until nicely browned.  Baste frequently with oil and water solution.
Serving:
6.    Cut cucumber at an angle, avoiding the seeds.  Rotate cucumber per cut.
7.    Cut onions into small wedges.  Serve satay with peanut sauce and cut cucumbers & onions.
Serves: 6

This Northern Thai dish originates from Laos and is sometimes spelt “larb”.  Even tho’ it is served at room temperature, the heat from the Thai red chili will make you break a sweat.  This spicy sharpness together with the acid from the lime juice, the umami of the fish sauce, the essential oils from the mint and zest are balanced with the smokiness of the rice flour to create a flavor explosion moment.  Laab is typically served with sticky rice but I like to serve the laab on endives to make a tasty appetizer.  Using no oil in the cooking, this is as low fat as Asian foods go!

Chef’s tip: If you have the patience, pinch off the meat a little at a time as you add to the pot, instead of dunking the whole pound in all at once.  This will ensure every bit of meat surface gets browned.

Ingredients

Meat:
1 lb ground lean chicken or pork or turkey
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
2 Tablespoons lime juice

1 Tablespoon roasted rice powder (from 3 tablespoon glutinous rice)

Herb:
1 stalk lemon grass, white part only, very finely sliced
3 kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade
4 Thai chilies, deseeded and chopped finely
3 Tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 sprig green onions, sliced
3 Tablespoons mint leaves, chopped

Dressing:
Juice from 1 lime
1 Tablespoon lime zest
1 Tablespoon fish sauce
½ teaspoon brown sugar

Lettuce cups:
1 head of iceberg lettuce or 2 endives
Cilantro or mint sprigs for garnish

Preparing the meat:
1.    Heat a non stick pan under high heat, add the ground meat, 2 Tablespoons each of fish sauce and lime juice.  Cook 10 minutes until the meat is cooked through, while stirring constantly.  Transfer the meat to a large bowl.  Drain off excess liquids.
Preparing the toasted rice:
2.    Dry-fry the glutinous rice (without any oil) under medium heat till golden brown.
3.    Remove, let cool slightly and grind into a powder with a spice mill, or a mortar and pestle.  Set aside.
Preparing the herb and dressing:
4.    Slice lemongrass, kaffir, and chilies.   Zest lime.  Mince green onions, cilantro and mint.  Set aside.
5.    Mix dressing ingredients together.
Preparing the lettuce cups
6.    Remove the iceberg lettuce leaves one at a time and trim into little cups.  If using endives, leave leaves whole.  You may want to use the heart of the lettuce.
Assembly:
7.    Pour the rice powder, herb mixture and dressing into the cooked meat and toss to combine.  Let sit for 10 minutes for the flavor to come together.
8.    Scoop 2 tablespoons of the chicken into the lettuce cups and garnish with a sprig of cilantro or mint.

Serves: 6

Lotus Leaf Sticky Rice (at the dim sum table, call it “hor yip lor mai kai”) blends the Cantonese flavor trinity of Chinese lap cheung sausages, dried shrimp and Shiitake mushrooms.  The lotus leaf imparts a wonderful aroma to the rice.  If you can get fresh lotus leafs the better, otherwise, head to Chinatown and you can get a stack of two dozen dried leaves for like 99 cents.

The same rice filling makes a wonderful thanksgiving turkey stuffing….skip the lotus leaves, of course.

Chef’s tip: Cut off the stem end of the leaves to make the leaves more pliable.  Also, if use a Thai Sticky Rice bamboo steamer to produce the best sticky rice texture.

Ingredients:

6 dried lotus Leaves or six 1 cup-ramekins or small heat-proof bowls

1 1/2 cups sweet glutinous rice, soaked 6 hours
1 Tablespoons peanut oil
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups chicken stock

2 pieces boneless chicken thigh,trimmed, skinless, cut into ½ inch slices
1 Tablespoon peanut oil
½ Tablespoon oyster sauce
½ Tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon dried shrimp, soaked and drained
1 Chinese sausage, thinly sliced
6 pieces of fresh Shiitake mushroom, sliced
6 slices of char siu ( 4 oz), thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/4 cup of water
1 sprig green onions, chopped

