Last week, I had the most dissatisfying ribs at Citizen Cake.  Tough, and dry, and  crazy numbing and pungent spice only on the surface.  I should have know not to order any thing else but dessert there….let them eat cake should be Ms. Falkner’s mantra, too.

Ribs should be succulent, yet easily fall off the bone. The meat should be well flavored all the way to the bone.  I came home and made this simple Wuxi ribs, and felt a lot better after that.

Chef’s tip: In Japantown, you can get some paper sponge that you place on top of the sauce to soak up the excess oil.  It’s super handy and saves you the time in chilling the sauce.  This dish also works well in a slow pot.

1 rack pork ribs about 2 pounds, cut into smaller 3 inch riblets, or country-style ribs
5 slices ginger
3 whole scallions
1/4 cup black Zhejiang vinegar (sub: balsamic)
1/4 cup dark soy sauce
1 small stick cinnamon
1 piece whole star anise
1/4 cup + 2 Tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup water

Preparing ribs:
1. Cut the ribs into 4 pieces lengthwise about 3 inches in length, then cut into smaller pieces along each rib.  (Ask butcher to do this).
2. In a large saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil, drop in ribs, and bring to a boil again. Drain and rinse off scum from ribs in cold water.  Drain well.
Cooking the ribs:
3. Place ginger and scallions in a 6-quart dutch oven over high heat.
4. Add prepared ribs.  Add vinegar, soy sauce, cinnamon, star anise, sugar, salt and water. Bring to a boil.
5. Turn flame to medium low and cover.  Cook for 1 hour, then remove ribs.  Alternatively, place the covered dutch oven into an oven 350F for an hour.
6. Remove ribs and keep covered.  Chill sauce to solidify fat and remove fat, or blot the fat with towels.
7. Bring sauce back to a boil and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes or until the sauce is reduced by half.  Add in ribs and heat through.  Serve immediately with steamed rice.

Serves: 4

Hello Rich.  Here’s what Janet and I think is the recreation of our grandma’s recipe for dark soy sauce pork.  I am not exactly sure whether this is a Hokkien or a baba dish.  ”Ah Ma” is Hokkien, but her mother-in-law, our great grandmother “Ah Chor”, was Nyonya.  As I understand it, Ah Ma picked up a lot of her cooking skills from Ah Chor.  We used to go to my dad’s parents place for lunch every Sunday and every Sunday, there will be this dark soy sauce pork.  I vividly remember how she would stuff a special little clay pot, in which she only makes this dish with, with the pork and then braise it under a super low flame.  The pork literally melts in your mouth.  It tastes even better the next day.  We used to even eat this for breakfast, soaking up the sauce with some nice white and fluffy “wonder” bread.

Janet thinks there is some soy sauce added, I think otherwise.  If you’d like it saltier and saucier, just add a splash or two of soy sauce.  Enjoy!

Chef’s tip:
3 key things.  1.  It’s essential to use a fatty cut of pork.  The preferred cut is the “5 flower” cut, the creme de la creme of pork belly meat.   It’s the same cut of meat they make bacon with.  It literally has 5 alternating layers of fat and lean meat.  It would be great to leave the skin on, too.    2. Low heat.  You want to gently cook the fat, not sear it away.  High heat will melt the fat prematurely (i.e., in the pot, not in your mouth)    3. The Malaysian dark caramel sauce aka dark soy sauce (the really thick, black and sweet kind).  The best brand to get is the “Cheong Chan” brand.

2 lbs pork belly meat, skin-on, cut into 1 inch cubes, pat dry
6-8 cloves garlic, whole, skin-on, very lightly smashed
1/2 cup dark (caramel) soy sauce – enough to coat the pork liberally
1/2 teaspoon whole white peppercorns
Soy sauce, optional

1. Place all ingredients in a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, preferably a clay pot.  The meat should fit snugly together.   Liberally coat the pork with the dark soy sauce.
2.  Cover and braised on LOW heat for at least two hours, till desired doneness.  Stir occasionally.  The pork will cook in its own juices and fat.  May add a little water if it gets too dry too soon but try not to.

Serves: 6

Whenever in Shanghai, I must have xiao long bao,  Or whenever it is on any menu!  Din Tai Fung, a Shanghainese, or maybe Taiwanese chain, is able to make a fast food production out of making these delicate soup dumplings.  It is fascinating watching their staff fold these dumplings so swiftly.  One would think they pay their staff based on how fast they can churn out these dumplings.

Chef’s tip: The trick to getting the soup in the middle is by gelling up some aspic with the filling, so when you steam it, the aspic melts to become a soup.

Soup:
1 lb chicken wings tip
3 cups water
2 oz Hunan smoked pork, whole
1 stalk green onions, cut into 3 inch lengths
3 slices ginger
1 Tablespoon Chinese rice wine

Dough:
½ cup high protein/ bread flour
¼ cup all purpose flour
¼ cup + 1 Tablespoon (or more) boiling water
1 teaspoon canola oil

Filling:
1 Tablespoon green onions, white part, very finely minced
1 Tablespoon ginger juice, from 1 Tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon Chinese rice wine
½ Tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
8 oz ground pork

Napa cabbage leaves or parchment paper

Sauce:
¼ cup red wine vinegar + 2 Tablespoon water
5 slices ginger, julienned

Preparing the soup

1.     Place all ingredients in a pot. Bring to boil and gently simmer till stock has reduced into half. Cool.
2.    Remove solids and pass the soup through a sieve into a wet pan.  Chill.
3.     When soup has gelled, scrape it up and break it up with a fork.  Set aside in the refrigerator.
Preparing the dough.
4.     Combine the 2 flour together. Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring until a ball forms.  Cool a little, while still warm, stir in the oil.  Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until soft and smooth.  Wrap in plastic and let rest for 1 hour.
5.     Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a 1 inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into 12 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. You should have about 24 pieces. Cover as you work.
Preparing the filling
6.     Mix all the ingredients together.  Add in the crushed stock.  Gently mix together.
Making the dumpling
7.     Take a dough portion, work into a round ball, flatten it into a 2 1/2 inch round with a rolling pin.  Make a well in the center and place 1 tablespoon of filling, pat it into a mound, leaving a ¾ inch edge around.  Carefully pull up the dough edge with your right thumb and index finger to make the first pleat, while your left thumb centers the filling.  Next, gather the edge of the wrapper with your left index fingers and start to make the subsequent pleats, while your right thumb and index fingers seal the pleats that are formed.  Aim to make 18 pleats per dumpling. Pinch the top together and give it a twist to seal.  Peel off any extra dough at the top.  Placed onto a steamer that is lined with cabbage leaves.
8.     Steam over simmering water for 8 minutes or until the dumplings are translucent.
Preparing the dipping sauce:
9.     While dumplings are steaming, julienne ginger, and mix with red wine vinegar and water.  Serve with dumplings.

Serves: 4

During the first dotcom days, when I was working in a super cool start-up South of Market, I ventured out to Tu Lan on 6th and Market with my fabulously-dressed colleague, Pam, to check out their spring rolls.  The experience was savory, and I don’t mean the food.   We just had to try the spring rolls!  After all, Zagats gave them a 22 or was it 24 then on their food rating.  I don’t think that place even knows Zagat has them rated!  Their food was too greasy for my liking.  The local residents thought we were too out of place for their liking.

So, here is a clean tasting recipe for you to make in the peace and safety of your home.

Chef’s tip: As with any deep frying, controlling the temperature is key to making your deep fried morsel crispy and not greasy.  To get the olden hue on the rice wrapper, dipping in a sugary water gives it a coat of sugar to caramelized in when deep fried.

