I try to provide recipes that preserve most of the traditional flavors with as little work as possible.  In classic business terms, a high ROI in the kitchen, and in simpler language, making ethnic food accessible.

This is a quick, modern version of the beloved Thai Panaeng beef curry.  Since we have access to quality beef here, the traditional slow simmer turns into a quick stir-fry, and you will have a very tasty curry in a matter of minutes instead of hours.  In addiition, instead of  boiling peanuts, and grinding them down to make the paste base, I reached for freshly ground pure peanut butter that you can find in many grocery stores these days.

Chef’s tip: “Cracking” coconut milk means separating the cream into its oil, and using the oil to fry the spices.  Unfortunately, canned coconut milk is homogenized and is a hard nut to crack (pun!).  And fresh coconut milk is almost impossible to obtain here in the Bay Area. To achieve a similar effects, you can add a tablespoon of coconut oil to the coconut cream.

Sauce:

2 cups unsweetened coconut milk, separate into 2 parts
1 Tablespoon coconut oil
1/2 Tablespoon ginger, peeled and grated
2 cloves garlic, minced

1 Tablespoon Thai red curry paste
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
2 Tablespoons creamy peanut butter
1/2 Tablespoon curry powder
1/2 Tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground
6 kaffir lime leaves, tough middle stem removed, torn into large pieces

2 Tablespoons fish sauce
2 Tablespoons palm sugar

10 basil leaves, whole

2 lbs grass-fed beef steak  – Chateaubriand, NY Strip or rib-eye, trimmed, cut into ½ inch thin strips

1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper

Garnish:
1 sprig basil
2 kaffir lime leaves, finely chiffonade
¼ cup coconut cream

1.     In a heavy saucepan over medium high heat, add half the coconut milk, ginger and garlic and bring to a boil, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes, until the oil starts to separate aka crack.
2.     Add curry paste, tomato paste, peanut butter, curry powder, paprika, cumin, coriander and kaffir leaves and sauté, stirring, 1 minute, or until fragrant.
3.     Add fish sauce, and palm sugar and remaining coconut milk.  Stir together.  Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes until thick.
4.     Slice the meat at an angle against the grain, about ½ inch thick. Season with salt and pepper.
5.     Raise the heat on the curry sauce to moderately high, add the meat to the pan and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Cook for another 2 minutes for medium rare or longer for more doneness.
6.     Taste for seasoning, adding more fish sauce or palm sugar as needed.
7.     Remove from heat. Stir in the basil leaves.  Transfer to a serving bowl.
8.     Drizzle with reserved coconut milk. Garnish with a sprig basil and kaffir ribbons.

Serves 6

This simple, Vietnamese-influenced shrimp salad encompasses the full flavors of hot, sweet, sour and salty.   The dressing is really versatile and you can vary the choice of fruit, too – for example, use pomelo, green papaya, even Granny Smith apples, peaches or cantaloupe.

Chef’s tip:  To peel soft, ripe fruits like mangoes or peaches, use a serrated peeler.  Kent mangoes work well for this salad.  To seed it, peel the mango.  Then cut off about 1/2 inch off the bottom and it will reveal part of the oval, flat shaped seed.  Noting the flat side of the seed from the cut tip,  stand the mango on the cut tip, then cut along the flat side of the seed from the top down, applying a slight pressure towards the seed.  Repeat with the opposite side.  Then carefully slice off both vertical side edges along the seed.  To chiffonade herbs, stack several leaves, then roll them tightly into a little cigar.  Next, slice through the roll to create thin slices.  Fluff the sliced herbs to break up the strands.

Dressing
3 small Thai red chilies, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large shallot, finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil (not extra virgin)
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons palm sugar/ brown sugar
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon finely chopped kaffir lime leaves, optional

Salad
1 lb medium sized shrimp, shelled, deveined
2 ripe, firm mangoes, peeled, cut into thick juliennes
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
1/2 cup coarsely chopped basil leaves
1/2 cup mint, chiffonade

1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

Preparing the Dressing and topping:
1.  Place the ingredients for the dressing in a small bowl and whisk together until thoroughly combined.
Preparing the shrimp
2.  In a pot of salted boiling water, drop in the cleaned shrimp.  when shrimp turns pink, remove and immediately plunge into an ice bath.   Drain and pat dry.
Preparing the salad
3. Peel mangoes, and remove pit and slice flesh into thick juliennes.  Toss mangoes herbs and half the dressing.  Set aside.
4. Toss the shrimp with remaining dressing.  And place on top of the mangoes.
5. Garnish with pine nuts and cilantro leaves.