Preparing the lotus leaves (if using, otherwise, slightly oil 6 ramekins).
1.    Snip off the hard stalks ends of the lotus leaf.  Soak the lotus leaves in hot water until softened.  Cut into 2 if they are large.
Preparing the rice.
2.    Wash the rice and cover with water.  Set aside at least 6 hours to overnight.
3.    Prepare a large pot of water with steamer.  Line steamer with cheesecloth.  Drain rice.  Place rice evenly on the cheesecloth.
4.    Place rice in a steamer over boiling water and steam for 20 minutes.  Transfer rice to a bowl.
5.    Mix the oil, sugar, and stock in a small pot and bring to a boil.  Pour the hot stock into the cooked rice mixture and stir.  Cover with plastic wrap and leave to stand 10-15 minutes.
Preparing the filling
6.    Marinate the chicken with oyster sauce, soy sauce, cornstarch, sugar and sesame oil.
7.    In the wok, heat the oil, fry the dried shrimp and Chinese sausage.  Set to the side of the wok.  Add garlic and saute for half a minute until it becomes light golden then add chicken.  Brown the chicken, about 2 minutes.  (need not be cooked through).
8.   Add mushroom, char siu and toss back the dried shrimp and sausage.
9.    Add ½ cup of water and add to the wok.  Stir until the sauce is thick and glazes the meat.  Remove from heat and toss in the green onions.
Assembling
10.    When rice is done, divide into 12 portions.  Divide the filling into 6 portions.
11.    Place lotus leave flat on a work surface.  Patch any holes with additional leave pieces.
12.    Place 1 portion of rice onto the center of the leave. Make a well in the center.    Place a portion of the filling.  Drizzle in any sauce from the chicken.  Top with another portion of rice.  Pack it tightly to make a small rectangular mass about 3 inch X 2 inch.
13.    Wrap one side of the leaves over the filling, then take the opposite side and overlap like you are folding a business letter into 3.  Then take the left third and fold it under the rice middle.  Repeat with the opposite side.  Place the rice bundle on its folded ends on a steamer.
Steaming
14.    Place lotus parcels in steamer basket over simmering water and steam for 30 minutes. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 6

Black rice has a nutty, slight sweet and chewy texture with the aroma of coconut and for those of you who may be familiar with it, a pandan fragrant.  You can easily find black rice in Korean grocery stores or health food stores, where the rice is more commonly labeled as Forbidden Rice.  Its deep purple color makes a stunning presentation while boasting a high nutritional value.  Buy the regular black rice to serve as carbs (i.e., not glutinous or sweet black rice, which are more apt for desserts).

Chef’s tip: Cooking black rice is like cooking brown rice.  Pre-soaking the rice helps to make it cook faster.  Wrapping your pot lid with a dish towel prevents condensation from falling back into rice and making the rice soggy.  Tie the towel to the lid knob to prevent it from catching fire.

Ingredients:

2 cups black rice
3 cups water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, optional

1. Rinse the rice.  Soak in water for 30 minutes.  Drain.
2. Add 3 cups of water to the rice.  Add salt if using.
3. Bring to boil.  When it comes to a boil, turn heat to a simmer.  Cover pot with lid that is wrapped with a dish towel.  Simmer on low for 30 minutes.  Do not uncover.
4. Remove from heat, and let sit for 10 minutes further. Do not uncover nor fluff.
5. Fluff before serving.

Serves: 4

Malaysian curries do not rely on dried spices like cumin or coriander, but use more fragrant herbs and roots like  lemongrass, galangal (blue ginger) and fresh tumeric.  This Straits Nyonya curry comes from Penang,  and uses kaffir lime leaves as well which give the curry a citrusy flavor and fragrant.  The Nyonya cuisine is the original fusion cuisine.  The cuisine dates back 500 years, when Chinese traders sailed to the Malay peninsula and married local Malay women.  The resultant cuisine came from the marriage of these  two cultures.

Chef’s tip: Jacob Farm’s carries organic kaffir leaves in those plastic blister boxes you can find at stores like Wholefoods and Safeway. Kaffir leaves freeze well. Just pop the remaining into the freezer and you will have a constant supply of this fragrant wonder.