6 oz shrimp
6 oz ground pork
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 small eggs or 1 large

1 small carrot, grated coarsely
2 cups fresh shiitake, thinly sliced
2 cups wood ear mushroom (from about 3/4 cup dried, reconstituted in water), thinly sliced
2 large shallots, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced, soaked in water, and spun dry
1/2 cup cilantro, chopped
1/2 cup mint, chopped
1 stalk green onions, thinly sliced
2 oz cellophane mung bean noodles, reconstituted in water, cut into 2 inch length

1 lb package 8 inch round Vietnamese rice paper wrappers
3 Tablespoons sugar
8 cups canola oil

1 bunch green leaf or butter lettuce, ribs removed

Nuoc Mam Cham dipping sauce ingredients:
1 red Thai chile, finely minced or 1 teaspoon sambal olek
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 tablespoons sugar
1 lime, juiced to make ¼ cup
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
½ cup water

1. Preparing the sauce: Mix all dipping sauce ingredients together (chile, garlic, sugar, lime juice, fish sauce, vinegar and water).  Set aside.
2. In a food processor, pulse shrimp till coarsely chop, add pork and give it a pulse or two.  Add fish sauce and black pepper, and egg and pulse to combine.
3. Add the rest of the vegetables ingredients and bean noodle and toss to combine.
4. Line a baking sheet with a damp tea towel and have another damp towel ready to cover the rolls. Line a cutting board with a third damp towel.
5. Fill a large sauté pan with 2 inches of water. Add sugar, bring water to a boil, then turn heat to very low. Working with one sheet of rice paper at a time, dip half the disc into the hot water, holding one corner with your fingers or a pair of chopsticks. Let it sit for about 5 seconds. Quickly dip the other half and remove and spread out flat on lined cutting board.
6. Place about 2 Tablespoons of the filling on the bottom third of the rice paper.  Shape the filling into a cylinder, about 3-inches long.
7. Fold the left and right side over the filling. Holding the sides in place, fold the bottom flap up and roll the roll up into a tight cylinder.  Lay the rolls flap side down on the moistened towel and cover with another moist towel. Patch any broken areas with small pieces of soaked, rice paper.  Repeat folding the remaining rolls.
8. Frying the spring rolls:  Heat canola oil till 375F.  Drop several spring rolls into the oil and fry till golden brown, about 5 minutes each.  Immediately drain on a wire rack over a baking sheet.  Bring the oil back up to temperature and continue until all the spring rolls have been fried.
9.  Wrap each spring roll with lettuce and serve with Nuoc Mam Cham dipping sauce.

Serves: 8

Chef’s tip: The most critical ingredient to recreate the street flavor of Hokkien char mee is the pork cracklings and lard.  Without it, it’s just a regular noodle!  Thanks to David Chang, eating pork fat is now cool.  To find pork fat, you will need to go to an Asian or Mexican butcher and ask them specifically for it, and they may be able to slice off some fat for you.  Not a usual item, since they typically throw it out or process the fat into lard.  We need the whole piece of fat, not those that is already in a tub.

Another tip is to use fish sauce.  Some folks swear that if you add some dried “crooked mouth fish” flakes into the dish, you will get the authentic hokkien mee flavor.  Frankly, I don’t exactly know what’s the fish’s name is in English, I just asked for the crooked mouth fish in those dried seafood shops near the Central Market in KL.  So, back in San Francisco, I decided to add a dash of fish sauce.

Lastly, the ubiquitous dark soy sauce is critical.  The Malaysian version is thick and of the consistency of blackstrap molasses.  I looked at the label of my precious dark soy sauce my mom brought me from KL, and lo and behold, it doesn’t have soy in it.  Just caramel, salt and flavoring.  It’s a Malaysian version of molasses, I guess.  Use the Indonesian kicap manis, which is really sweeter than we need, but we can balance it with salt and soy sauce.

Sambal:
10 red Fresno chiles
2 Tablespoons roasted belachan
2 limes, cut into wedges

Sauce:
6 Tablespoons dark soy sauce
3 Tablespoons light soy sauce
1 Tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses
6 cups chicken stock

Pork marinade:
1 lb pork tenderloin, sliced
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil

½ lb pork fat, cut into medium dice

10 cloves of garlic, minced
1 lb medium-sized shrimps, deveined, shelled
1 lb squid, cleaned, cut into ¼ inch rings
1 lb Chinese mustard “choy sum”, cut into 2 inch length

4 lb fresh thick yellow egg noodles (Shanghai style, udon-thickness)

Preparing the ingredients

1.     To prepare the sambal condiment, grind chile with a food processor till fine paste.  Add belachan and mix well.  Set aside with the lime wedges.
2.     Whisk sauce ingredients together in a bowl.   Set aside
3.     Marinade the pork tenderloin with the cornstarch, soy sauce, oyster sauce and sesame oil.   Set aside.
4.     In a wok, render the pork fat till crackling forms.  Remove the cracklings and reserve.  Ladle out and reserve the lard.
5.     Bring a pot of hot water to boil.  Drop noodles into the boiling water, stir to separate the noodles and boil for 2 minutes or until noodles are cooked but not soft.  Remove and drain.
6.     Place the remaining ingredients mise-en-place, and roughly divide each ingredient into 4 portions

Cooking the dish – 2 servings at a time

7.     Heat wok on high heat with 1 Tablespoon lard.   Add 1 teaspoon garlic and a portion of shrimp and squid and saute until shrimp turns pink. Remove from wok and set aside.
8.     Add 1 Tablespoon lard and 1 teaspoon of garlic and 1 portion of the pork.  Sauté 1 minute until pork is browned, then add the sauce mixture and bring to a boil.
9.     Next, add the vegetable and noodles. Toss till noodles are well coated.  Cover to simmer on medium heat for 2 minutes or until all the sauce is absorbed.
10.  Uncover, turn back heat to high, add back the shrimp, squid and pork cracklings and toss to combine.
11.  Drizzle on a tablespoon of lard to finish.  Serve immediately with sambal and lime.

Repeat for each serving.  It is very important that the dish is cooked no more than 2 servings at a time for maximum “wok hay” (wok’s breath)

Serves: 8

Radish cake is eaten during Chinese New Year as a symbol for togetherness.   My friend, Ophelia, made the dish this year again….I wish she lived closer coz I would love to get together and have a slice delicious law bak goh!  She shares the secret from her mom — the oil keeps the batter together.  In addition, she recipe-tested my recipe and this is what she says:  “I added one cup less water than your [original] recipe – I judged it by the consistency … when it looked too watery, I added a little more rice flour.  It was 11pm by the time I was done steaming.  I decided to put the whole pan outside the door, and by the Monday it was nice and firm, ready to be fried for New Year breakfast! “  Looks like the 2010 Washington DC snowmageddon did come in useful afterall!

Anyways, I promised her if she shared the picture, the recipe will be on the blog forever so she needn’t search high and low for her copy each new year!  Here we go! Do note to add more water/ rice flour as needed.

2 lbs Chinese white radish, grated
1 cup water + about 1  1/2 cups water

4 Chinese sausages, finely diced
1/4 cup dried shrimps*, soaked in warm water with 1 tablespoon sherry, drain and chopped roughly
2 + 2 tablespoons oil
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked, or use fresh, finely diced
2 cups rice flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 teaspoon five spice powder

1 tablespoon cilantro, finely chopped
1 tablespoon scallion, finely chopped

1. Peel and grate radish. Place shredded radish in a small pot or saucepan with 1 cup of water. Bring mixture to a boil, than reduce the heat to a low and simmer for 15 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.  Transfer to a large bowl.  Let cool.  Drain radish.  Save cooking liquid.
2. Pour cooking liquid into a measuring cup. Add remaining water to make 2 1/2 cups of liquid.
3. Start a steamer over a wok of boiling water.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in wok. Stir-fry sausage, 1 minute.  Add the shrimp; fry 30 seconds and mushrooms, 1 minute.  Remove from heat. Set aside.
5. To the cooking liquid mixture, whisk in rice flour, sugar, salt, pepper, 5 spice powder and reserved radish and mix until consistency of thick oatmeal.  You may need to add more water or rice flour.  Add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil.
6. Add in sausage & mushroom mixture, scallion and cilantro.  Mix well.
7. Line a 6 inch by 9 inch (or a 9 inch diameter) cake pan with parchment paper and grease with oil liberally. Pour mixture into it. Place on rack in steamer. Steam over briskly boiling water 1 hour.  The cake is somewhat gooey at this stage.
8. When cold, refrigerate overnight to firm up the cake.
9. To serve, slice 1/4 inch thick, 2 inches wide, and 3 inches long. Fry slices in 1 tablespoon canola oil until golden brown. Serve hot.