Serves: 6

Pho purists will probably pooh pooh over this faux pho since I used store-bought beef broth.  Horrors.  But before you click on to another page, give this a try.  For 20% of the work, you get more than 80% of the flavor.  Frankly, it’s almost as good as the real thing. I recently taught a class on South East Asian street foods at Sur La Table, and had 2 hours to do 5 dishes.  Given a decent pot of beef stock takes 5-6 hours, we had to use the boxed version.  It takes literally less than 15 mins to pull this noodle dish together.  How is that for a quick pho?

Chef’s tip: OK — if you want truly want the real thing, buy about 6 lbs or more of beef bones – shanks, oxtails…those parts with good marrows.  Place bones in a big pot of water, bring to boil and let boil 10 mins.  Pour off the water and rinse the pot and bones of scum.  Next, measure in 10 quarts of water, and bring to boil, then simmer 5 hours, while continuously removing scum and oil that form on top  Remove bones and any other solids.  Strain the broth.  Place in the fridge overnight, remove the solid layer of oil that forms.  Now, the broth is ready for use.  Move on to Step 1 below.

Broth:

8 quarts beef broth (unsalted preferably)
2 (3-inch) pieces ginger, skin on
2 small yellow onions, skin on, root removed
1 large white radish, peeled, cut into 2 inch chunks
8 whole star anise
6 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
Cheesecloth
¼ cup fish sauce, or more to taste
3 tablespoons sugar

1 ½ lbs dried 1/16-inch-wide rice sticks, soaked

1 lb beef sirloin or tenderloin

Garnish:
½ yellow onion, sliced paper-thin
½ cup scallions, chopped
½ cup cilantro, chopped
4 cups mung bean sprouts
16 sprigs Asian basil
1 serrano or jalapeno chili, cut into thin rings
2 lime, cut into thin wedges

Sri Racha hot sauce
Hoisin sauce

1. Bring the beef broth to a boil in a large stockpot.
2. Char the onion and ginger pieces over an open flame. Peel and discard the blackened skins of the ginger and onions, then rinse, cut into 2 and add to the broth. Add radish.  Boil at medium flame for 30 minutes.
3. Place all spices into a cheesecloth and make into a bundle.  Add spice bags into broth, boil another 30 minutes.
4. Add fish sauce and sugar.  Taste, and add more if needed.  The broth should be quite salty as it will be balanced by the noodles.  Remove spice bag, onion, ginger and radish.  If necessary, strain the broth.
5. Slice the onion paper thin.  Soak in cold water for 30 minutes, drained and pat dry.
6. Chop scallions and cilantro and mix together.  Set aside
7. Place bean sprouts, herbs, chilies and lime wedges on a central plate.
8. Soak the rice noodles in cold water for at least 20 minutes.  Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the drained rice noodles. Give the noodles a quick stir and cook until tender but firm — less than 1 minute. Drain immediately.  Use immediately.
9. Pop the beef into the freezer.  When slightly frozen, remove and slice paper thin against the grain.
10. To serve, place the cooked noodles in bowls.  Place a few slices of the raw sirloin on the noodles. Bring the broth to a rolling boil; ladle about 2 to 3 cups into each bowl. The broth will cook the raw beef instantly. Garnish with yellow onions, scallions and cilantro mix. Serve immediately with the platter of sprouts and herbs, and Sri Racha and hoisin sauce.

Serves: 8

I just can’t get enough of the dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes.  You can have it in a classic Caprese or top it on top of a good slice of crostini to make a light dinner.

Chef’s tip: To chiffonade basil, stack the leaves.  Roll tightly into a compact cylinder.  Using a sharp knife, slice thinly horizontally across the roll.  Fluff up the basil.

