On a cold rainy day like this, a nice hot bowl of “tong suey” warms the body like no other.  This wonderful sweet soup is relatively high in protein and has gingko nuts which is supposed to be good for you.

Chef’s tip: Tying the pandan leaves into a knot crushes the leave cells, releasing the fragrant oils of the plant.  Poaching the eggs without heat leaves the egg nice and tender.

12 cups water
1 cup pearled barley
3 pandan leaves, tied into a knot
3 sheets yuba
1 cup gingko nuts, shelled
1 cup rock sugar, to taste
2 eggs

1. Rinse pearled barley.  Add water and bring to boil.  Simmer for one hour till the “soup” is cloudy.
2. Add in  pandan leaves, yuba skin and gingko nuts and simmer another 15 minutes.
3. Remove pandan leaves,  add sugar, still till melted.
4. Remove from heat.  Break the eggs into the sweet soup, wait 20 seconds, then stir very slowly to break the yolks to form “egg flower”.
5.     Ladle the sweet soup into bowls.  Serve piping hot.

Serves: 8

Kheer is the Indian version of the universal rice pudding.  It’s the quintessential dessert item at every Indian buffet table, and the most festive of Indian desserts.  You can dress it up with some edible silver.

Here is a super, easy low maintenance recipe for the rice pudding – slow cooker aka crock pot kheer.

Chef’s tip: It’s a bitch to clean the burnt milk and rice that accumulates at the bottom of the pot, no matter how diligent you are at stirring it. (Recipe below is for slow cooker, but if you are using a stove top, the cooking times for low heat is about 1 1/4 hours).  It would take you more time to clean the pot than to cook the kheer, so I *highly* recommend using the slow cooker.  With the latter, it pretty much is a hands-off dessert, except for an occasional stir (every 30 mins or so).  The adding of the cream makes it even richer and makes up for the lack of evaporation due to the slow cooker.  I also recommend making a big pot of it, so that you will have some in the fridge to snack on for a few days!

10 cups whole milk

1 Tablespoon ghee
1/4 cup shelled pistachio meat, roughly chopped
3/4 cup + 2 Tablespoons basmati rice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
A large pinch saffron

3/4 cup sugar
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Splash of rose water or orange flower blossom water (optional)

1. Heat milk in a pot till steaming, stirring occasionally.
2. In a small saucepan, heat  1/2 Tbs ghee, add pistachios, and fry till fragrant, about 30 secs – 1 minute.  Set aside.
3. Wipe clean the pan, add remaining ghee, and roast the raw rice, another 30 seconds.  Transfer rice to a slow cooker.
4. Add hot milk and cook on high for 2 hours, stirring occasionally so that the rice and milk do not stick to the bottom of the pot.  Do not scrape the bottom of the pot so that none of the burnt parts will get stirred into the pudding.
5.  Add salt, cardamon, saffron and continue cooking till pudding is thick – about 2 more hours, leaving the pot cover slightly ajar.
6. Add sugar and cream and stir to combine.
7. Splash on rose or orange water.  Serve hot or chilled, topped with the pistachios.

Makes 12 cups.

Perhaps the most popular Asian dessert.  Sticky, chewy, sweet, salty, sour.  Truly a great texture + flavor combo.  If you can find black glutinous rice, it makes for a dramatic presentation.  And it’s so simple to make.

Chef’s tip: You would ask, why is there salt in this dessert recipe?  Salt brings out the full flavor of coconut.

Rice:
2 cups sweet glutinous rice, soaked overnight
4 pieces of pandan leaves*
2 ½ cups coconut milk
¾ cup coconut milk, reserve
¾ cup sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Fruit:
3 large ripe mangos
2 limes, zest only

Preparing the rice:
1.  Wash the rice and cover with water.  Set aside at least 6 hours to overnight.
2.  Prepare a large pot of boiling water with steamer.  Line steamer with cheesecloth.
3.  Drain rice.  Place rice evenly on the cheesecloth.   Place a knotted pandan leaves in the rice.
4.   Steam for about 20 minutes.  Test for doneness ie rice is tender and cooked through.
5.  In the meantime, combine sugar and salt with the coconut milk and bring to boil until sugar is dissolved.  Make sure you don’t over boil the mixture.
6.    When rice is done, quickly transfer to a serving bowl.  Pour the coconut mixture into rice mixture and stir.  Leave to stand 10-15 minutes.

Preparing the fruit:
7.   Peel the mango and cut the flesh into slices.
8.   Using a rind peeler or a peeler with a knife, make fine lime rinds strips.