Serves: 6-8

For the many of you who are googling for a dumpling recipe on Chinese New Year! Have fun!  When I lived in HK and China, I always enjoyed getting together with friends and rolling out the dough and shaping the dumplings during CNY.  Somehow this tradition didn’t make it to South East Asia.

Chef’s tip: You can also use “sui kow” skin instead of making the dough from scratch.

Dough:
1 ¼ cup of all purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
2/3 cup of water

Filling:
1/2 lb of ground pork
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger2/3 -1 cup of cold water
1/2 egg
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or sherry
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons scallions, finely chopped

Dipping sauce:
1/2 cup light soy sauce
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, cut into thin matchsticks
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 cloves finely chopped garlic
2 spring onions (green onions, scallions), chopped

Preparing the dumpling skin
1. Mix salt and flour together.  Make a well in the middle and add water to make a stiff dough.
2. Knead till dough is smooth and elastic.
3. Cover with a damp kitchen cloth and let rest 20 mins.
4. Roll out dough into long rods, cut into small pieces – the size of a cherry
5. Roll each dough into a round ball, flatten with your palm, and then roll out on a floured surface till it forms a small disc about 2 inch in diameter
6. Sprinkle corn flour on each piece so that they would not stick together

Preparing the dipping sauce
7. Whisk together all the dipping sauce ingredients

Preparing the dumplings
8. Finely chop the bokchoy stems. Mix with 2 teaspoons salt and set aside for 5 minutes. Squeeze out the excess moisture.
9. Mix meat, bokchoy, egg, ginger, wine, salt and pepper.  Add water till it becomes a paste.
10. Brush the upper half edges of the dumpling skin rounds with water.  Place a dumpling skin on your palm and mound about 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of each skin.  Fold into a half moon.  Very carefully, insert your left index fingers between the wrapper on the open edge, then using your right index and thumb, create 3 small pleats on the upper skin, then press firmly to seal with the lower skin.   Press lightly to seal.  Make sure seams are well-sealed and place on a tray dusted with cornstarch.
11. Boil water to a rolling boil.  Add dumplings.  When the water has returned to a boil, pour in a cup of cold water.  Allow water to return to boil again, and add another cup of cold water.  When the water returns to boil the third time, the dumpling should be cooked through.

Assembly:
12. Place 4 -6 dumplings in a bowl, serve with dipping sauce

Serves: 6-8

Sweet succulent diver scallops, pan seared and topped with crispy bacon in a bacon-miso vinaigrette.   I had better post this recipe before the new year’s resolutions kick in.  Or perhaps the new resolution is to eat more bacon?  Or this may qualify for a salad diet?

Chef’s tip: To make the nutty flavored clarified butter, heat 4 tablespoons of unsalted sweet butter under medium heat till solids separate.  Spoon off the foam, gently pour out the clarified butter leaving the golden brown solids and more liquid moisture behind, if you hadn’t boiled off the watery part of the butter already.  You can pass the clarified butter through a cheesecloth to remove all solids.  Make a large jar of it and store it in the fridge.  Or you can buy clarified butter in a jar, typically labeled as ghee.
To perfectly sear scallops. make sure the scallops are totally at room temperature, pat it dry and salt just before it hits the pan.   Do not move the scallops until the brown crust forms, which will naturally release the scallop.  The temperature of the pan should be medium to hot.  Lastly, look out for the 1/4 inch thick white opaque layer that forms on both side of the seared scallop face.  The middle should be a little translucent, it will cook in its own heat to perfect tender.

Vinaigrette:
4 strips apple smoked bacon
1 small shallot, finely diced, reserve 1 teaspoon
3 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 Tablespoons mirin
1 Tablespoon sherry
3 Tablespoon orange juice
2 Tablespoons white miso
1 teaspoon finely grated ginger
1 teaspoon sugar

16 large diver scallops
2 Tablespoons clarified butter
Kosher salt
White pepper

3 cups baby spinach

1. In a small saucepan, render the bacon till the bacon is somewhat crispy,  remove bacon.
2.  Add chopped shallots to the bacon fat, and sweat shallots under medium low heat until golden brown.  Add rice wine vinegar, mirin, sherry and orange juice and deglaze the pan.  Mix in miso, ginger and sugar.  Let simmer till reduced till half and liquids is thickened.  Add in reserved shallots, set aside.
3. In a cast iron pan, heat clarified butter on medium heat until smoky.  Thoroughly dry the scallops with paper towel, rub with salt and pepper.  Add to the pan and turn up the heat.  Let scallop cook without turning until a brown crust forms or a whitish opaque forms about 1/4 inch up.  Flip the scallops and cook till the opaque white goes up 1/4 inch again on the other side of the scallop.  Remove scallops and set aside.
4. Remove pan from heat, add spinach and toss to warm but not wilt the spinach.  Add half the vinaigrette when tossing.
5.  Place a serving of spinach on a plate, top with 4 scallops and sprinkle with reserved bacon.  Drizzle in a tablespoon of vinaigrette.

Serves: 4

Yum! Another dumpling to add to your repertoire.  This dim sum uses store-bought siu mai skins.

Chef’s tip: You can use the potsticker skins (which is thicker) or just wonton skins (which is thinner) depending on your preference.  I find that placing the dumplings tightly together holds the shape better.

1 package of siu mai round wrappers, about 30 pieces
2 salted duck egg yolk (optional)

Filling:
4 oz raw shrimp, shelled and deveined, chopped (about 10 size 31/40 shrimp)
8 oz ground pork
1 cup / 5 oz canned water chestnut, chopped finely (about 10 water chestnut)
3 tablespoon scallions, white part, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger (bottled)
3 tablespoon soy sauce
4 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or pale dry sherry
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 tablespoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
A twist of black pepper

1 large thick carrot, cut into thin rounds

Preparing the filling
1.    Mix all the ingredients together.
Assembling
2.    Place the wrapper in your palm. Place 1 teaspoon of filling into wrapper.
3.    Gather up the edges of the wrapper.  Hold the dumpling between your thumb and your fingers, lightly squeezing it to form a cup.  Squeeze with your index finger to form a waist.  Use a spatula to push the filling down.
4.    Flatten the base by tapping on a floured surface. Smooth the top with a knife dipped with water.
5.    Top with a small dot of duck egg,
6.    Placed onto a steamer, setting each dumpling on a slice of carrot rounds.
Steaming
7.    Steam over simmering water for 15 minutes. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 6

This is a very typical Hakka dish.  The “Hakka” people (translated as “guest people”) are migrants from the countrysides of Guangdong and several central Chinese provinces and settled in a small area near the east river in Guangdong.  The Hakka cuisine incorporates a lot of pickled and fermented produce (given refrigeration and fresh produce a luxury when you are movig from place to place).

My mom is visiting from Malaysia and she is sharing her recipe.  Over the course of dinner last night, I found out how much “Hakka” heritage I have.  My maternal grandfather is Hakka from “Kah Hing Zhou” group, and my paternal grandfather, who was adopted into a “Hokkien” aka Fujianese family, was originally also from a Hakka family, too.

Chef’s tip: There are two kinds of pickled mustard.  One is sugar-pickled, the other is salt-pickled.  This recipe calls for the sugar-pickled mustard, which is lighter in color.  Of course, you can only find these in Asian grocery stores.