Ingredients

Spice paste:
6 red jalapeno chilies
8 shallots
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon roasted belacan*
3 stalks lemon grass
1 inch galangal
1 inch fresh tumeric / 1 teaspoon turmeric powder
5 candlenuts, optional

½ cup canola oil
1 small chicken, cut into 8 pieces (reserve backbones and wings for other use)
3 cups coconut milk (reserve 1/2 cup)
1 cup water or more if needed
1 Tablespoon kosher salt, to taste
5 pieces of kaffir lime leaves
4 medium Yukon potatoes, peeled

1.    Parboil peeled potatoes.  Set aside.  Cut each potato into 2.
2.    In a food processor, grind all spice paste ingredients into a smooth paste
3.    In a heavy bottom pot, heat oil on medium high.  Fry paste till fragrant, red and oil has separated, about 5-7 minutes
4.    Add chicken pieces and fry for about 3 minutes.
5.    Add 2 1/2 cups coconut milk and water.   Add enough water to just barely cover the chicken if needed.   Add salt.  Simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6.    Finely shred kaffir lime leaves, reserves a generous pinch for garnishing
7.    Add finely shredded kaffir lime leaves, potatoes and simmer uncovered until chicken is tender and gravy has thicken, about 20 minutes.  Add remaining half cup of coconut milk.  Bring to a boil.  Remove from heat.
8.    Let sit for 15 minutes before serving.  Skim off some of the red oil that surfaced.
9.    Garnish with kaffir lime leaves

Serves: 4

The best duck curry I had was in Bangkok at the Oriental Hotel (of course!).  My friend, Karen and I loved the duck curry at Sala Rim Naam — between our marathon massage sessions, we would take the river taxi across the Chao Praya just to have the duck curry. The river ride adds to the eating experience!

Well, on this side of the Pacific, I take the short cut of using store-bought roasted duck from Chinatown and whip out a quick red curry sauce.  Don’t worry about making your own curry paste – the Thais use the bottled ones, so why don’t we, too.

Chef’s tip: Save the bonier parts of the duck for other uses. The five spice seasoning in the carcass sometimes overpowers the curry. Thai Kitchen’s brand fish sauce and curry paste are pretty good.

Ingredients

½ cup of coconut cream
3 cloves of garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste

2 cups coconut milk
5 pieces of kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade finely
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
1 Tablespoon palm / brown sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt, to taste

1 cup mini Thai eggplant (or 1/2 Japanese eggplant cut into 3/4 inch length)
1 zuchinni, cut into 1 inch pieces

1 roasted duck (from Hong Kong-style delis)

10 lycees or grapes
10 cherry tomatoes
A sprig of basil

1. In a medium saucepot, heat 1/2 cup coconut cream on medium high till it begins to bubble.  Add curry paste and sliced garlic.  Fry till fragrant, red and oil has separated, about 5-7 minutes
2. Add remaining coconut milk and simmer for a few minutes
3. Finely shred kaffir lime leaves, reserves a generous pinch for garnishing
4. Add shredded kaffir lime leaves, fish sauce, sugar, and salt.  Add eggplant and zuchinni.  Simmer uncovered until gravy has thicken.
5. Cut duck into 8 pieces (reserve bones and wings for other use) and add to the curry.  Simmer 3 minutes.
6. Remove from heat.  Add grapes/lycee and tomatoes.
7.  Garnish with kaffir lime leaves and basil.

Serves: 4

Kobis Masak Lemak is a “comfort food” Malay dish.  A simple cabbage stew mainly consisting of coconut and cabbage.  This dish makes a great complement to the spicier curries.

Chef’s tip: Finishing with coconut cream lends a rich gloss and flavor to the sauce. It’s like monte-au-beurre, Malay-style.

Ingredients
1 head of savoy cabbage, torn into large pieces
3 red jalapenos, seeded and julienned
4 shallots, sliced finely
2 cloves garlic, sliced finely
½ cup dried shrimp, soaked and chopped

3 Tablespoons canola oil
2 cups coconut milk, reserve half cup thick cream
2 cups water
1 Tablespoon sugar
1-2 Tablespoons kosher salt, to taste

Preparation:
1.    Separate cabbage leaves and tear into large pieces
2.    Julienne the red jalapeno, slice the shallots
3.    Chop the soaked dried shrimp
Cooking the dish
4.    In a large pot, heat the oil.  Add shallots and fry till the shallots in limp, about 3 minutes.
5.    Add the garlic and dried shrimp and fry for another minute.
6.    Add the cabbage, jalapeno, coconut milk, water, sugar and salt.
7.    Bring to boil.  Partly cover the pot and simmer on medium for 30 minutes until the cabbage becomes very soft. Add the remaining coconut cream.
8.    Let sit at least 15 minutes before serving

Serves: 6

You see nasturtium everywhere in San Francisco.  Its bright multi-hue orange flowers are wonderful on salad – besides giving a burst of colors, its peppery, watercress-like flavor lends a refreshing flavor explosion.  I picked so many flowers, I decided to make a pesto out of it.  The goat cheese complements the spiciness of the flowers.  And the bright orange pesto makes a stunning presentation.