Serving:
9.   To serve, place the fresh mango on top of a scoop of rice, drizzle the reserve coconut milk and garnish with lime strips.

Serves: 12

We always eat Tang Yuen during the winter solstice  - December 22 to be exact.  That’s the date for the Chinese family reunion dinner – similar to Thanksgiving here.  As a child, I remember helping my grandmother roll these balls.  We would of course, make them in all sort of shapes – I remember making a dice, too.

Chewy and sweet, it gives you a satisfying burst of flavor when you bite into one of these glutinous rice balls.  You can serve it with a simple syrup cooked with ginger, or in this recipe below, Shanghainese style with fermented rice wine.  Served this way, it is also supposedly a good galactogogues.  Don’t worry if you don’t know what that means, if you had needed it, then you would already know what it means!

Chef’s tip: Make a batch to freeze.  Place them on a small baking sheet, freeze.  When it is frozen, transfer to a ziplog bag.

½ lb glutinous rice flour
1 Tablespoon powdered sugar
½ cup boiling water
½ cup room temperature water

Red food coloring, optional

½ cup mashed red beans filling, from a can or prepare from scratch

8 cups water

½ cup rock sugar
½ cup dried longans
¼ cup red dates, pitted
2 eggs
1 cup store-bought jiu niang (fermented glutinous rice and wine)

Preparing the dumplings:
1.     Whisk together the rice flour with the powdered sugar.  Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring to mix.  Slowly add the room temperature water and keep mixing until the dough comes together as a ball and no longer sticks to your hand.
2.     Transfer to a lightly floured board, add food coloring and knead for 2 minutes until dough is soft, smooth and malleable.
3.     Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a ½ inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into ¾ inch pieces. Roll each piece into a ball.  Cover dough with a damp tea cloth as you work.
4.     Take a ball and flatten it into a 2 inch round, about 1/8 inch thick with a rolling pin.  Place the wrapper in your palm. Place ½ teaspoon of filling into dough.  Bring the sides together, pinch to seal and roll between your palms to create a smooth ball, making sure filling is totally concealed,
5.     Bring a large pot of water to the boil and drop in the balls. Once they float, they are cooked.  Remove and plunge into a bowl of room temperature water.
Preparing the sweet soup:
6.     Bring water, rock sugar, longans and red dates to boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off heat.  Break the eggs into the sweet soup, wait 20 seconds, then stir very slowly to break the yolks to form “egg flower”.  Add in the jiu niang and stir once.
7.     Ladle the sweet soup into bowls and ladle in the rice balls.  Serve piping hot.

Serves: 4

I was at a my friend’s baby first month party earlier this year and his mom made a Filipino cassava cake that reminded me of the Malaysian bengka ubi.  At that time, the Malay name just slipped me, and Marco keeps on calling it the Tagalog name bibingka.  When I finally recalled the Malaysian name, I was pleasantly surprised at how similar the Malay word is to its Filipino cousin!  Of course, in Malaysia, we refer the tuber with the British word, tapioca.

My grandmother used to make this steamed “kuih” for sale, and my dad taught me how to make the kuih eons ago.  I had forgotten about it until I bit into the wonderful sweet and chewy cake at David’s.  I remember peeling the tubers and grating the tapioca tubers and carefully avoiding the bitter heart that runs along the tuber.  I love the smell of fresh tapioca, and grating it leaves your hands tapioca smelling fresh all day.

Chef’s tip:  The frozen version works just as well (sans fragrant hands!).  You can find the frozen version in most Asian stores.  David’s mother glazed the top with condensed milk to give it a nice golden brown topping.

2 lbs cassava, grated or if using frozen, thawed
3/4 cup sugar or palm sugar
1 can (400 ml) about 1 2/3 cups coconut milk
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Squeeze out excess water from the cassava.  Let the strained juice sit 10 mins.  Discard top clear water and add back the settled starch to the cassava.
2. Mix together all the ingredients.  Transfer to an oiled pan.
3. Bake in 400F oven for 40  mins.
4. Place under broiler for a few minutes to brown the top.
5. Let cool before cutting.

My grandmother used to make and sell nyonya “kuih”.  I wish she was still around so that I can pick up the right skills from her!

Chef’s tip: The green is natural from the pandan leaves.  Besides adding fragrance to the cake, it gives it this beautiful green color.  Blending the leaves with a little water and then extracting the liquid is how you get pandan juice.