4 bunches sugar-pickled mui choy (pickled mustard), about 1 lb
1 lb pork belly
3 cloves garlic
2 Tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
2 cups water

1. Soak and rinse pickled mustard under several changes of cold water until no more sandy.
2. Drain and squeeze dry.  Chop into 1/2 inch pieces
3. Cut pork into  thick slices about 1/2 inch thick
4. Smash whole clove garlic lightly, with skin on, leaving garlic somewhat whole
5. Heat oil in a heavy saute pan, add garlic and pork and saute for 3 minutes until fragrant, then add chopped mustard.  Stir together, cook for 5 minutes.  Add dark soy sauce.
6. Add water, cover, bring to boil, then simmer under low heat for 30 minutes. (or if you use a crock pot, simmer for 2 hours).

This is the last of the series on savory Zongzi.  By now, you should be getting the folding instructions and methods down.  Here is just a list of the regional variations you can do.

Chef’s tip: For the full detailed instructions on how to fold the dumpling and boiling the dumplings, please refer to the Cantonese Joong recipe for the leaf template and step by step instructions.

Taiwanese-style
Pork belly
Salted duck egg yolk
Shiitake
Chestnut
Scallions
Fried shallots
Dried shrimp
Peanuts
Five spice powder

Sichuan-style
Pork belly
Pumpkin slices
Sichuan peppercorn
White pepper

Fujian-style
Pork belly / chicken
Chinese sausage
Salted duck egg yolk
Shiitake
Dried shrimp
Chestnut
Five spice powder

Shanghainese-style
Pork belly
Soy sauce
Dark soy sauce
Rice wine
Cinnamon stick
Star anise
Five-spice powder

Continuing the series on different types of Chinese rice dumplings, this Nyonya version features the intricate flavor depths of typical Nyonya cuisine with a hint of sweet, salty and spicy.

Chef’s tip: For the full detailed instructions on how to fold the dumpling and boiling the dumplings, please refer to the Cantonese Joong recipe for the leaf template and step by step instructions.

Nyonya “Chang”

Ingredients

3 cups glutinous sweet rice, soaked, drained
1 ¼ cup coconut milk, mix with 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Spice paste:
4 Tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black peppercorn
12 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoon galangal, minced
2 tablespoon canola oil

12 pieces fresh shiitake, stems removed, diced into small cubes
12 oz ground pork
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup of candied wintermelon (optional)
½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped

4 pandan leaves, cut into 1 inch length
72 pieces bamboo leaves
24 pieces yard-long kitchen twine

Preparing the ingredients the night before
1.    Wash rice.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the top of the rice, and soak overnight.
2.    Soak bamboo leaves in hot water overnight.  Next morning, scrub with brush and rinse several times to remove dirt.  Leave leaves in water till ready to use.
Preparing the rice
3.    Drain rice, place on a metal/glass plate and steam 20 minutes.
4.    Drizzle coconut milk over the rice, and steam another 10 minutes.
Preparing the filling
5.    Saute spice paste together till fragrant, 3 minutes.  Add mushroom and pork, salt and sugar and cook 3 minutes.
6.    Add winter melon, and cook another 30 seconds.  Remove from heat, stir in chopped peanuts.
Wrapping the dumpling (see detailed instructions section)
7.    Prepare bamboo cone.
8.    Place ½ tablespoon rice into the cone.  Make a slight well, then place 2 tablespoons of pork mix and top with 1 ½ tablespoons of rice.  Pack all ingredients tightly as you add them.  Flatten the top with a clean wet spoon.
9.    Cover the rice with 2 pieces of pandan squares
10.    Complete wrapping and secure leaves with kitchen twine.
Cooking
11.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Add 1 tablespoon salt.  Gently place the dumplings in and boil for 30-60 minutes over medium slow fire. Add water constantly to ensure the dumplings are always submerged in water.
12.    When cooked, remove the dumplings and place in a colander to dry.
13.    Serve with sugar or chili sauce on the side, if you’d like.

Makes 24 pieces

Dragon Boat Festival / Tuen Ng Jit / Duan Wu Jie is coming up — the 5th day of the 5th month of the Lunar Calendar translating to May 28th, 2009 this year.  “Zongzi” is the pyramid shaped rice dumplings wrapped with bamboo leaves – frequently called “Chinese tamales” this side of the Pacific.  Some stories have it that the dragon boat crew threw the dumplings into the river to distract/ feed the monsters so that they can get on with the rowing.

It takes a lot of practice to get the dumplings to the right shape and compactness, hence I am posting these recipes early so that you will have time to practice in the run up to the festival.  I am also going to post under separate posts the different regional variation of the dumplings….starting with the Cantonese version.

Chef’s tip: Using 3 pieces of leaves to wrap the dumplings make it a little easier.  Attached is the zongzi leaf template you can use, complete with detailed step by step instructions on positioning the leaves and the origami moves you need.

Cantonese “Joong”

Ingredients

3 cups glutinous sweet rice, soaked, drained, add 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoon oil
¾ cup peeled, mung beans, soaked, drained, add ½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon oil

12 oz pork belly/ pork butt, diced ½ inch cubes
Seasoning:
1 Tablespoon Chinese five spice powder
1 Tablespoon Chinese rice wine
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 Tablespoon canola oil

12 pieces fresh shiitake, stems removed, sliced finely
Seasoning:
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon white pepper

12 salted duck egg yolks, cut into 2
24 pieces of baby chestnut, or 12 large

72 pieces bamboo leaves
24 pieces yard-long kitchen twine

Preparing the ingredients the night before
1.    Wash rice.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the top of the rice, and soak overnight.
2.    Pick over mung beans, rinse, cover with 2 inches of water over the top & soak overnight.
3.    Soak bamboo leaves in hot water overnight.  Next morning, scrub with brush and rinse several times to remove dirt.  Leave leaves in water till ready to use.
Preparing the filling
4.    Dice pork, mix with seasoning.  Set aside.
5.    Sliced mushrooms, mix with seasoning. Set aside.
Prepare the ingredients mise en place
6.    Drain rice, add salt and oil.  Set aside.*
7.    Drain mung beans, add salt and oil.  Set aside.*
8.    Separate yolks and cut into two.  Set aside.
9.    Cut large chestnuts into two.  Set aside.
Wrapping the dumpling (see Zongzi Leaf Template or detailed instructions section below)
10.    Prepare bamboo cone.
11.    Place ½ tablespoon rice into the cone.  Make a slight well, then place 1 heaping tablespoon of pork, ½ tablespoon mushroom, ½ egg yolk, and half a chestnut.  Followed by 1 tablespoon mungbean and 1 tablespoon of rice.  Pack all ingredients tightly as you add them.  Flatten the top with a clean wet spoon.
12.    Complete wrapping and secure leaves with kitchen twine.
Cooking
13.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Add 1 tablespoon salt.  Gently place the dumplings in and boil for 1 1/2 – 2 hours over medium slow fire. Add water constantly to ensure the dumplings are always submerged in water.
14.    When cooked, remove the dumplings and hang to dry.
15.    Serve with sugar or chili sauce on the side, if you’d like.

Makes 24 pieces
* To speed cooking, steam rice for 20 minutes, drizzle with 1 ¼ cup of chicken stock, steam another 10 minutes.  Also steam mungbeans for 15 minutes.  Boil dumplings for 30-60 minutes.

Detailed Dumpling wrapping – Download the zongzi leaf template for the leaf stencil. The first and second page are set up to print on both sides.

A.    Take two bamboo leaves, overlap offsetting each other by ½ inch along the length of the leave. The stems to the left, and the tips to the right, with the 2nd leave closest to you.  (A1 reads above A2)

B.    At a point 1 inch from the top edge and 1 inch off the middle cross-section (Point B) fold leaves into a conical shape – there should be no opening at the tip of the cone.

C.    The tips should be parallel to the stems, and are lower than the stems. (C1 aligns with C2, with C2 on the upper fold)

Fill the cone, packing tightly as you fill.  Flatten the top with a clean wet spoon.