Chef’s tip: Save the leaves for salads. Its peppery watercress-like flavor adds a zing to any salad.

Ingredients:

1 baguette, sliced 3/8-inch at a diagonal
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic

6 cups nasturtium flowers, stems removed
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 carrot, finely grated to make 2 cups
2 cloves garlic
1/2 cup pine nuts
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Some freshly cracked black pepper

4 oz goat cheese, at room temperature
Some nasturtium flowers for garnish
Pine nuts for garnish
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
To make the crostini:
1.  Slice baguette into 3/8 inch thick pieces. Place bread slices on a sheet pan, brush one side with olive oil.
2.  Bake in a 375F oven for 7-10 minutes until golden brown. Immediately rub with a piece of garlic.
To make the pesto:
3.  Place flowers, olive oil, grated carrots and garlic in the bowl of a food processor.  Puree until a smooth paste.  Add pine nuts, and salt and pepper.
Assemble:
4. Spread some goat cheese on the crostini, top with a tablespoon of pesto.
5. Garnish with some nasturtium and pine nuts.  Drizzle on some extra olive oil.

Serves: 6

Two Dog Farm’s Dry-Farmed Early Girls are back!  There is no better way to savor their sweetness than to generously drizzle the tomatoes with the best extra virgin olive oil you can get, a splash of balsamic, a sprinkle of Maldon salt, and some fresh mozarella or even better, a scoop of burrata.  Top with some fresh basil.

Chef’s tip: Burrata comes from Puglia and it’s pretty hard to find even in food-obsessed San Francisco.  A local brand called Gioia (I believe it’s made right here in the East Bay) is pretty good. Burrata is essentially cheese curds wrapped with sheets of mozarella. It’s highly perishable, so use it the same day you by it. Frankly, it’s really not that hard!

Nettle is a weed really, and you can find them in the fields if you just look. Don’t go picking them as its sting is quite painful. You need to protect your hands with a pair of rubber gloves when handling nettle. Hence, you will gladly pay for the $6/lb at the Ferry Building.

I grow my own nettle in my little urban “potager” on my balcony 271 ft above ground level (thanks Google Earth!). I took the washing liquid from a bunch of nettles I got from Star Route Farm and poured it onto a big pot of soil. Kept the soil moist and lo and behold, a few weeks later, tiny nettles began sprouting and they just grew and grew! Here’s a picture of my nettle “crop”. If you are planting nettles in the garden, do remember it’s pernicious and has a pretty potent sting, so you don’t want your dogs or toddler running into it!

Chef’s tip: Even tho its sting may intimidate you at first, just use a pair of tongs to handle it. Store-bought nettles are pretty sandy.  Rinse them in lots of water, shaking them with the tongs.  Nettle loses its sting when cooked even 1 minute in boiling water; its flavor is well worth the trouble!

Filling:
1 lb ricotta
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup finely grated parmesan

32 pieces wonton skin squares
Some rice flour for dusting

Pesto:
1 lb nettle
2 tablespoons butter/ EVOO
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper