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups sweet glutinous rice
1 cup coconut milk
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 pieces pandan

8 pandan leaves
½ cup water

3 eggs
¾ cup coconut milk
¾ cup sugar
6 Tablespoons pandan juice (see step 5)

1 Tablespoon corn starch
1 ½ Tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 Tablespoon rice flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt

Banana leaves

Preparing the rice.
1.    Wash the rice. Add water till it covers the rice by 1 inch. Let rice soak at least 6 hours to overnight.
Cooking the rice
2.    Drain rice.  Place the rice in a cake pan lined with banana leaves.   Place in a steamer rack.
3.    Combine sugar and salt with the coconut milk.  Add to the rice.  Bury a knot of pandan leaves in the rice.  Steam for about 20 minutes.
4.    When rice is done, remove the pandan leaves.  Using a piece of banana leaves or aluminum foil, flatten the rice down to form an even compact layer.  Steam for another 10 minutes.
Preparing the pandan juice
5.    Chiffonade the pandan.  Place the pandan and water in a blender and puree.  Strain out solids.  Reserve juice.
Preparing the custard
6.    In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, coconut milk, sugar and pandan juice.  Set aside.
7.    Place the 3 different flours and salt in a bowl and whisk to mix.  Slowly add the liquid egg mixture, a little at a time, and incorporate till it is smooth and there are no more lumps.
8.    In a double boiler, heat the custard, stirring constantly till just begins to thicken.  Remove form heat.
Completing the serimuka
9.    Pour the thickened custard over the compressed and steam over low heat for another 20 minutes, or until set.
10.    Allow to cool completely before cutting.

Serves: 8

“Sesame Ball” is probably the most popular choice on the dim sum dessert tray.  Who can resists eating these crunchy on the outside, glutinous rice balls  that is filled with adzuki red bean paste.  On first bite, the ball collapses into a chewy, tasty mass full of sweet “dou sha” and nutty sesame.

You can use the same dough and cooking method and fill the pastry with other sweet bean paste such as lotus seeds paste or a peanut-sugar mix.  Or for a savory version, aka “jin dui”, you can add a mixture spiced mince pork with cilantro and water chestnut.

Chef’s tip: When making the dough, it is critical that the water is boiling hot in order to cook the starch that binds the rice flour together.  Also see Step 11 instructions on how to carefully deep fry the balls to get that perfect spherical shape.

Red bean paste:
1 cup of Adzuki red beans, soaked, drained
3/4 cup sugar or more to taste
3 pandan leaves (optional), each tied into a knot
¼ cup of canola oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Dough:
3 ½ cups glutinous rice flour
½ cup wheatstarch
2 Tablespoon sugar
1 ½ cup boiling water, and more depending on dough
3 tablespoon shortening

1 cup water
1 cup sesame seeds
6 cups canola oil

Preparing the red bean paste filling:
1.    Place the red beans in a pot with 2 pieces of the pandan.  Cover with 2 inches of water over the beans and simmer 1-1 ½ hours till beans have softened.  Add more water if needed.  Drain.
2.    Pass the beans through a food mill or place into a food processor.
3.    In a non stick pan, heat oil, add sugar and the pureed beans and 1 pandan leave tied into a knot.
4.    Constantly stir the paste. Cook for 10 minutes until the bean paste is dry.  Cool.
Preparing the dough:
5.    Combine the glutinous rice flour, wheat starch and sugar.   Form a well in the center. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring until a ball forms.  Add more hot water if needed,
6.    Cool a little, while still warm, knead in the shortening, a little at a time.  Transfer to a lightly floured board and knead for a few minutes until soft and smooth.
7.    Divide the dough into 2 balls. Roll each piece of dough into a 1 ½ inch cylinder.  Cut each cylinder into 12 pieces, and roll into a ball — making a total of 24 balls.  Cover as you work.
Assembly:
8.    Take a piece of dough, flatten it.  Add 1 teaspoon of the red bean paste mixture. Gently pack the filling down. Gather the edges of the dough over the filling and squeeze together the edges of the dough pressing to seal securely. Roll between palms to form a ball.
9.    Place water and sesame seeds in separate breading pans.
10.    Dip a ball into the water (this will help the sesame seeds stick to the ball) to moisten the ball.  Then roll the ball over the sesame seeds.  Place on a baking sheet.  Repeat the process with the remainder of the balls.
Frying  the balls:
11.    Heat  canola oil over medium-high heat until 330F.  Drop several sesame balls into the oil and fry till golden brown, about 7 minutes each.  As the balls float to the surface (2 minutes), begin to press them gently with the back of a metal spatula against the sides of the pot. The balls will expand as they are gently rotated and pressed. Fry until golden brown, or when they have expanded 3x their size.  Immediately drain on a wire rack over a baking sheet.
12.    Serve immediately.