D.    Take a third piece of leave, insert the tip end in between the back fold on the right.  (D1 aligns with D2), and cup the dumpling, with ½ inch offset along the edge (both Ds are visible at the base)

E.    With the triangle facing you, fold the third leave at the base of your palm towards the filling (E)

F.    Next, fold the 3 pieces of tips on the right towards the filling (F)

G.    Then, fold the stems on the left side towards the filling (G)

H.    Lastly, fold down the remaining leaves towards you. (H) and wrap around the pyramid.

I.    Quickly loop a piece of kitchen twine around the dumpling (along the spine of the leaves) to secure leaves in place.  Wind twine around dumpling tightly.  If necessary add, a second piece of string along a different axis.

NOTE:
o    For savory dumplings, pack, wrap and tie tightly so that the filling will not separate from the rice.
o    For sweet dumplings, pack loosely, wrap and tie loosely so that the rice will have space to expand and it will be soft.
o    The longer you boil the dumpling, the softer it will become.  Boil a minimum of 30 minutes if you pre-steam some of the ingredients, otherwise, 1 ½ hours.  A perfect boil is about 2 ½ hours.

This is my nephew, Christian’s, favorite bao!  We simply call it “Dai Bao” (translated “Big Bun”) coz it’s like ye big.  The size of a Big Mac, really. These days, it’s hard to find the Dai Bao. They are becoming almost extinct in this modern world of dainty dim sums. I call it the Dim Sum Evolution Theory! When my mom visits her grandchildren in Hong Kong, she brings a few of these Dai Baos with her from PJ.  The bao is filled with chicken, shiitake mushrooms, lap cheung sausages and my favorite part – half a hard boiled egg.

Chef’s tip: Marinating the chicken with cornstarch gives it a velvety texture. The best way to determine if the chicken is cooked through is by using a thermometer.

Ingredients:

1 portion of Basic Yeast Dough – see below

Marinade:
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 Tablespoons Chinese rice wine
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper, ground
1 Tablespoon cornstarch

1 1/2 lb chicken thighs, skinless, trimmed, vut into 1/2 inch strips
3 Tablespoons cilantro stems
2 pairs Chinese sausage, sliced
8 pieces shiitake, cut into half
4 hard boiled eggs, halved

8 pieces of 4 x 4 wax paper.

Prepare the dough
1. Make 1 recipe of Basic Yeast Dough for Steamed Buns. Make sure you cover the finished dough with a damp tea cloth.
Preparing the filling
2. Mix all the marinade ingredients (oyster sauce, soy, sesame oil, wine, salt, pepper, sugar, cornstarch and water) together in a bowl. Add chicken and marinate 2 hours. Toss in the chopped cilantro stems.
Assembling
3. Take a dough portion, work into a round ball about 2 inch in diameter. Flatten it into a 8-inch round with a rolling pin about ¼ inch thick. Make sure the edges are half as thin as the center.
5. Place 2 heaping Tablespoons of chicken into dough. Add 1/8th of the sausage, mushrooms and the half egg. Pull the sides to meet at the center, making a ruffled fold as you work. Pinch the top together and give it a twist to seal. Pinch off any extra dough at the top. Place onto a piece of waxed paper.
6. Place buns in steamer about 2 inches apart and cover with a damp cloth. Allow buns to rise in a draft-free place for about 20 minutes.
Steaming
7. Place steamer over the simmering water for 25minutes, or until bun is well risen or when a thermometer inserted into the bun reads 165F. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 8 buns

Basic Yeast Dough Recipe

This is a recipe for the dough of the fluffy white skins of the char siu bao and the shanghai cabbage buns. It’s truly versatile — you can use the same dough and fill it with sweetened mashed red beans or lotus seeds for a dessert treat. Or just steam it by itself to turn it into “man tou” essentially steamed white bread that is used to soak up the wonderful sauce of Sichuanese or Hunanese dishes. If you shape the bun into a flat disc, it becomes the base for peking duck.

The dough can be allowed to rise slowly, covered, in the refrigerator for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before using. If you are not using the dough straight away, punch it down and wrap tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.

3 Tablespoons sugar
½ Tablespoons active dry yeast
½ cup + 2 Tablespoons hot water
½ cup + 2 Tablespoons cold water

3 cups unbleached “00” or high protein bread flour plus additional for kneading
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons canola oil

2 teaspoons baking powder, sifted

Part 1: Making and proofing the dough.
1. Proofing the yeast: Dissolve sugar in hot water. Add cold water to make a warm solution (105 – 115°F). Dissolve the yeast in the sugar solution. Stir lightly, and let stand in a warm place until mixture develops a creamy foam, about 7 minutes. (If mixture doesn’t foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)
2. Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the middle, and add yeast mixture and oil and stir to incorporate the flour until dough holds together and just come away from side of bowl. Add a little more water if needed.
3. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead. Lightly flour your hands if necessary. Knead (by using the heels of your hands and your body weight to push away from you, pull it back and fold in the sides of the dough towards the center. Turn the dough right angle every few kneads) until dough is smooth, soft, and elastic, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball.
4. Lightly oil a large bowl, put the dough into the bowl and turn the dough so that all sides are coated. Cover the bowl tightly with a plastic wrap/damp tea cloth and let dough rise in a warm (75-80°F), draft-free place until doubled in bulk, 1-3 hours. The dough is ready when it does not spring back when poked with a finger.

Part 2: Finishing the dough – Using the dough
1. Uncover the dough, punch it down and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.
2. Flatten it and make a well in the center. Sprinkle baking powder in the well, gather up the sides and fold to the center to incorporate the baking powder. Knead lightly for a few minutes till it becomes a ball again.
3. Divide the dough into two cylinders. Cut each into 4. Make 8 2-inch ball portions. Cover dough with a damp tea cloth as you work.
4. Proceed with dumpling recipes

Note: This basic dough can be used for char siu bau steamed pork bun recipes, plain steamed man tou recipes, shanghai cabbage steamed buns, chicken steamed bun recipes.

This Northern Thai dish originates from Laos and is sometimes spelt “larb”.  Even tho’ it is served at room temperature, the heat from the Thai red chili will make you break a sweat.  This spicy sharpness together with the acid from the lime juice, the umami of the fish sauce, the essential oils from the mint and zest are balanced with the smokiness of the rice flour to create a flavor explosion moment.  Laab is typically served with sticky rice but I like to serve the laab on endives to make a tasty appetizer.  Using no oil in the cooking, this is as low fat as Asian foods go!

Chef’s tip: If you have the patience, pinch off the meat a little at a time as you add to the pot, instead of dunking the whole pound in all at once.  This will ensure every bit of meat surface gets browned.

Ingredients

Meat:
1 lb ground lean chicken or pork or turkey
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
2 Tablespoons lime juice

1 Tablespoon roasted rice powder (from 3 tablespoon glutinous rice)

Herb:
1 stalk lemon grass, white part only, very finely sliced
3 kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade
4 Thai chilies, deseeded and chopped finely
3 Tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 sprig green onions, sliced
3 Tablespoons mint leaves, chopped

Dressing:
Juice from 1 lime
1 Tablespoon lime zest
1 Tablespoon fish sauce
½ teaspoon brown sugar

Lettuce cups:
1 head of iceberg lettuce or 2 endives
Cilantro or mint sprigs for garnish

Preparing the meat:
1.    Heat a non stick pan under high heat, add the ground meat, 2 Tablespoons each of fish sauce and lime juice.  Cook 10 minutes until the meat is cooked through, while stirring constantly.  Transfer the meat to a large bowl.  Drain off excess liquids.
Preparing the toasted rice:
2.    Dry-fry the glutinous rice (without any oil) under medium heat till golden brown.
3.    Remove, let cool slightly and grind into a powder with a spice mill, or a mortar and pestle.  Set aside.
Preparing the herb and dressing:
4.    Slice lemongrass, kaffir, and chilies.   Zest lime.  Mince green onions, cilantro and mint.  Set aside.
5.    Mix dressing ingredients together.
Preparing the lettuce cups
6.    Remove the iceberg lettuce leaves one at a time and trim into little cups.  If using endives, leave leaves whole.  You may want to use the heart of the lettuce.
Assembly:
7.    Pour the rice powder, herb mixture and dressing into the cooked meat and toss to combine.  Let sit for 10 minutes for the flavor to come together.
8.    Scoop 2 tablespoons of the chicken into the lettuce cups and garnish with a sprig of cilantro or mint.