1 loaf sour battard, cut into 8 thick slices
The best EVOO you have
2 cloves garlic

2 lbs Early Girl tomatoes, preferably from Two Dog Farm
Your favorite sea salt
1 lb Goia burrata
16 basil leaves, chiffonade
Freshly ground black pepper

To make the crostini:
1.  Slice bread into 3/8 inch thick pieces. Place bread slices on a sheet pan, brush one side with olive oil.
2.  Bake in a 375F oven for 7-10 minutes until golden brown. Immediately rub with a piece of garlic.
To make the caprese salad:
3.  Squeeze tomatoes of excess juice.  Cut into small dice.
4. Toss with salt and some extra virgin olive oil.
Assembling:
5. Spoon tomatoes over the crostini.  Sprinkle on basil.  Top with a generous portion of burrata.
6. Finish with more olive oil, salt and pepper.

Serves: 4

The perfume of the typical Thai aromatics of galangal, lemongrass, coriander and kaffir lime leaves is infused in the tender flaky fish.  The lime-nuoc nam dressing is well suited for oily white fish,

Chef’s tip: Baking en papilotte is a simple solution to steaming fish, especially if you have a big piece of fish and limited pot sizes.  There are many ways to crimp the parchment paper, some requires no staples.  I just use the staple approach to create a fool-proof leak-proof envelope.

Ingredients

Garlic Oil:
3 cloves garlic
1/3 cup of oil

Sauce:
4 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine
1 ½ tablespoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
1-2 lime – make about 1/3 cup juice
3 tablespoons water

Aromatics:
2 red jalapeno, seeded, minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 coriander/cilantro roots, or 4 tablespoons cilantro stems, minced finely
1 stalk scallions, white part minced, green part julienned about 1 inch long for garnish
1 inch ginger, peeled, julienned finely
1 inch galangal, peeled, grated
3 kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade finely
3 stalks lemon grass – white part only, cut into 2 lengthwise, smashed

Fish:
4 pieces of parchment paper – 12 X 20 inch
2 lbs escolar / butter fish fillet/ sustainably-farmed chilean sea bass (or any fatty white fish, too)
A handful of cherry tomatoes

Garnish:
1 cup cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
1 cup of basil, preferably Thai

Preparing the infused oils and sauce
1.    Coarsely chop garlic. Heat oil.  Fry garlic till golden.  Drain and set aside.
2.    Mix sauce ingredients with 4 tablespoons garlic oil.  Set aside.
Preparing the, aromatics and garnish
3.    Mince jalapeno, garlic, cilantro stems, and scallion white part.
4.    Grate galangal, and using a mortar and pestle, grind cilantro roots into a paste, if using.
5.    Julienne ginger and chiffonade kaffir
6.    Julienne scallions green parts, coarsely chop cilantro leaves and chiffonade basil.  Reserve for garnish.
Preparing the fish en papillote
7.    Preheat oven 425F*
8.    Remove fish bones and pins.
9.    Take a large piece of parchment paper 30 x 22 inch, fold into half, and lay it flat on a baking sheet.  Unfold the parchment and lay pieces of smashed lemon grass at the base followed by half of the aromatic mixture.
10.    Place a fish on top.  Top with remaining aromatic mixture.
11.    Drizzle the sauce on top.
12.    Next sprinkle on julienned ginger and kaffir leaves.  Toss in the tomatoes.
13.    Cover the fish with the other half of the parchment paper and fold over edges, stapling if necessary to create an airtight seal.
14.    Bake in oven for about 15 minutes, depending on thickness of fish, rotating once.
15.    Open the package carefully, avoiding the steam.  Sprinkle with basil, cilantro, and green scallions. Drizzle with a teaspoon garlic oil.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 6

This week, I got a big box of spices from my friend, Karina, from Singapore.  She sent me a kilogram of dried “bunga telang” – blue pea flower, a type of tropical morning glory. It’s an edible flower and we use its brilliant indigo blue pigment as a natural food dye.  See the pictures below for a view of the brilliant blue color!   You can’t imagine how excited I was.  Even when I lived in Malaysia, bunga telang is hard to come by.  If we see it on vines by the roadside, we would stop the car to pick some.

So what do you do with these blue flowers?  Nasi Ulam or in the East Coast of Malaysia, sometimes refered to as Nasi Kerabu.  “Ulam” means a medley of herbs.  The rice salad is tossed with, yes, a medley of Asian herbs, dried coconut and dried fish flakes.  If you want to keep it vegetarian or serving the rice to less adventurous palates, just skip the dried seafood part.  It tastes just as yummy.