Serves: 24 portions

This madeleine recipe is from my friend, Diane Quan, who is a very talented pastry chef.  Months ago, I tried my hand at madeleines – all the recipes I found were too complicated…one asked to leave the batter overnight in a refrigerator which resulted in the butter floating up and solidifying!  I even tried dusting off my very little knowledge of French and used a recipe book I picked up in Nice.  Tout ne success pas.  (I really think it was my rusty French not the recipe!  So much for remembrance of things past!)  Finally, I asked Diane to show me how, and she generously shared the recipe for this tender, yet moist cookie.  It has been a breeze ever since.

I have adapted the recipe to fool-proofed it for my own sake.  I have adjusted it to my taste (yes, less sweet) and converted the measurements to grams for precision …thanks to my digital scale (a must have for any who wants to bake).  I prefer to weigh my ingredients when it comes to baking rather than to rely on cup measurements.  Cake flour, for example, as it compacts easily, asks you to sift the flour prior to measuring, so with weighing, you eliminate any discrepancies.  It is very important to stick to the type of flour specified because of the gluten content.  It will determine how tender your madeleines will be.  If you ever want to learn more about flour types and why, or any science related to food, get the Harold McGee bible On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen.

Chef’s tip: Butter, egg must be at room temperature to ensure a fluffy and light dough.  Also, use the silver madeleine pans (not the nonstick ones) for better heat distribution.   Just butter it with room temperature butter generously with your fingers, then sift in flour, tap it over the sink and voila, you will have a nonstick pan!  Amazon carries very good tin-sheet madeleine pans at a good price.  

6 oz unsalted butter, room temperature
140 g sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
95g cake flour
35g all purpose flour
2 “AA” eggs, room temperature
Zest of 1 orange, meyer lemon or tangelo
1 teaspoon cardamom, finely ground

2 Tablespoons butter for greasing the pans
Some flour

Preheat oven 350F
1.    Beat butter and sugar till very light.  Add vanilla.  Beat to incorporate.
2.    Sift together the flours.
3.    Beat in the flour in 2 batches, alternating with egg, into the butter mixture.
4.    Fold in orange zest and cardamom
5.    Grease 2 madeleine sheets (shiny ones)  well with butter.  Dust with flour and shake out excess flour.
6.    Using the help of an additional spoon, drop in 1 heaping tablespoon of the batter into the madeleine moulds – to fill about ¾ full.  Smooth out any peaks.
7.    Bake for 15 minutes or until the edges are browned.  Turn out onto a cookie rack to cool.
8.    Dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Makes: 24

Instead of heavy cream, you can substitute with coconut milk to give it a more tropical flavor.  Add more cream or water for a softer pudding.

Chef’s tip: It is very important to sprinkle the gelatin in, at at room temperature liquids. Let it sit to soften, otherwise you will get lumps of gelatin

Ingredients:
Filling
3 ripe large mangoes, pureed to make 3 cups puree, and 1 cup roughly chopped pulp
2½ cups water
1¼ cup fine granulated sugar
6 packets unflavored gelatin powder
3 cups heavy whipping cream (or evaporated milk or coconut milk)

1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 Tablespoon powdered sugar
1 ripe mango, peeled, thinly sliced horizontally

20 half-cup ramekins

Preparing the custard
1.    Peel and slice mangoes.  Chop the mango in a blender until the size of peas.  Remove one cup of the mango pulp and set aside.   Puree the remaining mangoes until smooth to make 3 cups.  Pass the puree through a sieve.
2.    Sprinkle gelatin over room temperature water in small saucepan; let stand 1 minute. Turn on the heat and cook on low heat about 3 minutes or until gelatin is completely dissolved, stirring occasionally. Add sugar and stir till sugar is completely dissolved, about 1 minute.
3.    Whisk in mango puree and heavy whipping cream or evaporated milk and whisk till smooth.  Fold in the reserved chopped cup of mango pulp.
4.    Pour into prepared wet ramekins, and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours or overnight.
5.    To make the whipped cream, pour the cream and sugar into a bowl. Whip cream till soft peaks form.
6.    To serve, layer some sliced mangoes on top of the pudding, and top with a dollop of whipped cream (or drizzle on some evaporated milk or coconut milk)

Serves: 20