Serves: 6

Lotus Leaf Sticky Rice (at the dim sum table, call it “hor yip lor mai kai”) blends the Cantonese flavor trinity of Chinese lap cheung sausages, dried shrimp and Shiitake mushrooms.  The lotus leaf imparts a wonderful aroma to the rice.  If you can get fresh lotus leafs the better, otherwise, head to Chinatown and you can get a stack of two dozen dried leaves for like 99 cents.

The same rice filling makes a wonderful thanksgiving turkey stuffing….skip the lotus leaves, of course.

Chef’s tip: Cut off the stem end of the leaves to make the leaves more pliable.  Also, if use a Thai Sticky Rice bamboo steamer to produce the best sticky rice texture.

Ingredients:

6 dried lotus Leaves or six 1 cup-ramekins or small heat-proof bowls

1 1/2 cups sweet glutinous rice, soaked 6 hours
1 Tablespoons peanut oil
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups chicken stock

2 pieces boneless chicken thigh,trimmed, skinless, cut into ½ inch slices
1 Tablespoon peanut oil
½ Tablespoon oyster sauce
½ Tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon dried shrimp, soaked and drained
1 Chinese sausage, thinly sliced
6 pieces of fresh Shiitake mushroom, sliced
6 slices of char siu ( 4 oz), thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/4 cup of water
1 sprig green onions, chopped

Preparing the lotus leaves (if using, otherwise, slightly oil 6 ramekins).
1.    Snip off the hard stalks ends of the lotus leaf.  Soak the lotus leaves in hot water until softened.  Cut into 2 if they are large.
Preparing the rice.
2.    Wash the rice and cover with water.  Set aside at least 6 hours to overnight.
3.    Prepare a large pot of water with steamer.  Line steamer with cheesecloth.  Drain rice.  Place rice evenly on the cheesecloth.
4.    Place rice in a steamer over boiling water and steam for 20 minutes.  Transfer rice to a bowl.
5.    Mix the oil, sugar, and stock in a small pot and bring to a boil.  Pour the hot stock into the cooked rice mixture and stir.  Cover with plastic wrap and leave to stand 10-15 minutes.
Preparing the filling
6.    Marinate the chicken with oyster sauce, soy sauce, cornstarch, sugar and sesame oil.
7.    In the wok, heat the oil, fry the dried shrimp and Chinese sausage.  Set to the side of the wok.  Add garlic and saute for half a minute until it becomes light golden then add chicken.  Brown the chicken, about 2 minutes.  (need not be cooked through).
8.   Add mushroom, char siu and toss back the dried shrimp and sausage.
9.    Add ½ cup of water and add to the wok.  Stir until the sauce is thick and glazes the meat.  Remove from heat and toss in the green onions.
Assembling
10.    When rice is done, divide into 12 portions.  Divide the filling into 6 portions.
11.    Place lotus leave flat on a work surface.  Patch any holes with additional leave pieces.
12.    Place 1 portion of rice onto the center of the leave. Make a well in the center.    Place a portion of the filling.  Drizzle in any sauce from the chicken.  Top with another portion of rice.  Pack it tightly to make a small rectangular mass about 3 inch X 2 inch.
13.    Wrap one side of the leaves over the filling, then take the opposite side and overlap like you are folding a business letter into 3.  Then take the left third and fold it under the rice middle.  Repeat with the opposite side.  Place the rice bundle on its folded ends on a steamer.
Steaming
14.    Place lotus parcels in steamer basket over simmering water and steam for 30 minutes. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 6

This picture was taken eons ago on my first gen digital camera…before I got my VR lens and my D70.  But the memory of that meal at Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi is still as vivid as ever.  You climb this steep stairs, or more aptly called, a ladder, to get to the second floor of this nondescript shop lot in the old town of Hanoi.  As immediately as you sit down, a charcoal stove appears, together with a variety of Asian herbs and a simmering pan of bright orange tumeric oil.  This was the most simple and memorable meal I had in Hanoi.  I was heady with the smell of turmeric, dill, rau ram and all the wonderful Vietnamese herbs and the sweet smell of fried fresh fish.  Or was it the carbon monoxide from the numerous charcoal stoves in the room that was making me giddy?  I have tried to reproduce the recipe based on that memorable meal sans charcoal.

Chef’s tip: Make sure you have everything mise-en-place before you start cooking. The cooking itself literally takes minutes.  Traditionally, the freshwater snakehead fish is used.  Catfish or tilapia is a good substitute.  I like it with the more fatty salmon.

And here’s an updated picture 10 years later.

Marinade:
3 inches of galangal – Thai ginger
2 Tablespoons water
2 Tablespoon fish sauce
3 Tablespoon tumeric powder
1 Tablespoon rice wine
1 Tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 Tablespoon grapeseed/ safflower oil

1 ½ lb fresh salmon (tilapia or catfish works well, too)

1 (4 oz) package of thin rice vermicelli, cooked and drained

8 approx. 2”X4” pieces of butter/green lettuce leaf, ribs removed
12 sprigs mint, chiffonade
1 bulb of fennel, thinly sliced
1 red onion, thinly sliced
½ bunch cilantro, tear into smaller sprigs
½ bunch of green onions, julienned, separate white from green
1 cup Rau Ram – polygonum (Vietnamese Mint), chiffonade
1 cup Fresh basil, chiffonade

1 lb dill, stemmed, cut into 3 inch strip
1 ½ cups of grapeseed/ safflower oil

Nuac Mam:
1 red chile, diced finely / 1 tablespoon Sri Racha sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 Tablespoons sugar
Juice of 1 lime
2 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
4 Tablespoons water
2 Tablespoons fish sauce

½ cup roasted peanuts
2 limes, cut into wedges

Preparing the Fish:
1.    Grate galangal and mix with 2 tablespoons warm water, squeeze juice and discard solids.
2.    Whisk together marinade ingredients with galangal juice
3.    Cut salmon into 1 inch cubes and marinate fish for at least a half hour.
Preparing the vegetables and rice vermicelli:
4.    Bring a pot of water to boil.  Drop rice vermicelli in, bring to boil again. Cover for 15 minutes.  Drain and fluff.  Place in the middle of a large platter.
5.    Wash and clean all vegetables, spin to dry.
6.    Sliced fennel and onion finely. Place onions in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes.  Drain.
7.    Chiffonade herbs except dill. Set herbs and vegetables around the rice noodles on the platter.
Cooking the fish:
8.    Heat a cast iron pan or a wok on high heat
9.    Add oil and cook salmon till golden brown.
10.    Add the dill, cook for 1 minute.
11.    Toss in white part green onions.
12.    Ladle salmon over the rice noodles, sprinkle with ground peanuts.
Just before serving, toss together to mix in herbs and vegetables.
Preparing the nuoc mam dipping sauce:
13. Blend together all nuoc mam ingredients.
To serve:
14.    Serve with nuoc mam, cut lime and freshly cracked black pepper on the side.

Serves: 6

In this classic dim sum dish, the chives are mixed with shrimp and stuffed in a a dumpling. The crystal dumpling skin is made from a combination of wheat starch and tapioca starch which gives the dumplings a translucent look, and a chewy and “elastic” bite.

Chef’s tip: Make sure that you use *boiling* water when making the dough as the starch needs to be cooked to turn it into a gooey mixture that forms the binding for the dough.