Chef’s tip: Toasting coconut is just as easy on the stove top as in the oven.  Coconut burns really fast, so remove it from the heat source a tinge below your desired color, and it will continue cooking on its own.

3 Tablespoons dried bunga telang, soaked in 1½ cup water
1 cup Jasmine rice
1 cup Jasmine rice + 1½ cup water

2 oz salt cod, soaked 10 minutes, drained, optional
¼ cup dried shrimp, soaked, drained, optional

1 cup shredded, unsweetened desiccated coconut

Herb mix
½ cup mint leaves, chiffonade
½ cup Thai basil leaves, chiffonade
½ cup Rau Ram leaves, chiffonade
½ cup cilantro leaves, chiffonade
¼ cup perilla/shiso leaves. chiffonade
½ cup Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped
¼ cup sorrel leaves, finely chiffonade
2 tablespoon kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade
½ cup shallots from 2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 inch fresh tumeric, thin juliennes
1 inch galangal, thin juliennes
1 lemon grass, white only, finely sliced
1 ginger flower, finely sliced
Note: You can use any fragrant herb, if you cannot find all the herbs listed, or try new ones

½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped
1 Tablespoon roasted belachan, optional

Preparing the 2 types of rice:
1. Rinse 1 cup of  rice until the water runs clear.  Then soak rice in 1½ cup water with the blue flowers (in a tea ball or wrapped with cheesecloth) for at least 1 hour.  Remove flowers just before cooking.
2. In a small pot, bring the soaked rice and blue soaking liquid to boil. When it comes to a boil, cover the pot, turn to low simmer, and simmer for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let it sit, still covered for 10 minutes.
3. Rinse the other 1 cup of rice till the water runs clear.  In another small pot, bring the white rice and 1½ cups of water to boil. When it comes to a boil, cover the pot, turn to low simmer, and simmer for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let it sit, still covered for 10 minutes.
4. Fluff the rice and toss together into a large bowl to cool.
Preparing the coconut and seafood, if using:
5. Toast the coconut till golden brown. Add to the big bowl of rice.
6. Soak and drain salt cod and dried shrimp.  Place salt cod in food processor and grind coarsely.  Set aside.  Repeat with dried shrimp.
7. Heat a sauté pan with 1 tablespoon of canola oil and fry the salt cod till fragrant.  Add to the rice.
8. Toast the dried shrimp till fragrant.  Add to the rice.
Preparing the herbs
9. Finely chiffonade all herbs.
Assembly:
10. Toss all ingredients – salt cod, dried shrimp, coconut, herbs – together with the cooled rice.
11. Sprinkle with chopped roasted peanuts and roasted belachan.  Serve at room temperature.

Serves: 8

A tasty pesto with sharp herbal tones to match the robust, nutty taste of buckwheat noodles.

Chef’s tip: When making a pesto, don’t add the Parmesan till after you remove it from the food processor.  that way, the cheese won’t melt with the heat of the motor.  Also, always reserve some pasta water to add back to the pasta to create smooth, silky noodles.  Lastly long pepper is a fragrant, fruity peppercorn with a hint of sweetness and it’s the spice du jour.  Seek it out!

Asian Pesto:
2 cups Thai basil, stems removed
1/2 cup Rau Ram – Vietnamese coriander leaves
3 sprigs green onions, green parts only
1/2 bunch cilantro leaves
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1/2 teaspoon long pepper, freshly ground

1/4 cup Parmesan, grated

3 bunches dried soba, 1 inch diameter bunch

Preparing the Pesto:
1. Place all the herbs into the bowl of a food processor.  Process to chop up the leaves.  With the motor running, slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream.  Process till a smooth paste forms.
2.  Add in pine nuts, salt and pepper, pulse to chop and adjust seasoning if needed.
3. Transfer pesto to a bowl and mix in parmesan.  Drizzle on some olive oil to keep pesto green.
Preparing the soba:
4. Bring a pot of salted water to boil.  Add the soba and cook at a rolling boil until el dente, about 3 minutes, or according to package instructions.  Drain, but save some of the pasta water.  Transfer to a heated large bowl.
5. Toss the pasta with the pesto, adding in some of the pasta water (about 1/4 cup).
6. Serve with grated Parmesan.