1/2 cup pine nuts, roasted
Parmesan wedge for grating

To make the ravioli filling (Omit if using store bought cheese ravioli like the picture in this post!)
1.    Mix together ricotta, lemon zest, salt and parmesan for the filling.
2.    To fold the ravioli, lay out wonton skin squares, 4 at a time. Brush edges with a water (just slightly damp). Place a teaspoon of filling in the center of each square and fold over to make a triangle shape, pressing edges to seal. Take the two corners along the long edge of the triangle and bring together to have both bottom sides meet (as if the raviolo is clapping with the back of its palms; the raviolo will look twisted) and press the tips to fuse together. Place finished raviolo on a baking tray dusted with rice flour. Repeat and set aside until pesto is done.
To make the nettle pesto:
3.    Rinse and wash nettles using rubber gloves and a pair of tongs. Drain and spin-dry with a salad spinner. Remove any large stems (they make great compost as they give out lots of nitrogen, no seeds nor flowers, though).
4.    Melt butter in a medium saucepot over medium high heat and add sliced garlic; sauté until golden brown. Add nettles, cover immediately to capture the aroma and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add cream and salt, let the liquid reduce to half; about 1 minute. Taste. (Make sure nettles are cooked before you taste them; they loose their stinging qualities once cooked.)  Finish with some black pepper.
5.    Using a handheld blender, puree nettle until smooth. Keep warmed.
Cooking the ravioli:
6.    To cook the ravioli, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Drop half the ravioli gently into the water, wait until all float to the top. Remove and drain. Repeat.
7.    Spoon the nettle pesto over the cooked ravioli. Sprinkle with pine nuts and serve with some grated parmesan.

Chef’s tip: Make a jar of the shallot oil, it keeps for a few weeks. You can drizzle it on top of vegetables, tofu, or even add to a salad dressing.

Shallot oil:
2 shallots, sliced thinly
½ cup canola oil

Spice Paste:
4 fresh red Jalapeno
6 shallots
1 inch fresh turmeric
1 inch galangal
1 inch ginger

Spice:
¼ cup of canola oil for frying
2 sticks cinnamon
1/2 star anise
1 teaspoon fennel, ground
½ teaspoon cumin, ground
1 Tablespoon coriander seeds, ground
1 Tablespoon curry powder

Broth:
2 cups coconut milk
4 cups chicken broth
2 Tablespoons tamarind concentrate
1 teaspoon sugar
2 Tablespoons kosher salt, to taste
2 Tablespoons crunchy peanut butter
1 ½ cups mashed sweet potatoes

16 oz fresh egg noodles

Topping:
8 oz shrimp, peeled, tails-on
12 fried tofu puffs, sliced thin
1 cup mungbean sprouts
3 eggs, hard boiled, sliced
1 cup English cucumber, shredded
1 red jalapeno
Cilantro
1 lime, wedges

Preparing the shallot oil:
1.    In a small pot, heart ½ cup canola oil.  When warm, add sliced shallts and cook until golden brown.  Remove from heat.  Set aside.
2.    Preparing the spice paste:
3.    Grind together spice paste ingredients in a food processor until smooth.  Set aside.
Preparing the soup base:
4.    Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat until just hot.  Stir in spice paste, cinnamon sticks and star anise.  Cook, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes.  Add the remaining spices – fennel, cumin, coriander and curry powder.  Saute until the red oil separates from the spice paste about 5 minutes more.
5.    Lower the heat, slowly add coconut milk and chicken stock and bring to a slow simmer, stirring constantly.  Simmer for at 20-30 minutes.  Add tamarind, sugar and salt to taste. Whisk in peanut butter and mashed potatoes.
Preparing the noodles:
6.    Bring another pot of salted water to boil and blanch egg noodles till tender but still firm.  Rinse egg noodles under cold water to remove the starch.
Preparing the topping:
7.    Bring a pot of water to boil. Separately blanch shrimp, sprouts, and tofu puffs.
8.    Finely julienne cucumber and jalapeno.
Assembly
9.    Place a serving of noodles, and top with sliced tofu, shrimp, bean sprouts and ladle some broth over.   Garnish with cucumber, jalapeno, cilantro, sliced eggs and a teaspoon of fried shallots and a little shallot oil.
10.    Serve with quartered limes.

Serves: 4

Probably one of the best ways to eat maitakes.  Using rice flour for the batter, deep frying the mushrooms to perfection at 375F gives the tempura a nice big crunch.  The woodsy, robust flavor of chicken-of-the-woods mushrooms works very well with the lime salt…..deep fried margarita, anyone?…I mean, maitake.

Chef’s tip: Sprinkling the maitake with some cornstarch absorbs any excess moisture, and allows the batter to adhere to the mushrooms better.