Crystal Dough:
2¼ cups wheat starch
3 Tablespoons tapioca starch
1½ cups boiling water
1½ Tablespoons vegetable shortening
Filling:
12 oz raw shrimp, shelled and deveined (size 31/40 shrimp)
4 oz Chinese chives, blanched, minced to make 1 cup
¼ cup / 2 oz canned bamboo shoots, rinsed, pat dry and minced
4 Tablespoons cilantro, minced
Seasoning:
1 Tablespoons soy sauce
2 Tablespoons Chinese rice wine or pale dry sherry
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

Some tapioca starch
Napa or savoy cabbage leaves, whole leaves, blanched
Dipping sauce:
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons water
10 slices ginger, thinly julienned

Preparing the dough.
1.    Combine the wheat starch and the tapioca starch. Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water (must be boiling!), stirring until a ball forms.
2.    Cool a little, while still warm, stir in the shortening, a little at a time.  Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until soft and smooth.
3.    Divide the dough into 4 balls. Cover dough with a damp tea cloth for 15 minutes.
Preparing the filling
4.    Chop/mince the shrimp with a cleaver on a cutting board until it becomes a rough paste.  Place in a large bowl.
5.    Cut the Chinese chives into 4 inch pieces, blanched in a pot of hot water (20 seconds).  Remove, and squeeze dry between two plates.  Chop the blanched chives finely.  Finely chop the bamboo shoots and cilantro.  Add to the shrimp.
6.    Mix all the seasoning ingredients together.  Pour into the shrimp and chives mixture and mix well.
Assembling the dumplings
7.    Take a dough portion, work into a round ball, flatten into a disc and using a rolling pin, roll out dough (switching to a right angle direction to the previous direction every few times) until the dough is uniformly 1/8 inch thick.  Use a round 3½ inch cookie cutter and stamp out round pastry skins.  You should have about 40 skins. Cover dough with a damp tea cloth as you work.
8.    Brush the edges of the pastry with a little water.  Place the pastry skin in your palm. Place 1 teaspoon of filling into dough, being careful to avoid the edges. Fold into half to make a crescent moon.  Using your thumb, form little pleats on the top edge of the crescent, and press the two layers together to seal. Make sure seams are well-sealed and place on a tray dusted with tapioca starch.
9.    Placed onto a steamer that is lined with blanched cabbage leaves or perforated parchment
10.    Steam over simmering water for 6-8 minutes or until the dumplings are translucent. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.
Preparing the dipping sauce:
11.    Julienne ginger, and mix with red wine vinegar and water.  Serve with the dumplings.

Serves: 40 pieces

Chef’s tip: If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, get the Wycen lap cheung (Washington/Stockton or Clement/7th) . They make their sausages locally and offer extra lean 100% chicken sausages.

Filling:
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
2 heads iceberg lettuce

1 lb boneless skinless chicken thigh, trimmed of fat and minced
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 Tablespoon oyster sauce
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon sesame oil
½ Tablespoon canola oil

2 Tablespoons canola oil
1 Chinese wax sausage, diced small, ½ inch cubes
1 Tablespoon dried shrimps, soaked, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tablespoon ginger, grated
2 Tablespoon Shaoxing wine
¼ cup water
10 fresh shiitake mushrooms, diced small, ¼ inch cubes
3 oz waterchestnuts, drained and diced finely,1/8 inch cubes
2 Tablespoons green onions, green and white parts, chopped
2 Tablespoons cilantro, chopped
1 Tablespoon sesame oil

¼ cup hoisin sauce
Cilantro sprigs

Preparing the lettuce
1.    Toast the pine nuts, set aside.
2.    Using a paring knife, cut around the stem core of the lettuce, then carefully separate the lettuce leaves.  Reserve outer leaves for other use.  Use a knife or scissors to cut the inner leaves into rough 4 inch rounds.  Pat leaves dry.  Make 30 cups. Chill.
Preparing the filling
3.    In a food processor, pulse the chicken until it is chopped roughly (or use a cleaver and cutting board to mince).  Marinate the chicken with cornstarch, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and oil.
4.    In the wok, heat ½ Tablespoon oil, fry the Chinese sausage until it has rendered its fat.  Push to the side of the wok or if you are not using a wok, remove to a prep plate. Next, add another ½ Tablespoon oil, fry the dried shrimp with the remaining garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
5.    Then add the chicken, drizzle the Shaoxing wine around the sides of the wok and stir-fry till it becomes brown and caramelized.  Push chicken to the side of the wok or remove from the pan.
6.    Next, add a little oil if needed, the chopped shiitake, sauté until mushroom is tender, then add toss back the chicken and sausage.
7.    Add ¼ cup of water to the wok.  Stir until the sauce is thick and glazes the meat.
8.    Add the waterchestnut.  Remove from heat, stir in the chopped green onions and cilantro.  Finish with the sesame oil.
Assembling
9.    Brush each lettuce cup with hoisin sauce.
10.    Spoon a heaping Tablespoon of the chicken mixture into the prepared lettuce leaves and sprinkle with pine nuts. Garnish with a sprig of cilantro.

Serves: 30 cups

Chinese restaurants in America really give the fried rice a bad rep.  It really should be in the same class as paella, risotto, and all the other wonderful one-dish rice meals.

Chef’s tip: Heating a pan before adding oil, will make food stick less to a pan.

Ingredients

Meat:
6 oz small shrimp, shelled, peeled, deveined
3 tablespoons dried shrimp, soaked for 10 minutes
2 Chinese sausage, diced small
4 oz Chinese BBQ, char siu pork, diced small

Vegetables:
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion, sliced thinly

4 Tablespoons canola oil
3 cups cooked jasmine rice, forked to break up lumps
3 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 cup frozen peas

2 red jalapenos red bell pepper, deseeded, diced small
1 sprig green onions, diced

Directions:
1.  Heat a wok on high heat
2.  Add Chinese sausage and sauté for 1 minute till fragrant.  Push to the side of the wok.
3.  Add 1 tablespoon oil, sauté 1 teaspoon garlic with the dried shrimp for 30 seconds, add fresh shrimp and sauté until shrimp turns bright red.  Toss in BBQ pork.  Push to the side of the wok.
4.  Add 2 tablespoons oil, add garlic and onions.  Fry till fragrant and vegetables are tender – about 1 minute.  Toss in sausage, shrimp and pork to mix.
5.  Add cooked rice.  Drizzle in soy sauce.  Stir fry for another two minutes.
6.  Add the peas and toss to mix.
7. Make a well in the middle, add ½ tablespoon oil.  Break in the eggs, let it cook like a sunny side up till firm but still slightly runny, then scramble the eggs into the rice mixture.
8.   Toss in the red jalapeno and green onions.  Serve immediately.

Serves: 6

Thailand’s breakfast for champions.

A comfort food, the soup makes a wonderful meal. Besides being a popular breakfast item in Thailand (hold the bacon, give me pork balls!), it is also their version of chicken soup for the days when one is under the weather.

Chef’s tip: Keep any excess garlic oil in the fridge.

Ingredients:

Garlic oil:
¼ cup canola oil
6 cloves garlic, finely minced
Meatballs:
½ lb ground pork
½ teaspoon salt
A pinch of white pepper
Soup:
6 cups chicken broth
3-4 Tablespoons fish sauce
1½ Tablespoons preserved radish, soaked, chopped
2 cups lightly packed cooked jasmine rice

¼ cup green onions, white parts only, finely chopped
¼ cup, cilantro, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground white pepper

Preparing the garlic oil
1.    In a small pot, heat the oil and garlic and fry till the garlic is light golden brown.  Remove from heat and it will continue to cook to golden brown. Set aside.
Preparing the meatballs
2.    Mix together the meatball ingredients (pork, salt and pepper)
Preparing the soup
3.    In a large pot, bring soup ingredients (chicken stock, fish sauce, radish and rice) to boil
4.    Grab a small handful of the pork mixture and gently squeeze out a small amount of the meat between your index finger and thumb.  Using a spoon, scoop out the meatball and drop into the soup.  When all the meat is done, boil for another 5 minutes.  Remove from heat.
5.    Scatter the green onions and cilantro.  Add all the garlic oil and white pepper.