Serves: 4

Tossing in as many Vietnamese herbs I can find from the only organic Asian vegetables vendor at the farmers markets in San Francisco Bay Area – Phan Organics Farm of Elk Grove (Civic Center Farmers, SF – Wed and Sun, Berkeley- Tue, Alemany – Sat), this super light noodle salad gives lots of exploding flavors.  It’s a great introduction to the world of Vietnamese herbs.

Chef’s tips: To chiffonade herbs, stack several leaves and roll them tightly.  With a sharp knife, slice the roll finely.  Fluff the sliced herbs to separate them.

Ingredients

Meat:
1 lb ground lean chicken or pork or turkey
2 stalk lemon grass, white part only, very finely sliced
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
Juice from 1 lime
1 Tablespoon rice flour, roasted

6 oz dried  rice vermicelli

Herb:
5 Thai chilies, deseeded and chopped finely
1 cup cilantro, chiffonade
½ cup green onions, sliced thinly
½ cup rau ram, chiffonade
½ cup shiso perilla leaves, chiffonade
½ cup mint leaves, chiffonade
5 kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade
Lime zest from 2 limes

Dressing:
Juice from 1 limes
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup fish sauce
½ teaspoon brown sugar
Cilantro or mint sprigs for garnish

Preparing the meat:
1.    Heat a non stick pan under high heat, add the ground meat, chopped lemongrass, 2 Tablespoons each of fish sauce and lime juice.  Cook 10 minutes until the meat is cooked through, while stirring constantly.  Transfer the meat to a large bowl.  Drain off excess liquids.  Cool.
2.    Dry-fry the rice flour (without any oil) under medium heat till golden brown. Add to the meat mixture.
Preparing the rice noodles:
3.    Bring a pot of salted water to boil.  Add rice noodles.  Bring back to a boil, cover, remove from heat and let noodles sit for 15 minutes in hot water.  Drain.
Preparing the herb and dressing:
4.    Slice and chiffonade the herbs.  Toss all herb ingredients together. Set aside.
5.    Mix dressing ingredients together.
Assembly:
6.    Toss the meat, noodles, herb and dressing together to combine.  Let sit for 10 minutes for the flavors to come together.
7.  Garnish with mint sprigs and cilantro.

Serves: 6

The best duck curry I had was in Bangkok at the Oriental Hotel (of course!).  My friend, Karen and I loved the duck curry at Sala Rim Naam — between our marathon massage sessions, we would take the river taxi across the Chao Praya just to have the duck curry. The river ride adds to the eating experience!

Well, on this side of the Pacific, I take the short cut of using store-bought roasted duck from Chinatown and whip out a quick red curry sauce.  Don’t worry about making your own curry paste – the Thais use the bottled ones, so why don’t we, too.

Chef’s tip: Save the bonier parts of the duck for other uses. The five spice seasoning in the carcass sometimes overpowers the curry. Thai Kitchen’s brand fish sauce and curry paste are pretty good.

Ingredients

½ cup of coconut cream
3 cloves of garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste

2 cups coconut milk
5 pieces of kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade finely
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
1 Tablespoon palm / brown sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt, to taste

1 cup mini Thai eggplant (or 1/2 Japanese eggplant cut into 3/4 inch length)
1 zuchinni, cut into 1 inch pieces

1 roasted duck (from Hong Kong-style delis)

10 lycees or grapes
10 cherry tomatoes
A sprig of basil

1. In a medium saucepot, heat 1/2 cup coconut cream on medium high till it begins to bubble.  Add curry paste and sliced garlic.  Fry till fragrant, red and oil has separated, about 5-7 minutes
2. Add remaining coconut milk and simmer for a few minutes
3. Finely shred kaffir lime leaves, reserves a generous pinch for garnishing
4. Add shredded kaffir lime leaves, fish sauce, sugar, and salt.  Add eggplant and zuchinni.  Simmer uncovered until gravy has thicken.
5. Cut duck into 8 pieces (reserve bones and wings for other use) and add to the curry.  Simmer 3 minutes.
6. Remove from heat.  Add grapes/lycee and tomatoes.
7.  Garnish with kaffir lime leaves and basil.

Serves: 4