Ingredients:
Zest of 1 lime
2 tablespoon Maldon sea salt

1 lb maitake or hens of the woods mushroom

Batter:
2 cups rice flour
1 egg yolk
2 cups club soda, chilled cold

1 cup of cornstarch
kosher salt
4 cups of canola oil
Lime, cut into wedges

Preparing the lime sea salt:
1.    Using a mortar and pestle, muddle salt with zest.  Salt can be stored in an air tight container for up to 2 weeks.
Preparing the mushroom:
2.    Wipe maitake with a damp towel to clean.  Trim roots.  Break into small chunks about 2 inch square.
Preparing the batter:
3.    Whisk egg yolk, rice flour and club soda in large bowl until just blend.
Cooking the tempura:
4.    Heat canola oil in a deep fry pan till 375F
5.    Working in batches, sprinkle cornstarch on maitake to cover entirely, then dredge in batter and fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes.  Using slotted spoon, transfer mushroom to a baking rack over a sheet pan to drain.
6.    Sprinkle with kosher salt immediately
7.    Repeat for remaining maitakes, making sure temperature is maintained at 375F
8.    Serve with lime sea salt, and wedges of lime.

Serves: 4

This picture was taken eons ago on my first gen digital camera…before I got my VR lens and my D70.  But the memory of that meal at Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi is still as vivid as ever.  You climb this steep stairs, or more aptly called, a ladder, to get to the second floor of this nondescript shop lot in the old town of Hanoi.  As immediately as you sit down, a charcoal stove appears, together with a variety of Asian herbs and a simmering pan of bright orange tumeric oil.  This was the most simple and memorable meal I had in Hanoi.  I was heady with the smell of turmeric, dill, rau ram and all the wonderful Vietnamese herbs and the sweet smell of fried fresh fish.  Or was it the carbon monoxide from the numerous charcoal stoves in the room that was making me giddy?  I have tried to reproduce the recipe based on that memorable meal sans charcoal.

Chef’s tip: Make sure you have everything mise-en-place before you start cooking. The cooking itself literally takes minutes.  Traditionally, the freshwater snakehead fish is used.  Catfish or tilapia is a good substitute.  I like it with the more fatty salmon.

And here’s an updated picture 10 years later.

Marinade:
3 inches of galangal – Thai ginger
2 Tablespoons water
2 Tablespoon fish sauce
3 Tablespoon tumeric powder
1 Tablespoon rice wine
1 Tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 Tablespoon grapeseed/ safflower oil

1 ½ lb fresh salmon (tilapia or catfish works well, too)

1 (4 oz) package of thin rice vermicelli, cooked and drained

8 approx. 2”X4” pieces of butter/green lettuce leaf, ribs removed
12 sprigs mint, chiffonade
1 bulb of fennel, thinly sliced
1 red onion, thinly sliced
½ bunch cilantro, tear into smaller sprigs
½ bunch of green onions, julienned, separate white from green
1 cup Rau Ram – polygonum (Vietnamese Mint), chiffonade
1 cup Fresh basil, chiffonade

1 lb dill, stemmed, cut into 3 inch strip
1 ½ cups of grapeseed/ safflower oil

Nuac Mam:
1 red chile, diced finely / 1 tablespoon Sri Racha sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 Tablespoons sugar
Juice of 1 lime
2 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
4 Tablespoons water
2 Tablespoons fish sauce

½ cup roasted peanuts
2 limes, cut into wedges

Preparing the Fish:
1.    Grate galangal and mix with 2 tablespoons warm water, squeeze juice and discard solids.
2.    Whisk together marinade ingredients with galangal juice
3.    Cut salmon into 1 inch cubes and marinate fish for at least a half hour.
Preparing the vegetables and rice vermicelli:
4.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Drop rice vermicelli in, bring to boil again. Cover for 15 minutes.  Drain and fluff.  Place in the middle of a large platter.
5.    Wash and clean all vegetables, spin to dry.
6.    Sliced fennel and onion finely. Place onions in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes.  Drain.
7.    Chiffonade herbs except dill. Set herbs and vegetables around the rice noodles on the platter.
Cooking the fish:
8.    Heat a cast iron pan or a wok on high heat
9.    Add oil and cook salmon till golden brown.
10.    Add the dill, cook for 1 minute.
11.    Toss in white part green onions.
12.    Ladle salmon over the rice noodles, sprinkle with ground peanuts.
Just before serving, toss together to mix in herbs and vegetables.
Preparing the nuoc mam dipping sauce:
13. Blend together all nuoc mam ingredients.
To serve:
14.    Serve with nuoc mam, cut lime and freshly cracked black pepper on the side.

Serves: 6