Serves: 4

They call it Lion’s Head because the meatballs are ye big with manes of soft, tender napa cabbage…looking like a lion. Seriously, in Shanghai, the meatballs are the size of a tennis ball – let’s call that a quarter pounder meatball.

Chef’s tip: Slowly braise or steam to get a tender, melt-in-your-mouth meatballs. If you have a small claypot, braise the meatballs in the claypot and serve directly from it.

Meatballs:
1 lb ground pork
1 egg white
¼ cup green onions, white parts only, finely chopped
¼ cup waterchestnuts, drained and diced finely,1/8 inch cubes
1 Tablespoons ginger, grated
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tablespoons light soy sauce
½ teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon Shaoxing wine
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

½ cup cornstarch for dusting meatballs
½ cup canola oil

Sauce:
2 cloves garlic, lightly smashed, leaving it still whole
5 slices ginger
2 cups chicken stock
1 Tablespoon Shaoxing wine
1 Tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
½ Tablespoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 small napa cabbage leaves, about 8 pieces, cut into 3X1 inch pieces
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch + 2 Tablespoons water (optional)

Preparing the meatballs
1.    Mix together the meatball ingredients (pork, egg white, chopped green onions, waterchestnuts, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, shaoxing wine, cornstarch, salt and pepper.) Place the mixture into the freezer and chill 5 minutes.
2.    Form meatballs by hand into 2-inch rounds. Dust lightly with cornstarch.  Set on a baking tray. You should have about 8 meatballs. (For a classic serving, the meatballs should be the size of a tennis ball, in that case, you should get 4 meatballs).
3.    Heat about ½ inch of canola oil in a large sauté pan. Brown the meatballs over medium-high heat, in batches, until golden brown on all sides.  Set aside.
Preparing the sauce
4.    Using the same pan, remove all but 2 tablespoons oil.  Heat on high, add ginger and garlic. Fry for 10 seconds.
5.    Add chicken stock and bring to a boil, then add remaining sauce ingredients (Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, sugar and salt). Pour the chicken stock mixture over the meatballs.
6.    Gently transfer the meatballs into the pan. Add more stock if needed to cover the meatballs entirely.  Cover and simmer (or steamed or baked 400°F) for 20 minutes.
7.    Scatter the cabbage on top and continue simmering for another 20 minutes.  The sauce should be reduced to half.
8.    If you prefer a thicker sauce, transfer the sauce into a small sauce pan and reduce the sauce further to a nappe consistency, or add the cornstarch and water slurry to thicken.
9.    Finish with sesame oil.

Serves: 4

The char siu bao is a dimsum staple. Sweet, juicy bits of Chinese bbq pork oozing out of the soft, sweet bun.

If you don’t have steamer baskets, use a wok or a big pot with a vegetable steamer (or an inverted bowl), but place the buns on a heat proof plate to steam, so to avoid being splashed by the water beneath. If you live near a Chinatown, you can easily get a steamer rack for less than a dollar (you can find them in the “aisle” outside the shop, by the sidewalk — what marketers would call term “the impulse buy placement”. Go figure.)

Chef’s tip: The secret to creating that char siu bao taste is to use dried onions (McCormicks). Also, when you are proofing the yeast, make sure it forms a foamy head, otherwise, discard and astart over. Like good beer, it should be “alive”.

Ingredients:

1 portion of Basic Yeast Dough

Sauce:
2 Tablespoons oyster sauce
2 Tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
2 Tablespoons sesame oil
3 Tablespoons Chinese rice wine / sherry
6 Tablespoons sugar
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
6 Tablespoons water

1 lb barbeque pork (char siu), diced small ¼ inch cubes
½ cup dried onion flakes soaked in ¼ cup of water
2 Tablespoons sesame seeds, roasted

20 pieces of 2 x 2 wax paper.

Prepare the dough
1. Make 1 recipe of Basic Yeast Dough for Steamed Buns. Make sure you cover the finished dough with a damp tea cloth.
Preparing the filling
2. Mix all the sauce ingredients (oyster sauce, hoisin, soy, sesame oil, wine, sugar, cornstarch and water) together in a bowl. Heat a saucepan over medium heat. Add all the sauce mixture into the pan. Stir.
3. Add the diced pork to the saucepan. Cook on low until the sauce glazes the pork. Add the reconstituted dried onion and sesame seeds and toss together to mix. Let the filling cool before proceeding.
Assembling
4. Take a dough portion, work into a round ball about 1 inch in diameter. Flatten it into a 4-inch round with a rolling pin about ¼ inch thick. Make sure the edges are half as thin as the center.
5. Place 1 heaping Tablespoon of filling into dough. Pull the sides to meet at the center, making a ruffled fold as you work. Pinch the top together and give it a twist to seal. Pinch off any extra dough at the top. Place onto a piece of waxed paper.
6. Place buns in steamer about 2 inches apart and cover with a damp cloth. Allow buns to rise in a draft-free place for about 20 minutes.
Steaming
7. Place steamer over the simmering water for 15 minutes, or until bun is well risen. Add water if necessary so that wok is not dried out.

Serves: 20 buns

Basic Yeast Dough Recipe

This is a recipe for the dough of the fluffy white skins of the char siu bao and the shanghai cabbage buns. It’s truly versatile — you can use the same dough and fill it with sweetened mashed red beans or lotus seeds for a dessert treat. Or just steam it by itself to turn it into “man tou” essentially steamed white bread that is used to soak up the wonderful sauce of Sichuanese or Hunanese dishes. If you shape the bun into a flat disc, it becomes the base for peking duck.

The dough can be allowed to rise slowly, covered, in the refrigerator for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before using. If you are not using the dough straight away, punch it down and wrap tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.

6 Tablespoons sugar
1 Tablespoons active dry yeast
1  1/4 cup  hot water
1  1/4 cup cold water

6 cups unbleached “00” or high protein bread flour plus additional for kneading
2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup canola oil

4 teaspoons baking powder, sifted

Part 1: Making and proofing the dough.
1. Proofing the yeast: Dissolve sugar in hot water. Add cold water to make a warm solution (105 – 115°F). Dissolve the yeast in the sugar solution. Stir lightly, and let stand in a warm place until mixture develops a creamy foam, about 7 minutes. (If mixture doesn’t foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)
2. Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the middle, and add yeast mixture and oil and stir to incorporate the flour until dough holds together and just come away from side of bowl. Add a little more water if needed.
3. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead. Lightly flour your hands if necessary. Knead (by using the heels of your hands and your body weight to push away from you, pull it back and fold in the sides of the dough towards the center. Turn the dough right angle every few kneads) until dough is smooth, soft, and elastic, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball.
4. Very lightly oil a large bowl, put the dough into the bowl and turn the dough so that all sides are coated. Cover the bowl tightly with a plastic wrap/damp tea cloth and let dough rise in a warm (75-80°F), draft-free place until doubled in bulk, 1-3 hours. The dough is ready when it does not spring back when poked with a finger.

Part 2: Finishing the dough – Using the dough
1. Uncover the dough, punch it down and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.
2. Flatten it and make a well in the center. Sprinkle baking powder in the well, gather up the sides and fold to the center to incorporate the baking powder. Knead lightly for a few minutes till it becomes a ball again.
3. Divide the dough into two cylinders about 1 inch thick. Cut each into 10. Make 20 1-inch ball portions. Cover dough with a damp tea cloth as you work.
4. Proceed with dumpling recipes

Note: This basic dough can be used for char siu bau steamed pork bun recipes, plain steamed man tou recipes, shanghai cabbage steamed buns, chicken steamed bun recipes.

Serves: Makes 20 pastry skins